


Heat Pumps Are Now Outselling Gas Furnaces In America (cleantechnica.com) 155
CleanTechnicareports that last year Americans "bought 37% more air source heat pumps than the next most popular heating appliance — gas furnaces."
And Americans bought 21% more heat pumps than they did in 2023. Canary Media is quick to point out that in many homes, more than one heat pump is required, so that data should be interpreted with that in mind. Typically, a home uses only one furnace. Nevertheless, the trend for heat pumps is up. Russell Unger, the head of decarbonizing buildings at RMI, said, "There's just been this long term, consistent trend."
It's easy to understand why heat pumps are gaining in popularity. In addition to providing heated air in the winter and cool air in the summer, they are far more efficient than conventional heat sources — delivering three to four times more heat per dollar spent than oil- or gas-fired heating equipment or old fashioned electric baseboard heat. They also create far less carbon pollution. How much less depends on the source of electricity in the local area,
Thanks to long-time Slashdot reader AmiMoJo for sharing the news.
And Americans bought 21% more heat pumps than they did in 2023. Canary Media is quick to point out that in many homes, more than one heat pump is required, so that data should be interpreted with that in mind. Typically, a home uses only one furnace. Nevertheless, the trend for heat pumps is up. Russell Unger, the head of decarbonizing buildings at RMI, said, "There's just been this long term, consistent trend."
It's easy to understand why heat pumps are gaining in popularity. In addition to providing heated air in the winter and cool air in the summer, they are far more efficient than conventional heat sources — delivering three to four times more heat per dollar spent than oil- or gas-fired heating equipment or old fashioned electric baseboard heat. They also create far less carbon pollution. How much less depends on the source of electricity in the local area,
Thanks to long-time Slashdot reader AmiMoJo for sharing the news.
Sometimes not that good (Score:2, Informative)
Heatpumps are a great way to heat/cool houses in temperate climates but when you start getting extremes then you have to be very careful about the type of unit you install.
With simple air-sink heatpumps that have an air cooled/warmed radiator outside in the environment there are limits to their effectiveness in very cold temperatures -- as many people in the UK discovered to their cost during a recent cold-snap that saw temperatures fall to as much as -20 deg C. The effeciency of a gas furnace remains co
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
Heat pumps are very popular in places like Norway, which has an extreme climate. Part of it is in the Arctic Circle.
These days they work fine well below -20C.
The main thing is just getting used to how they are different to gas boilers/furnaces for heating. You tend to just set the desired temperature and leave them on, rather than having them come on at specific times.
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Heat pumps are very popular there because electricity is extremely cheap. Norway has a low population (~5.5 million) yet they're one of the top-10 hydroelectric energy producers in Europe.
They're also one of the top electricity consumers per capita [iea.org] in Europe, and consume almost twice as much as the US per capita, at 22,085 kWh (Norway) vs 12,233 kWh (US) [worlddata.info].
Yah, heat pumps may be popular there, but that's because they're paying ~$0.10-$0.15 USD per kWh [countryeconomy.com].
Compare that to ~$0.37 USD per kWh in the UK [countryeconomy.com].
You probably
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
They're popular in Maine too, with electric prices way above the national average. You can drive down a rural road and see retrofitted mini-split systems everywhere. I'm sure many have backup gas or oil heat too because that would be smart for power outages or extremely cold nights.
Heat pump hate is fucking weird.
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Backup gas, even if it's just a small propane unit, would be a must-have for really cold temps.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
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We don't get that cold around here so I haven't looked into it, but I would imagine there are air sunk heat pumps that have the option. It would be easy to hook up a few propane tanks for emergencies.
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Backup gas, even if it's just a small propane unit, would be a must-have for really cold temps.
I have a 410-a radiational reversible unit (A/C and Heat Pump). It's effective in moving heat until the temperature drops below 37F... then exponentially worse every degree below that. 40 or above is effective. It's not a specially-designed one so I'm unsure of the commonality of this problem. When you drop below about 36, frost starts forming and the heat pump is running 60% more than usual. Defrost kicks in and since the backup heat is gas, there is no electric heat to cover the cold air coming out d
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The trouble is that if the power goes out, so does your natural gas powered furnace. It needs the power to keep the fan running.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
Our natural gas furnace works with or without power for the fan, which is such a loud prick that I never use it. It is less than ten years old.
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The trouble is that if the power goes out, so does your natural gas powered furnace. It needs the power to keep the fan running.
Yeah. I worked around it by using a LiFePO expensive battery with charger and a 3Kw "pure sine" inverter. The unit draws max 650W when inducer is running and ignition coil is on. Inducer/blower totals to about 375W. For nights when the power is more likely may go out (wind/etc), I have the charger plugged in constantly to the wall, charging big battery. Of course, house breaker off, inverter wired in to junction box near the unit. Inverter is on and powering, effectively, the thermostat. Voltage in b
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
People who are trying to preserve a status quo that is destroying them aren't dumb?
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with rooftop solar, electricity is even less expensive than the grid is, even in Norway
insults speak volumes
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Heat pumps are very popular in places like Norway, which has an extreme climate. Part of it is in the Arctic Circle.
These days they work fine well below -20C.
This is cherry picking. Norway is a global outlier with 90% of their energy from hydro. Heat pumps are an upgrade from resistive heating yet at -4F you are lucky to see a CoP of 2 from an air sourced heat pump. In most situations it would not be better than gas either in terms of financial or carbon cost.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
Why?
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Main thing is choosing "air" or "subsurface" (Score:2)
Heat pumps are very popular in places like Norway, which has an extreme climate. Part of it is in the Arctic Circle. These days they work fine well below -20C.
You are missing the distinction the GP made, an "air" vs "subsurface" based system. That one needs to go the subsurface route for cold environments, air only practical for very temperate areas.
The main thing is just getting used to how they are different to gas boilers/furnaces for heating.
That seems secondary to picking the correct type, "air" or "subsurface", in the first place.
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No these are air source heat pumps working down to well below -20C.
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
Here you go. https://www.theguardian.com/en... [theguardian.com]
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Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
Local ordinances? Lack of subsidies? I live in the Okanagan in British Columbia, Canada. Everyone here has a heat pump. It's getting less and less common to see furnaces of any kind. But the government has been working hard to switch people over where they can, providing subsidies and showing how much lower your bills tend to be.
I greatly suspect Norway has also done something like that, considering the penetration of EVs there as well.
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They have a resistance element built in to provide heat when it is too cold for the heat pump to work. We were told to switch that on when it got below 35F
(I think western PA counts as 'midwest')
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(I think western PA counts as 'midwest')
That's pushing the envelope, by my standards and that of Wikipedia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/... [wikipedia.org]
They have a resistance element built in to provide heat when it is too cold for the heat pump to work. We were told to switch that on when it got below 35F
My sister used to live out in that area and in a phone conversation she asked me what it meant to have "emergency heat" set on her thermostat. She lived in an apartment building with heat pumps but due to age and other factors were not well maintained. I recall I explained that "emergency heat" was like a big incandescent light bulb in the walls heating her apartment. I believe that got the point across.
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Resistive heaters *are* 100% efficient at turning electricity into heat. Not 99.99999%, 100%.
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Geothermal heat pumps are the bomb in the midwest or about anywhere else that has significant cold, they're just pricey to install. Had one in my place in Virginia after the Feb 2014 heating oil bill, just for that one month, was $680. Heating after that was much cheaper, in the mid-100's, and all electric, so nobody had to deliver anything whether the snow was 4 feet deep or not.
Meanwhile, I moved to Texas, and sit here in the moderately cool and fiercely hot, double-wide mobile home with my air-source
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I have a heat pump, but I didn't purchase it. The owner of the house did, and made poor decisions without education when purchasing.
The seller talked her into a 410-a unit with an ourdoor unit that does not move noticeable heat under 28F. It's barely noticeable but insufficient up to 36, but the defrosting isn't supported by indoor electric coils; the "emergency" is gas. Thus, when defrosting it's like A/C running in the cold. Defrost finishes and it resumes but can't warm the air up enough inside to me
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None of the units I've seen resistively heated the outside unit. Ours occasionally pumps a bit of heat back to melt any ice. Backup heat is usually done inside, in the air handler, or in a completely separate system. Doing it outside would be horribly inefficient. Can you explain more about what you are talking about there?
As for cold weather efficiency, you can get a COP of 2 down to just under -20 C. Where the grid is greening, this is a net win over gas as far as CO2 goes. Even better if you have h
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This works until about -5, in some rare cases -10. Beyond that you need to resistively heat.
This is so normal, that it even cover automotive, not just residential heating. Even Teslas with heat pumps have resistive heating element on their heat pumps for cold climates.
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Technically you "can" still heat with it until about -20 or so, yes. It's going to be utterly awful in terms of actual heat output and you'll have to lower heat inside quite a bit (as to constantly defrost the heat exchanger on the outside unit, you'll need to cool the inside). So not really suitable for residential, unless you plan to put a lot of layers on inside. Maybe sorta kinda ok for some industrial garage where you only care about not hitting the common condensation issues that start around 7 degree
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And yet, here I am in my comfortable home above the 45th parallel which is heated with a multistage variable speed heat pump, which you claim is unsuitable for residential.
Strangely, every single house on my street has the same heating system, and nobody has torn it out to replace with whatever you think would be better. My neighbor did add a Generac natgas backup generator though, which means their heat pump just keeps pumping through ice storms that put hundreds of thousands out of power.
Turns out you pr
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For those that don't know where the lie of omission is in this one. They don't use air-sink heat pumps.
Err yes they do. In fact air-source heatpumps make up the overwhelming majority of Norway's heatpump sales. They do become money burners, but at around 15degrees cooler than the number you cite with most common units in Norway having a COP of 1 at about -20C. At that point they become like a resistive heater because *some* units actually are resistive below that point. Incidentally many European cold weather heatpumps are gas hybrids that don't use resistive heating elements at all, and maintain a COP above
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>air-source heatpumps make up the overwhelming majority of Norway's heatpump sales.
Another lie of omission, coupled with just straight up gaslighting on what the point I was debunking was. Most of those sales are at the southern coast, concentrated in large population centers. Those are kept from extreme cold common in the north and inland by ocean being nearby.
Reminder: the claim was very specifically exlusionary of those big cities:
>Heat pumps are very popular in places like Norway, which has an ext
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No, I use a hybrid system of central heating and geothermal heat pump + waste heat capture.
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Meanwhile I literally sit on a leadership committee of an apartment building I live in that just got renovated, including heating systems. I literally had the math in front of me, and plants for various heating systems on offer and the math behind them, including a hybrid central heating + geothermal heat pumps with several wells + waste heat capture in front of me. Which is what we chose in the end. Listened to contractors reporting on everything from planning it out, to location of the wells, to permittin
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The funny part here is that you don't actually need to understand the basic heat pump circuit to understand that it fails in certain conditions. You just need to understand tolerances and basic principle of heat exchange, as well as the fact that frozen heat air heat exchanger rapidly loses efficiency.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
"the Norwegian population live in cities which have similar climate to say Vienna, which is to say the average low is 0 degrees"
I'm not sure why you feel the need to make shit up. The average HIGH in Oslo in January is 0 degrees. Other months in Winter are pretty similar.
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There's nothing made up about it. Oslo is just one city. Stavenger, Bergen, along with the entire south has an average low of 0 degC. You're right I missed Oslo (don't ask me why I fumbled Stavanger as the capital) but your point still fails. The average high is 0C, the average low is -5C. That is not an extreme climate in the slightest. Almost every heatpump on the market runs perfectly fine at those temperatures, you don't even need to be selective about the ones you buy.
Norway is a crap example of extrem
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Insightful)
Heatpumps are a great way to heat/cool houses in temperate climates but when you start getting extremes then you have to be very careful about the type of unit you install.
By cheap crap, get crap performance. Equipment that can work on wider temperature-ranges are always a bit more expensive, but not much.
In countries where sub-zero temps are commonplace it's often a better option to use a ground-based heat source. This means laying pipes underground where the temperature remains higher than above-ground. This can provide much better performance.
If you have the money, because it's about 8-10x more expensive up front. There are also other considerations, do you have enough land to put the pipes in or do you need to drill a deep hole to extract heat from?
Unfortunately, it's often much cheaper just to use an above-ground heat-pump with an air-based radiator/heat-exchanger setup and so bad outcomes can occur.
An air2air heatpump can cover 95% of your cooling and heating needs, the last 5% is the expensive part to cover.
You also have to wonder don't you... if a heatpump can effectively produce 3KW of heat with 1KW of electrical energy -- why don't we have over-unity perpetual motion (I know the answer but do you)?
Why would one wonder? It's a heatpump, it moves heat around - it doesn't actually produce it.
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If you live rurally then it's cheap to get holes put in the ground, unless it's very rocky. It's practical for almost anyone with a reliable electrical supply. But the real answer is that you should be building foot-thick walls, insulating houses like they're freezers, and carefully controlling air intake and exhaust for efficiency to the point where you can afford to use resistive heat some of the time. We have our own considerations in California, like needing to stop allowing these flammable communities
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My house in Alaska had walls over a foot thick, yes, built like a freezer. Good windows even. Still took a lot of heating.
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With simple air-sink heatpumps that have an air cooled/warmed radiator outside in the environment there are limits to their effectiveness in very cold temperatures -- as many people in the UK discovered to their cost during a recent cold-snap that saw temperatures fall to as much as -20 deg C.
That's why most (all?) heat pumps have a secondary heat source, usually either electric or gas, for when it's too cold to exchange heat. For example, I have a 3-stage heat pump -- a 2-stage (scroll) compressor for heating/cooling and a 3rd stage electric strip heat for extreme cold. My inside unit also has a variable-speed (DC) blower that ramps up/down.
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No, it is definitely not "all". There are a lot that don't come with them because they flat out don't need them.
Three nights ago we hit a low of 7.6F (-13.5C). I have two Mr. Cool DIY 4th Gen units, one a single zone 18K ceiling cassette, the other a 3-zone configured 12K ceiling, 9K wall, 9K wall. No issues and everything is warm, but the system has to work. I say that because I live in a 120 year old house and the insulation is terrible to non-existent and the windows are the originals. Always another pro
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
It's not all, but these days it probably should be because all bets are off. It's often kind of shocking what you pay for a heat strip, though. Even small ones seem to add a lot to cost. It's a relay and a resistor but it costs hundreds.
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Interesting)
My heating/cooling bills are slightly higher in the winter than in the summer, but not meaningfully so, and we get temperatures down to -20C here occasionally. The heat pump is much slower at heating the house below -20C, but it's not too bad. (In actual fact, the reason why the bills are higher in the winter is because the cats still want to go out onto the catio and that means the door is often left propped open for long stretches of time. They want to do that in the summer as well, but the delta between room temperature and the outside temperature is smaller in the summer than in the winter.)
IN PRACTICE, the reality is that a normal heat pump will be better for your heating and cooling and your bills almost all of the time. If you live even further north than me, like in my old home town of Edmonton, you might invest in a failover heating system. But if you're buying from a reputable local installer, they'll set you up properly.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
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If you live even further north than me, like in my old home town of Edmonton, you might invest in a failover heating system.
Here in Winterpeg where it routinely drops into the -30s C., heat pumps are sold as the AC part of an HVAC system - that is, a heat pump and a gas furnace are a typical package deal. The heat pump functions as an AC unit that can also provide some heat, and at colder temps the gas furnace kicks in. The biggest benefit of the heat pump comes in that window between AC and furnace weather (spring and fall), so the payback time here is far longer than it would be in BC.
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Insightful)
The most common maintenance I've encountered is having to clean the condenser, which is easier than cleaning a furnace (my personal experience). The most common repair is replacing the start capacitor, which is also easy to do.
Meanwhile, I had professional maintenance done on my oil boiler every 2 years in Alaska. Seeing what they did, I didn't want to do it myself. Now, yes, an oil boiler is magnitudes dirtier than a gas one.
But HVAC techs aren't that "special" actually, half the unit is inside, and as long as the compressor and lines are still sealed, you can also replace things like the fan without too much issue. I had my unit inspected when I bought the house, but other than replacing the capacitor, done myself, no other maintenance other than hosing off the condenser to get out the dust you mentioned. Between my brother, parents, and me, we've got between 3 years (and a home inspection isn't exactly maintenance), and 8 without a professional tech looking at our stuff.
No, maintenance costs don't have to eat up the advantage.
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Meh, I’m going to have that anyways. I live in an area that is 90f in the summer and as cold as -10f in the winter. So either way I have a big box with refrigerant outside to maintain.
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
"You are forgetting that almost any homeowner can maintain and clean a furnace and flame sensors"
Your average person would struggle to replace a generator these days. I've replaced both those and gas valves on my own equipment, I wouldn't like to see most people do that. I also have repaired dozens of RV furnaces, professionally. I think most people with a brain are potentially capable of doing it, but I wouldn't trust most of them to seal it correctly their first time taking a wrench to it. I've done a who
Re:Sometimes not that good (Score:5, Informative)
if a heatpump can effectively produce 3KW of heat with 1KW of electrical energy -- why don't we have over-unity perpetual motion (I know the answer but do you)?
Heat pumps do not produce heat. They move heat from one location to another. It is more efficient to move than to create. There is no magic involved.
Heatpumps are a great way to heat/cool houses in temperate climates but when you start getting extremes then you have to be very careful about the type of unit you install.
There are air-source heat pumps in common use in Canada and other arctic and near-arctic environments. They are designed with a different optimum efficiency range than ones built for semi-tropical environments. Buy a device designed to operate in the temperature range you expect in the area in which you live.
Ground-source heat pumps are nice, because the temperature of the earth (below the frost line) is very stable, but they are expensive and complicated to install. Air-source heat pumps can be bolted on to a home in place of an existing central heating/air con unit -a cheap and easy upgrade (good ROI).
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Heat pumps do not produce heat. They move heat from one location to another. It is more efficient to move than to create. There is no magic involved.
Technically they do. Because they aren't magic and power is used to move said heat, that power ends up as heat as well and dumped into the home. IE 3 units of heat moved from outside in plus 1 unit of electricity, totaling 4 units of heat radiated into the house.
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What you're saying applies to gas as well. If you size a system to warm your house at 0C you're not going to be able to warm your house to -20C. So you still need to be careful what you install.
In countries where sub-zero temps are commonplace it's often a better option to use a ground-based heat source.
Ground source heatpumps simply maintain a more stable efficiency. In places where freezing temperatures are common you can simply select an appropriate air source heatpump. Heatpumps are becoming very popular in frigging cold places as well. It's not a case of freezing or not, it's a case of how wide of an operating
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Efficiency of gas burners remains the same in temperate climates?
No, no, no. Air temperature and humidity are very much factors in how much energy can be extracted for each cubic meter of gas you burn.
Cubic meter is the common measurement unit in the Netherlands mentioned on your bill.
It varies so much that a recalculation of your yearly bill is needed. Well, you pay for your consumption each month, then the energy company recalculates the previous 12 monthly bills by taking into account the weather that pl
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Efficiency of gas burners remains the same in temperate climates?
No, no, no. Air temperature and humidity are very much factors in how much energy can be extracted for each cubic meter of gas you burn.
Careful here. Temperature is the big factor, but that's simply because the density of natural gas increases inversely with (absolute) temperature. Colder gas is denser than warmer gas, and hence you get more energy out of a cubic meter of colder gas than a cubic meter of warmer gas.
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I heard the same thing about the UK, but it also turns out retrofitting existing heating systems with heat pumps instead of furnaces is popular there for its low cost, but it's inherently less capable than the mini-split design popular in the US. It's cheap because you just swap out the furnace, but only works in very mild winters. The heating fluid in a heat pump only gets about 40 degrees F hotter than a typical target room temperature. That's fine if your circulating air through the room with a fan, bu
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
Re: Sometimes not that good (Score:2)
Thatâ(TM)s bullshit. There arenâ(TM)t millions of people living on a mountain in Scotland. In fact, for most people, overnight temperatures were a few degrees below zero.
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You might familiarize yourself with a modern heat pump, rather than some 30-year-old piece of crap. Modern heat pumps are very good at reading coil temperature and if it's beginning to ice up, it will turn off the blower fan and reverse the coolant flow sending hot coolant to the coil and causing a cloud of steam to rapidly rise off of it before continuing normal heating operations.
And if the temperature isn't rising, the controller board will activate the secondary heat stage - sometimes resistive coils i
Uh oh, quarterly profits threat (Score:2)
Hastily written Executive Order to block the sale of heat pumps in 3... 2...
Duct heating is ideal for heatpumps (Score:2)
Duct AC suits heat pumps much more than the hydronic heating we have in most homes in Europe. Just need a reversing valve and a different controller.
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Fortunately, ductless heat pumps also exist, which just needs a wall unit to operate.
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It's a significant retrofit to pull refrigerant lines through the home.
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You think that is bad, try running ducts where they weren't designed to go.
The drain line is actually a bigger deal.
Best of both worlds... (Score:2)
i bought a heat pump before they were cool (Score:2)
I got a heat pump over 15 years ago, back when few people had such a thing in my area. The people installing the system told me I was the first customer they had that asked for a heat pump. The installers knew what a heat pump was, and were trained in how to install them, but I was the first they had installed. I took this option because both my furnace and air conditioner were in need of replacement and natural gas prices were high and expected to only get higher. I expected the heat pump to be a money
Wrong data (Score:2, Informative)
"delivering three to four times more heat per dollar spent than oil- or gas-fired heating "
Nope, they can have a thermodynamic efficiency of 3 or 4, that is true, but gas is much cheaper than electricity (obviously since gas is used to generate electricity). So yes, they use less energy, but are no cheaper to run. So whoever wrote that doesn't know what they are talking about, or is being deliberately misleading.
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For cooling (hypothetical 95F with low humidity) the Energy Efficiency Ratio came out at 12 for the pump vs 10 for A/C. This is a more direct comparison so I'd guess more accurate, and give the heat pump the nod for a small win.
Mostly I'm surprised how clo
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Mostly I'm surprised how close they are.
Not so much of a surprise. Consumers can calculate the $$ per BTU and switch if one becomes cheaper. Ignoring the significant equipment investment, of course.
What the utilities love about heat pumps is that now many people will buy energy to air condition as well as heat.
Not quite there yet, depending on location. (Score:2)
It's cool to see this as a general rule. Electricity rates don't change very often, while Gas rates fluctuate quarterly, or sometimes even more frequently, making it difficult to compare cost. I'm in Colorado, and the cost of Natural Gas doesn't *quite* offset the Electricity cost for raw therms output to heat the house, but they're within $30/month of each other as of the last month's billing. They might actually be break even after Xcel kicks in it's quarterly increase for the winter months.
It's not enoug
No Contest (Score:4, Interesting)
There doesn't need to be a contest.
I'm "going big" with solar, slowly, and when that is done I'll replace an air conditioner with a 48V mini-split reversible and use solar energy for heating and cooling. Biphasic verticals seem to be the snow solution.
I'll probably add more in various rooms and run those off increased solar.
I'd even like to put in a bigger domestic hot water tank and at least preheat that off of excess energy.
When I do some landscaping I'll need lots of fill so might as well install PEX/AL/PEX coils under it and run a ground-source pump too.
Not sure about using my 180' well for a source have to look into that.
But I'm also keeping my gas boiler and woodstove. I don't see why this is a contest. Diversity of energy sources and methods is a net good. Increased maintenance is a factor but grid-down insurance is a factor too.
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Biphasic verticals seem to be the snow solution.
Can you explain this? (I did search it, nothing came up).
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My heat pump works like that. It works quite well, when in normal operation. Unfortunately I had the coil temperature sensor fail while we had mid-30s (F) temperatures and some heavy fog so it turned itself into a block of ice (the sensor thought the coil was 122F when the sensor itself was covered in an inch of ice so it never went to defrost mode). What was impressive is that it was still mostly keeping the home warm overnight in those conditions until the ice built up enough that the fan was causing s
Not viable in areas with high electricity costs (Score:5, Informative)
I live in San Diego, CA.
The local energy company charges very high rates for electricity 47-55 cents per KwH depending on the time of day. There is a baseline discount of 10 cents per KwH for up to 130% of baseline usage. I have solar on NEM2 to help mitigate my yearly bill, but the system was sized to cover my electric needs at the time of installation. Adding an electric heat pump will blow this model out of the water.
I upgraded my insulation to help with gas heating costs. But the problem is is more and more homeowners upgrade their insulation, the utility will just raise the rates to keep the same revenue flowing in.
I spend around $200 in gas usage for the winter season to keep my living spaces at 68 degrees F.
Even with a 3-5X multiplier on BTU's for using an electric heat pump, I can't see a way to save any money. The electricity costs will be way higher than continuing to use natural gas. 1kW can theoretically yield ~3412 BTU. For a 35000 BTU furnace, this means the electrical resistance equivalent would be 10.3 kW not including any inefficiencies. If we divide 10.3kW by 4 (heat pump KwH multiplier) we get 2.575 KwH per hour of use. That translates to a cost of $1.21 per hour to run.
For natural gas, you an get approximately 100K BTU for hundred cubic ft depending on the heat content. One hundred cubic feet costs $1.61 on the baseline rate and $1.91 on non baseline. Assuming no inefficiency This means I can run my 35000 BTU gas heater for 0.35 * 1.91 or 67 cents per hour.
Of course, in the future California may prohibit the installation of new gas appliances in the future, or they may levy additional taxes on natural gas. At that point I would have to make a decision, stay and eat the additional costs, or move out of California.
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I wonder if running a natural gas generator to power the heat pump would be financially cheaper? At a 3x multiplier as long as your generator was at least 33% efficient you would be net positive. At a 5x multiplier you could get by with a 20% efficient generator.
I think natural gas power plants can be as good as 60% efficient, so anything better than a 1.7x multiplier would make it "better" to heat using generated electricity, but of course you aren't going to install that in your back yard...
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Installing a whole-house natgas generator will require upgrading the flow valve at the street to get enough gas volume for the generator as well as anything else in your house using natgas - that's going to cost a few thousand dollars on it's own. Then, you have to buy and install the generator and have the work inspected, etc. which when I got a quote was going to cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $40k.
That's a pretty god damn long RoI with variable future natgas costs - you may never get to break-eve
Re:Not viable in areas with high electricity costs (Score:5, Insightful)
In San Diego, you don't need to heat all of your living spaces overnight, just the bedrooms. And you don't need to heat the entire bedroom, just the mattress. Maybe 100-200W average is enough to keep the bed toasty at night, so at 50 cents per kWh, that's about 5-10 cents per bed per hour.
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We do exactly what you mentioned:
Shut off the central heat and use a duvet, or if it is really cold, electric blankets while sleeping.
Even with that its $200.00 for the entire heating season (4 months).
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I always advise people to get the largest solar system they can fit on their roof and attach to a single inverter (typically max two strings of panels) when installing. Panels are cheap and adding a few more doesn't usually add much to the labour. Even if you don't use it all now, in future you will be able to add more electric consuming items, and more battery storage. Worst case, in most places you can export the excess to the grid.
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There's a limit on the maximum nameplate power rating you can have. It is typically based on your prior yaer's usage. At the time of my installation I did exactly that and went for the limit. Now if I wanted to convert some of my appliances to electric, it blows that model out of the water.
The only way out is to add an additional solar system which doesn't export any power to the utility, and stores it in batteries for use during peak rates. This is an expensive proposition. Additionally, you will have to
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Wow, what a crappy system. There are no such limits here.
Why would the batteries need replacing after just 7 years? Around here they usually come with a warranty longer than that anyway.
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That's the typical expected life for an Enphase battery system which matches and works well with my Enphase micro-inverters. Assuming they're going to get cycled every day.
You could oversize the batteries to keep the charge/discharge cycles within a narrower range., but then it would cost more.
I'm under NEM2 which is net metering (full retail rate for export) . Systems installed after April 2023, are on NEM3. NEM3 only pays a small fraction of the retail rate for export.
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Those are some shitty batteries. I wouldn't buy one with such a short lifespan, let alone warranty.
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I don't know where you live that they would limit how much solar you can install by nameplate capacity.
Usually the constraints are to do with roofing code - there has to be X inches between any other thing on the roof and the panels, that kind of thing.
My proposed 9.2kW system turned into an 7.6kW system due to such local ordinances.
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But the problem is is more and more homeowners upgrade their insulation, the utility will just raise the rates to keep the same revenue flowing in.
That's not how ratemaking works in the utility sector, for either gas or power.
There is a portion of your bill that is somewhat immutable, that relates to the cost of the system to exist and function. Ideally 100% of those base costs would be fully reflected in flat service fees, but it's actually somewhat political. For example, it's pretty common for solar installers to fight against accounting for costs in flat fees as that undermines the profitability of home solar. Anyway, at least in an idealized syst
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I'm aware that the utility can't unilaterally raise prices. The CPUC must approve tariffs which set rates.
In California the utilities get most of the rate increases they request. This has been an ongoing problem.
The rates may be reduced by 10-20%, but are never flat out denied. You would think that an outright denial here or there would be good to keep the utilities on their toes and not use rate increases to solve all of its problems.
The CPUC commissioners are appointed by the Governor, they should be elec
The IRA was supposed to subsidize heat pumps. (Score:2)
Have reliable backup & clothing lest ye be sor (Score:2, Interesting)
While discussing grid powered primary HVAC is well and good, failure to have ready independent backup can cost frozen pipes and much worse. (The fatalities from the Texas freeze show the cost of learned helplessness.)
Firstly, own cold weather clothing far more than you imagine you'll need. (It's cheap enough in summer.) Grid powered (anything) are primarily for comfort not survival, so even if yours has never failed
have at least one (oversized, there is no benefit to small backs in static locations while la
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Silly paranoid... In your zombie apocalypse, you don't need anything but a metal box to cram in the zombies because most anything can be burned for heat...
Where are people to safely put this "most anything" to burn for heat? Having lived for some time in both the Midwest and Texas I can say that fireplaces are common in the Midwest but not so much in Texas.
Older Texas houses would have fireplaces because they'd have existed before rural electrical co-ops would have allowed for central heating from furnaces. Newer Texan houses would have no such thing because the need for such is a once in a century kind of event. In the Midwest an extended power outage is
Sign of intelligence (Score:2)
I have been slowly succumbing to old people's disease ("Kids these days....") But this gives me hope. Heat Pumps are obviously better devices than current equipment, having finally overcome their own psychological weakness (Originally they were designed to maximize energy savings even if that meant they took forever to heat or cool your house. That gave them a horrible reputation until people realized they had to prioritize comfort and accept only saving 80% instead of 95%.)
Heat pumps -whether geo or air
Here comes the luddites (Score:2)
Here comes all the weird luddites who are more interested in crazy politics than technology, but for some reason spend all their time in Slashdot.
Why so late? (Score:2)
Even back in the 70s we used what we called "reverse cycle air conditioner" in my parents home here in Australia for winter heating. And it was "Made in the USA.".
Whaddaya expect? (Score:2, Insightful)
Well, whaddaya expect when the government threatens to ban gas, puts onerous "green" requirements on anything that uses gas, and gives you free money to buy heat pumps?
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Unless you propose that businesses are storing said heat pumps rather than installing them, which would be rather expensive, presuming that they sold them is logical.
Also, I don't know where you got 35.3%, Oil warm air furnaces went from 2749 to 2921, an increase of only 6%.
Also, they shipped 261k gas warm air furnaces compared to 316k heat pumps. While in 2023, it was 227k gas furnaces, vs 206k heat pumps. But by that metric, heat pumps also outshipped gas furnaces in 2022, 299k vs 286k
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What a bunch of horseshit.
If you set the temperature in your house to 72F, and the air coming out of the vent is 80F or 110F what the hell difference does it make? It's higher than ambient, thus ambient will rise. The goal is to keep the house at 72F using the least amount of energy that you pay for as possible to do it. If you're cold, set the damn thermostat higher.
Just because you prefer to have very hot dry air blasting out more expensively does not make one "feel cold all winter long" if using the sy