Outdoor Computer Cases? 192
danci asks: "I'm building a wireless network in a local community using Wavelan/IEEE cards. I'd like to avoid purchasing Wavelan access point so I'll try to use Linux instead. So I'd like to build some rather small but robust machines that should be able to survive summer, winter, snow, rain and most other weather conditions while being mounted on the antenna mast (or at least as near as possible - cable length heavily decreases range).
So I guess what I wanna know is whether there are any weather proof, computer (PC) cases available out there. Or some other, low-cost solution (don't want to build a house around all that)." This would be too cool. Just imagine, a series of computers mounted to telephone poles with wireless network cards...
Marine computers (Score:1)
Out door cases.. this practical? (Score:1)
Use cases for other applications (Score:3)
http://www.tisch-env.com/pq200.html
People have already a put a lot of effort into building weather-proof, battery- and solar-powered cases which can hang on telephone poles for applications such as environmental monitoring. They hang them along highways (some of them have a hook on top to hang from a telephone pole and come with a big forked stick to facilitate getting them down from the pole), then you come back in a month to check what sort of pollution is being produced. Don't reinvent the wheel here, talk to one of those companies and see about getting some cases, maybe with power supplies included but without the environmental equipment.
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Michael Sims-michael at slashdot.org
cool, but (Score:2)
And a nice pick for any passing burglar
It would be way-cool, but then why not use the telephone wires...?
Re:Marine computers (Score:1)
duh (Score:1)
Dolch (Score:1)
www.dolch.com
Ok Macgyver... (Score:2)
You're asking for a lot... Not only do you want to bring a PC outside, you want to mount it on an antenna mast? It's a lightning magnet. Even without lightning strikes, you're dealing with a lot of static electricity. If that doesn't kill your PC, chances are the variances in temperature and humidity would.
Having said that, it still sounds cool.
I have to wonder though, if your only concern is cable length, why don't you just install a signal repeater or cable driver of some kind outside and bring the PC indoors somewhere?
A cable driver is a lot less expensive than a PC... =)
Air circulation (Score:1)
That would be bad if you spent all the money on sealing a case only to have the processor burn up on you in the summer heat.
Re:Marine computers (Score:1)
heat? (Score:1)
Re:Marine computers (Score:2)
//rdj
Re:Ok Macgyver... (Score:2)
The length of the cable in question has a direct relationship to how well a signal can be recieved by the tranciever assembly.
Untill that signal is picked up there can not be any use of signal repeaters.
also a signal repeater will
1) slow down the data rate (not much but some)
2) introduce more noise in the signal for each repeater used.
CASE I found on dogpile.com (Score:1)
There are some PC/104 things that might suit (Score:1)
I looked at these with the idea of setting one up by my pool so as to have music, but the cost for non-mass-market stuff like this tends to be prohibitive. It's also not clear that you can get a PC/104 format wireless ethernet board.
Grant Taylor [picante.com]
Embedded computing, amateur radio, etc. (Score:2)
- Embedded Computing [embedded.com]
- ARRL [arrl.org]
- RAC [www.rac.ca]
...those are just some starting points. Embedded computing applications have the hardware designed for rugged environments, and amateur radio is a handy technical resource for do-it-yourself electronics. Remote relay stations are the norm, not to mention other extremes [amsat.org].
Search engines are your friends, particularly Google [google.com].
de VE3SLG
How about embedded applications... (Score:3)
Since we're talking about a wireless network you're probably not going to get off cheap but you can almost certainly manage to produce something stable and with a long up-time that's affordable.
TEMPERATURE will get you. (Score:2)
No desktop type components are going to handle outdoor temperatures in any but the most mild climates (read, SEATTLE). Working with pole-mounted equipment design myself, I was surprised to find that even military-grade components may not be up to the task.
You'll at least need mil-spec components for the harsh environment you're describing.
Ruggedized PCs. (Score:2)
Problems you'll run into are weather fluctuations (hot in the summer, cold in the winter), humidity/condensate, direct sunlight does nasty things to some plastics, birds, squirrels (and other rodents) like to chew on cables, the list goes on and on.
And just a thought to keep in mind as you work on this... Lightning strikes really, really suck. Especially if what gets hit is hooked to your home network with a cable. And even more so if it's plugged into the same electrical circuit as your other household electronics.
Should look into Military Stuff (Score:2)
Some questions about the application (Score:5)
My point: GHz RF has high losses in cables, but typical data rates have much more managable losses. If you can split the RF sections from the rest of the system, you can still put the electronics in a temperature-controlled environment while keeping the antenna cable short. (This assumes that the RF section will function under temperature extremes, which it may not. Test things in an environment chamber before you rely on them.)
I'm not familiar with Wavelan cards, but I'm going to make a guess here that they have both the digital and the RF sections on a single internal bus card and you don't have the option of splitting the system. In this case I would examine better transmission lines. One old technology I'm aware of is Goubeau line (I think that spelling is correct, Georg Goubeau is listed as being on the faculty at the University of Jena in Germany, specializing in the generation and propagation of EM waves). Goubeau line uses a pair of "launchers" to take a signal propagating on a coaxial cable and allow it to travel in the neighborhood of a bare wire; this nearly eliminates dielectric losses. While you'd need coax for any runs indoors, you could use Goubeau line to go from the outside wall wall to the top of your mast. I'd suggest using a flexible standoff/tensioner on the mast to keep the wire taut, and avoid the use of spacers. If you have a tower, I'd try running the line right up the middle.
Niggling issues like dealing with icing always rear their ugly heads. You may wish to design your antenna so that it is always at DC ground and have a big honking transformer to throw some low-voltage AC up and down your wire. This would let you melt ice and snow off it. If the Wavelan card provides signal-quality reporting you could even have your computer operate the heater as needed.
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Re:Ok Macgyver... (Score:1)
HOWEVER, I'm not suggesting one take a desktop PC and strap it to the mast. What you need is an industrial computer -- computers designed for environments where humans could not survive (for long.) Those things are not cheap.
The best (cheapest) bet is single board computer (SBC.) Maybe even one of the "computer on a SIMM" creatures assuming you can attach the wavelan to it, etc.
Try a laptop... (Score:1)
Second, the best 'cheap' solution would be to use a laptop computer put in a multi-layer box (multiple layer will give you better insulation). You have to find a way to let the air flow at a good rate while keeping dust, water, snow, etc outside.
Why the latop is a good 'cheap' solution, they are made to sustain high temperature change (at least when they are off), they can systain a certain amount of humidity and they are designed to consume less power and release less heat.
I hate to point this out (Score:1)
I have a better idea... (Score:1)
I've used these things before and they work great. I bridged the ethernet between two buildings 4miles apart at 1Mb/s -- of course there was a long range directional antenna at both ends.
I dont know about Wavelan... (Score:2)
two words (Score:3)
There are lots of factors to consider (Score:5)
Look into the D38999 series of mil-spec connectors for bringing connections out of the box.
http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/DEFAULT.HTM
Don't forget to chose your components wisely. Get industrial temperature range (-40 to 80C) components where possible, and especially if you intend to use a traditional hard drive. A flash drive is better if you can afford it. Spinning up a mechanical drive when it is too cold can destroy it.
Finally, put some thought into heat dissapation. For outdoor applications it is best to have a sealed box, which means no cooling fans. If you can, choose a low power consumption motherboard. (say a recent 486 class machine.) By all means, get a case that has large cooling fins on it, as that is the ONLY way that you'll ever get heat out of the box.
Good luck.
Industrial PC's (Score:4)
Operating Temperature: 0 to 50 degrees C (32 to 122 deg. F)
Non-operating Temperature: 0 to 60 degrees C (32 to 140 deg. F)
Shipping Temperature: -40 to 60 degrees C (-40 to 140 deg. F)
Relative Humidity: 5 to 95% non-condensing
Wet Bulb: 29.4 degrees C (85 deg. F)
Altitude (operating): 0 to 7000 feet (0 to 2134 meters)
(non-operating): 0 to 15000 feet (0 to 4575 meters)
Electrical - 100-125VAC and 200-245VAC switchable
BTU Output (as-shipped): 200 BTU/hour
(maximum config.): 1417 BTU/hour)
Shock: 30G, 3ms duration
Vibration: 0.67G RMS random from 5Hz to 500Hz
Particulate Protection: Dust and dripping water resistant -
We used to use a similar types of machines as data collection units for slot machines. The PC's ran 24/7, year in and year out, in poorly ventilated cabinets in an incredibly dusty and dirty area--no moisture to deal with though... Very reliable. The question is will the machine generate enough BTU's (in the spec) to keep it warm during the winter...and will it stay cool enough during the summer.
Visit Home Depot Or Any Electrical Supply Store (Score:2)
Get an external electrical box. You know, the kind you'd hang on the outside of your house. They are waterproof and have all the cable ins and outs that you would ever need. Since they are sold in high-volume, they are less expensive than something built to milspec or specifically designed for computers.
Of course, the electrical boxes probably won't hold a generic PC without a bit of modification. Since the box will be headless and without floppy drives, keyboard, etc., you're probably better off just mounting the motherboard in the unit on its own.
That said, your greatest concern is going to be lightening, not water. If you wire the boxes with copper, you're making it an easy run from the mast to the wiring closet. For external applications, you *MUST* use fiber as it does not conduct electricity. (This, of couse, assumes that you don't want to fry your networking hardware. If you're okay with that, copper works great and is less expensive.)
InitZero
Check out Sky Computers. (Score:2)
Sky Rugged Computers [sky.com]
You may want ot just give them a call and see what they do?
Anyways, sweet machines.....
Outdoor cases (Score:5)
I think I can help you.
I'm currently working on an outdoor pc system designed to basically work in man holes (15 feet fully submersible for prolonged periods, dust/water proof). What you need (and this is only one solution, but it is cheap) is a single board computer, power supply, NEMA 4 rated enclosure, and applicable glands to bring the wires out. Basically you mount everything inside your box (generally made from fiberglass, aluminum or some type of plastic), install the glands (watertight cable feed throughs), and mount this baby.
JumpTec [jumptec.com] has some of the systems you could use, and more importantly has an IDE flash disk that makes all this easy to do without a hard disk. Also Win Systems [winsystems.com] is a pretty popular place to get PC/104 embedded systems.
As for the case, Hoffman [hoffmanonline.com] has all the enclosures you could ever need (unless you're working in man holes).
Some people have recomended Dolche, but I'd avoid them as they are way expensive. More useful for interactive systems.
good luck
Easy Solution! (And a commercial solution too!) (Score:1)
Re:just wondering... (Score:1)
However, if the base station computer was inside and had an Ethernet adapter (10base2 would be best, but 10baseT would work too), then a wireless Ethernet bridge could be mounted on the pole with a cable running to the inside.
NEMA enclosures (Score:5)
Parvus has several [parvus.com] for the PC/104 [controlled.com] size, as does Tri-M [emjembedded.com]. Digital has some [digital.com] for their products.
There are plenty of generic NEMA enclosures available, up to walk-in size.
Remember you may need a heater or cooler. There are standalone devices, although I also have seen one PC/104 card with thermostats [rtdusa.com].
Re:Ok Macgyver... (Score:2)
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Tupperware (Score:1)
Why an "enclosure"? (Score:2)
Maybe you need to think of something other than an "enclosure". What you want is a box that keeps the elements off your computer. Something like a very small shed with a pitched roof.
I would suggest a small dog house would be about the right size, and relatively cheap too. There are some very cheap plastic ones on the market but they'd be harder to modify to make secure. Something like this [blythewoodworks.com] might be good, and fairly attractive. Just get a piece of plywood and screw it down over the door. The main problem is that these are rather large, although this offers room for a UPS and a circuit breaker box.
Of course, if you are planning on putting these on roofts or utility poles, this might be a little big and kind of ugly. Perhaps a large bird house [blythewoodworks.com]. Take a martin house, plug up all the holes, and use a sawzall to cut out the internal dividers. If you can scavenge used laptops or use something like a netwinder you can get down to a regular sized birdhouse. These would have the advantage of not being an eyesore. I would take some silicone caulk to the joints, however.
Wavelan Access point - Apple Airport (Score:1)
Anyway the Wavelan cards should be in soon. Email me with your address and I'll let you know the status of my tests with the Wavlan cards.
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Re:Marine computers (Score:1)
I would also guess that marinized computers wouldn't fit the bill from a size and feature perspective either. If you're going to be putting something up on a pole you'll want it reasonably small. Most of the marinized systems I've seen are roughly the size of the old Compaq luggable (oops, I've dated myself.)
I would expect a single board computer with a PCI adapter slot would be a better solution. You should be able to be readily mount this in a much smaller water proof container.
The next issue to resolve would be the heat dispersion. Since you'll have no air circulation you'll have serious heat buildup problems.
Oh yes, I forgot... (Score:2)
Start with the Housing Code in your area (Score:1)
I would start by visiting my local planning office to see what sort of weather you can expect in your area. How much rain, snow, how hot, how cold and how long for each extreme.
Then I would go to a building store and see what materials are there. For a computer case size object, its really cheap. In fact I would ask one of the guys there, since they would have a good idea of the weather extremes.
Next I would worry about fan exhausts, power supply, lighting and animals making new homes.
Underclock a fast CPU? (Score:2)
You might have to go with the "little house" concept: put an otherwise normal PC inside an outdoor enclosure made for that purpose. I'm thinking of the kind that they use for cellular equipment [electrorack.com]. But that ain't going to be cheap.
-B
Just get Wavelan access points (Score:3)
If you're doing something that's non-profit (or otherwise capable of generating good PR for Lucent), give them a call and see if you can get a discount.
Otherwise, you're going to end up spending more money in the long-term on maintainence and replacement (like someone said, PCs on a phone pole would be a tempting theft target) that you would on the more expensive equipment.
Re:CASE I found on dogpile.com (Score:1)
Accually I own four of them for my cameras, and yes, they are as good as they claim.
Why not waveguide? (Score:2)
Putting a computer on the mast is not a great idea. Although it can be done, it costs quite a bit for a reliable solution.
Depending on the frequency that the wavelan cards use, you can use something the microwave industry has used for decades: Waveguide. Basically a small duct with a transducer on one end that passes the signal through the waveguide on a shielded path. The waveguide is usually sized to the frequency of the transducer. Check some of the microwave ham radio pages out there. Waveguide is usually used in the 10ghz+ spectrum.
Another approach is to use a mast mounted amplifier and pre-amplifier and use a short run of 50 ohm hardline. This is what a lot of ham radio users use for high performance antenna arrays in the uhf and microwave spectrum. Basically, you keep your computer in your home, and run a length of hardline to the mast mounted amp/preamp. The signal losses incurred by the cable are overrun by the mast mounted goodies. By doing this, you can mount your antenna directly to the amp/preamp and have no loss.
Hope this helps!!runlevel0 has been reached...
Some Suggestions... (Score:3)
The cases (er cabinets) we buy are pretty darn rugged (i.e. waterproof, very heat resistant, pretty resistant to shock, etc).
Now keep in mind, all external openings (for cords and etc) need to be tapped and all internal components need to be mounted in some way.
Well here's a plug for the people we buy from:
Contact information
Stahlin Fiberglass (a Division of ROBROY Industries)
Belding Division
Belding, Michigan 48809
Phone (616)794-0700
However, that's just for a PC... I hadn't even considered a monitor. If you're expecting to put in a monitor and stuff like that... it gets a lot more expensive and difficult... now what you're talking is purchasing industrial grade PCs...
Now you might be talking purchasing something from Xycom Automation [xycom.com]. But, most of these are also flat/touchscreens ($$cha-ching$$) and once again come preloaded with DOS/95/NT. I don't know about Linux drivers for those... However if you look around enough you will find a lot of machinery does run with some form of *NIX (to avoid the reliability problems of MS)
Well, that's about the best I can do for you...
Re:Birdhouse (Score:2)
/peter
cases-cases (Score:3)
We use the Super Duty laptop cases sold by cases-cases [cases-cases.com] to lug around our laptops in a marine environment. They definately hold up to abuse, and are comletely air/water tight.
This would be more of a "you like, uhh, put your PC into this box thing" kind of a solution, and it will probably be a little bulky. You would still have to look at temperature, and lightning problems (plastic case tho, so it might be ok).
Try food processing systems (Score:1)
Four years ago I worked for a major poultry producer and one of my projects was putting in case scaling and labeling systems in the plants. Instead of the expensive PLC based systems that everyone else pitched to us, our vendor had developed PC LAN based systems that were faster, cheaper, and more flexible. The trick was to use cheap PCs inside moderately expensive stainless steel (or in some cases fiberglass) boxes. There are established standards and components for these systems (the namees of which I cannot remember this morning) and you can get a lot of the pieces off the shelf. The external connectors were MILSPEC Amphenol type, and the monitor (when we needed it) was inside the box and visible through a sealed plexiglas window. The boxes had thick rubber seals and big stainless steel clips to keep them closed. They were not too small, so the air could circulate some, and the environment these were kept in varied from 27 to 40 degrees F.
One of the neater components was the Dragon keyboard that was first developed for artillery control units - its a keyboard with a very thin sheet of flexible stainless steel over it which you press the keys through. Not something to code with all day . . .
One word: (Score:2)
I use it whenever I don't have a case handy. Only problem is ventilation on those air tight burp-seal tops.
Re:Birdhouse (Score:2)
As far as birds are concerned, I finished a loft over my garage to use as a computer room but didn't adequately seal the ventilation holes in my soffits. I got a family of starlings nesting in my insulation. The Dad found a way into my loft one day and shitted all over my keyboards, monitors and computers. I sealed up the inside hole, and would have let them stay, but after consulting with the local audobon, I learned that they would attract insects. I waited until I didn't hear the babies any more, and sealed the hole up and destoyed the nest.
Unfortunately, the birds had had another brood and I discovered five chicks after I boarded up the hole and I had to drown them. Five starling chicks are no great loss to the world, but on the whole I'd have rather lived with the insects.
I guess this is not entirely off topic, because if you put a computer outside, you'll have to provide ventilation, and if you provide anything with a hole of 3/4 of an inch or larger that is not coverd with a well secured metal mesh, you will get bats and birds nesting. Insects shouldn't be too much of a problem if you keep a fine mesh over the holes and don't allow the wood to rot.
Farrade cage (Score:1)
Ok, you mentioned it, what is it, & where can I find more information?
I did a search on Google, but it didn't come up with anything.
Just from the context of the post I have an idea of what it might be, but I want to know for sure.
Ideas (Score:2)
Get a sealed plastic case. Computer intended or not. If it isn't specifically for computers get it bigger than you need, and rig some shock absorbing pieces in. An idea I've seen is some military field computers have pieces of rubber in the 8 corners.
Cut holes that are just barely big enough to let necesary(and only necasary) cables through. Seal them up with that clearish rubbery stuff(can't remember what its called). Electrical tape might work, but I wouldn't rely on it.
Lightning is a big potential problem. Unless you have a lightning rod with a superconucting cable, lightning will kill your computer. Make sure the antenna has a ground attached, preferably above the cable connect, using the lowest resistance cable you can afford. This may cause the lightning to travel down that rather than into your computer. Still, find out the maximum jolt your computer can take, and get a fuse that blows out somewhere between 80% and 90% of that. You will still lose connectivity, but rather than having to replace the whole computer you will just have to replace the fuse.
Everyone thinks cooling would be difficult. Not really. You may want to look into a water based cooling system. They can keep your CPU extremely cold. Condensation can be a problem though, be careful about that. And don't screw up putting it together. The result of a mistake setting up a computers water cooler is obvious. Another option is setting up a big fan and ducting air in through plastic or rubber tubes, or even PVC pipes. HAve a top one that blows cool air in and a fan in the bottom that sucks hot air out. Through ducting you can keep the case cooled and airtight/watertight. The hard drive could be a problem. Bad things can happen at low temperatures trying to get a motor running. Primarily, get the drive with the greatest temperature tolerance you can afford. And among your options there, get the one with the best g-force tolerance you can find. No matter what this thing will be taking some shocks especially in a storm. Turning off all powersave options, or at least the ones that relate to the hard drive, may help keep the hard drive from getting too cold.
All in all an ambitious project... but certainly feasible.
Re:speaking of Wavelan... (Score:2)
Check out the Wireless Lan HOWTO at : linux.grmbl.be/wlan/ [grmbl.be]
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Heat problems.... (Score:1)
One Word: LNA (Score:2)
SCADA Systems... (Score:2)
While these puppies can't be cheap, there must be a mass-market (or close to mass) considering that the cable companies and power companies need these.
And, hey, my experiences were 20 years ago.
These cabinets would've been big enough to handle PCs, BTW, though I'd worry about heat distribution (you're not gonna want to use a P-III, Athlon, Alpha or whatnot...).
Of course, you could go into business building these puppies in such a way that the CPU heat-sinks directly to the case...
Faraday cage (Score:2)
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Outdoor Computer Cases? (Score:2)
A low-tech solution (Score:1)
My (scuba) diving club has given up on "waterproof" electrical hardware (we're talking radios, GPSs, etc) for use on our inflatables because most of it just isn't. Instead, we now buy non-waterproof gear and keep it in sealed (big plastic clamp, nothing wimpy) transparent bags.
My point is that you can probably make it waterproof fairly simply after you've packaged it all up - you don't necessarily need the case to be environment-proof.
The "bag" idea also means it's easier to replace damaged housings; they'll get broken whatever they're made of.
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Tim.
Submerging the computer in mineral spirits? (Score:2)
I don't knwo what this would do for other environmental issues like cold or moisture.
I have no idea if this would work, but I thought it might be helpful, and it shouldn't be too expensive.
Jon
Re:How about embedded applications... (Score:2)
http://slashdot.org/articles/99/07/31/1654210.s
and my favorite:
http://wearables.stanford.edu/
(Pardon me for not making them links - I'm hadicapped at work [drum roll] I use Microsoft.)
Bullshtuff, just do it. (Score:2)
As for modern equipment, a lightly loaded AMD k6-2 with a heat sink will probably do the job forever; just don't build any kernels on the damn thing during a heat wave.
Re:One Word: LNA (Score:2)
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Re:cool, but (Score:2)
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Conductive Heaters (Score:2)
As for casings, RS Components sell rated-seal enclosures for (fairly) reasonable prices, but at least you get a warranty for any leaks
otc: Wouldn't you be better off using line of sight optical networking? - is that possible?
Re:Farrade cage (Score:1)
Possible Product... (Score:1)
Simple: use NEMA 4 cases (Score:2)
Note: you have to be concerned about heat, since if you add a fan hole you are no longer watertight. Use low-power parts and you are probably fine. One nice aspect of keeping the inside a littel warmer is that you limit condensation inside. Use light colored boxes (or better, unpainted silver) to reflect as much sunlight as you can to limit heat in the summer. It's smart to put a 1/4 pound bag of dessicant inside too - eats up moisture that you do not want condensing out on your PC.
Note: you are going to have issues with getting space on poles. Talk to the power and phone utily first - they may donate space, but there are rules about how the box can get mounted - you have to honor the "climb space" so that repair guys can work, etc.
Note: use silicon goop around your antenna through-hole - even if you use good rubber gaskets. The gaskets never hold, and the silicon goop is good insurance. Plan on inspecting yearly and replacing the outside goop layer... it deteriorates in the sun and heat.
Best of luck! Write me if you need more info.
Re:Farrade cage (Score:2)
Have you ever heard that the best place to be
during an electrical storm is your car (assuming
its not fiberglass)?
Basically the idea is that electricity travels
around the outside surface of a structure. (at
least static electrictiy does or AC with REALLY
HIGH frequency). So...
If you have a large metal box around something..
and you ground th ebox...then lightning can strike
the box and ground out...and never have any effect
on the inside of the box.
I have seen a person inside a metal cage rub their
hand along the inside of the ALL METAL bars while
it was being struck by lightning from a huge
Van DeGraff generator (the original Van DeGraff
actually).
The Faraday Cage also inhibits all electrical
signals. It is the reason that computer cases are
shielded...its a small faraday's cage to keep
RF inside the box.
Remember "The Jar" from Enemy of the State?
Faradays Cage
An interesting note...on the Van deGraff generator
at the Museam of Science in Boston, Van De Graff
himself had his office INSIDE one of the
discharge globes at one point. Since Static
electricity gathers on the outside of the globe
being inside is perfectly safe.
Re:CASE I found on dogpile.com (Score:1)
The site doesn't say whether or not it's helluva tough.
Re:Ok Macgyver... (Score:1)
Alternate solution (Score:2)
The AirPort is cheap ($299), encased in plastic already, is in reality just a WaveLAN IEEE card with 56K modem and 10^T ports, acts as a DHCP server and NATting bridge, and is SNMP configurable/monitorable. And it has a small footprint and comes with mounting hardware.
I'm currently working on figuring out how to reprovision one of these things using only SNMP calls, so I can code up a quick app under Linux to do the job (it currently can only be provisioned using a Mac and their provided software).
With WaveLAN Gold cards (128-bit encrypted streams, 11MBit) selling for $200 these days, it's an attractive solution.
Re:How about embedded applications... (Score:1)
So do I ... what's the problem? Here are your darn Slashdot [slashdot.org] and Stanford [stanford.edu] links.
(Mutter, mutter, young people today don't know their HTML tags, or what?)
Regards, Ralph.
underwater laptops (Score:1)
Small weatherproof computer (Score:2)
http://www.uclinux.org/simm/
It could run off rechargables, and have a really small power supply to connect to the grid (or even a small solar array would be more than enough to keep a set of rechargables topped off for a few days of cloudy operation).
Oh yeah, it runs Linux. Although it is very limited, at 8M RAM, it may be all you need. The only problem you need to solve is getting wireless to work with the board (maybe some of those unused I/O pins?).
Something that small could be totally encased in polycarbonate - that would eliminate any worry about condensation. Imagine the whole thing, solar panel on top, circuitry on the bottom, encased in a solid block of polycarbonate! Wonder what the MTBF of that puppy would be?
(guess the rechargables would have to be external, unless they come up with the NiEternity battery)..
Look at a bank. (Score:1)
WaveLan in Practice (Score:1)
In the white paper on the WaveLan site they mention that Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh is actually implementing a WaveLan system across their campus. I'd talk to them before you do anything. Anyone from CMU's IT department care to comment?
WaveLan white paper [wavelan.com]
Aetius
re: Industrial PCs (Score:1)
http://www.cutler-computer.com/xtralite.htm
Now, if we can just boot Linux on it...so much for the Visor!
D'oh! My next computer!
mips? (Score:1)
Just a thought
Re:underwater laptops (Score:1)
Mobile Outdoor Computer (Score:1)
look this !
www.cycomm.com
its very interressting !
more big than usual laptop computer, but, interresting
Amazonas
NEMA Enclosures (Score:1)
Think of the Overclocking possibilities.... (Score:1)
Of course this doesn't work if you live in a hot country [jealously vibes]... grrr..
Re:Almost... (Score:1)
I myself thought of submerging my computer in liquid nitrogen
(which I have plentiful access to) for OC'ing. Please let me know of
any potential problems.
Cases (Score:1)
wireless computers & linux (Score:1)
the routers are embedded linux systems running all off a boot e-prom and loading OS over wireless, keeping the rest in cache/ram.
The south-east where I was starting this wasn't quite ready for it, so the company is gone now and I'm in San Francisco. However if anyone is serious about doing something with wireless & linux please feel free to get in touch with me and I'll pass you onto the vendors.
btw the linux router is something you have to assemble yourself. So get your eprom burners out & figure out how to get a NFS mount via serial connection and boot kernel only! :)
WaveAccess (Score:1)
Wireless ideas (Score:1)
Re:underwater laptops (Score:1)
and lets talk waterproofed wearable PC, with HMD display (brings to mind ideas for displaying it on the lens of the goggles.) and a waterproofed chording keyboard. then you would have the same manuverability, and the coordination problem should be moot, as the chording keyboard is one handed, and has a strap that attaches it firmly to the hand.
Re:Ok Macgyver... (Score:2)
Yes, you have a problem with the antenna.. but that's what lightning arrestors are for!
Enclosures (Score:2)
The only real reason for an Access Point is that it can handle multiple radio domains, so as to releive congestion if you have many remote stations in the same area. (if you simply use the pc cards to do it, it will work fine, but all share the same channel.)
Outdoor Computer Cases (Score:1)
http://www.adspower.com/
(800) 443-4742 ask for Keith Dykes, tell him Darren sent ya!
-DF
Re:No Access Point? (Score:1)
Watch out for dew and direct sunlight (Score:2)
"Dripping water" resistant doesn't mean crap. You can probably claim most any indoor AT case is "dripping water resistant."
Also be careful about the temperatures. Granted, if it's up 24/7 you *probably* won't have to worry about it getting too cold, but if the temperatures inside your computer case at home tend to climb to 100+ degF, just think what it'll get to sitting in the hot sun.
I haven't read anything about these, but it seems like they're more appropriate for indoor/climate-controlled industrial use, not for outdoor use.
Re:How about embedded applications... (Score:2)
Re:underwater laptops (Score:2)
palm pilot. It would make a good dive computer,
and there are all kinds of applications in environmental and wildlife research. Hey divers,
has any of the camera housing mfgr's made one yet?
Re:One Word: LNA (Score:2)
--
Re:Farrade cage (Score:2)
> Like charges repell. As such, the electrons will
> move as far away from each other as possible.
> That means they end up on the outer most surface > of the cage.
Yes but...if it is truely not grounded (In the
case of lightning...everything is grounded...
afterall...it can make its own ground connection
;) )
Then the static would build up on it...and the
next person to come close enough to it that the
air between them and it is negligable...would get
the hit.
I supose it owuld make a nice security system.
Touch the box...die.