How Printed Circuit Boards Are Made 88
An anonymous reader writes "Ever wanted to see how printed circuit boards are made en masse at a professional production house? Well, here you go. The folks over at Base2 Electronics recently got to tour Advanced Circuits, a PCB production house. They took some rather incredible pictures and explained the process along the way."
How It's Made (Score:2)
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let's have a story about how circuit boards are manufactured! sure this crowd either already knows the subject
PCB manufacturing was "news" in the 40s for proximity artillery shells.
I made my own PCBs by hand in the 80s, I made a nice capacitance meter that essentially used an 80s 8-bit micro as a very complicated stopwatch to determine the RC time constant, then it ran the calculations to convert the measured time into uF or pF as appropriate. It actually worked.
The modern-ish way to build non-PCB stuff at home now seems to be Manhattan-style construction, cutting little squares of PCB and soldering them into a su
Re:How It's Made (Score:4, Interesting)
In electronics class in high school (13 years ago, so there was still such a thing), we had a PCB maker.
The teacher had found a kit in a mail-order catalog to convert a plastic file box into an acid bath. We drew our circuits, printed them on a laser printer (very expensive at the time), ironed(!) the toner on to the copper surface of the board (which required copper-coated boards, so... not cheap), then let them sit in the acid bath overnight (actually only about 3 hours, but the class was only 90 minutes every other day).
The file box/PCB maker had a pump, reservoir, and stand that kept the board partially submerged during the bath, with acid flowing over it. The timer would kick off and the pump would reverse the acid into the reservoir and turn on a fan to air dry the board. Everything with exposed copper would have the copper eaten away. The laser printer's toner (ironed on, remember?) would prevent the copper underneath from being dissolved.
Once you removed the board from the bath, you had to scrub the toner off of the remaining traces with a toothbrush (gently, so as not to damage the traces), and drill your pad holes (no surface mount in those days). Voila! Instant (+/- 1 day) custom PCB.
You kids with your cheap Chinese labor... GET OFF MY LAWN!
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We used the UV-sensitive boards. Print the design onto an overhead sheet, put on board, expose board, etch, rinse, remove the photosensitive layer that's still on the tracers with some acetone, rinse again, done. Works much better than toner transfer; but also more expensive. Even did some 2-sided boards that way.
Then again, rarely do people etch their own boards these days. Either use one of the island pads/strips boards that are cheap and do some wiring for cross-traces, or have the board fabbed. By
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You kids with your cheap Chinese labor... GET OFF MY LAWN!
I thought that was the case with advanced circuits before I started working with them, but... nope. All work done in the USA. I know you're generally stating a good point about the world, but... I thought it would be good to point this out. There are some PCB houses out there that do in fact have the work done in China, but not Advanced Circuits. I was really impressed with how cheap 60 square inches of PCB was. And one more point of clarification... if you're designing boards with a package like Eagle
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"The teacher had found a kit in a mail-order catalog to convert a plastic file box into an acid bath."
We had one of those, too.
Just about everything anyone made with it let the magic smoke out immediately, though. Made for some pretty neat noise and lights for a few seconds sometimes.
I dunno if that was us or the PCB maker or the teacher. Hell, could have been all three.
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In electronics class in high school (13 years ago, so there was still such a thing), ..... (no surface mount in those days).
I think it depends who you hang with and what you do. In the microwave RF world, surface mount was already old, 13 years ago. I was building ham radio microwave transverters using SMD, oh probably 15 or 20 years ago. For a variety of reasons such as ground-lead inductance and impedance mismatches, I don't think anyone's ever used MMIC-technology ICs in old fashioned thru-hole construction, and those started coming out in the late 70s or maybe early 80s, so its gotta be older than that.
Surface mount is mu
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No, the modern way to build PCBs at home is to home etch. The modern way to build PCBs not at home is to send CAD files to China.
Occasionally I make 2-layer boards at home. The usual technique is to use laser printer toner transfer (use a CAD program, not a "Windows only wannabe CAD program", but gEDA (GPL EDA) which was designed for Unix, and is a set of tools such as gschem (schematic capture) gnetlist, PCB, etc. Shiny inkjet paper is used to print the PCB layout and then a clothes iron (or a laminator) i
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You used the word "sheeple." Your rant has instantaneously become invalid, and you are now officially the stupidest person in the thread.
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I have never had any decent results with toner transfer, but that is my problem ... but you will not be making too small of traces and anything over 2 layers is going to be durn near impossible (unless you make a bunch of boards and glue them together) + solder mask + silk screen + cutting + drilling + though hole plating
your not going to be doing any serious production that way
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We used a resist pen when i was in school. But we never got to make anything even slightly complicated.
I make my boards nowadays with a sheet of copperclad board and a dremel. After planning things out on paper, I free draw with a pen where I don't want there to be copper, and then use a small hand dremel with a small metal cutting wheel to remove the marked copper.
Perhaps a little barbaric for some people, and I probably really should be wearing at least a basic paper respirator when I do it (but I don't
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speckles = dirt
eaten = too much time
if it takes hours your doing it wrong, I reused the same ferric chloride for the last 4 pcb's I made and even in its weakened state and mostly saturated with copper it only took 20 min
and people mill pcb's all the time =)
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The only part that is really difficult for home / hobbyists is the through plating.
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Plating? Bah! Luxury!
A piece of wire soldered to both sides!
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Bad trolling is bad.
We've been an Advanced Circuit customer for years (Score:2)
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Any suggestions for circuit design companies? low cost, one off devices primarily for development / prototyping?
(nothing complex; primarily sensing circuits be it pH, ion selective probes, etc)
Not specifically looking for something to be made right now, but in the future it is a possibility.
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I've used PCB Fab Express [pcbfabexpress.com] in the past, their good for 2 - 6 layers nothing with small traces or pitch. Keep to their design rules and it will go well.
If you ever go further than that, for more complexity or quantity talk with Ben Gonzalez [linkedin.com], he's best PCB guy I've ever worked with. (No I am not him).
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They are a middle man. They send it out. Do yourself a favor and go elsewhere to save money.
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It's been a few years since I've had anything made, but at the time Olimex [olimex.com] in Bulgaria seemed to be the cheapest for one-off stuff.
Places in North America wanted too much cash, and the Chinese outfits weren't worthwhile unless you ordered a bunch of stuff.
The one exception was.... advanced had a deal for students, not sure if that still exists. (I think it was $33 for a small double sided - normally you need to buy four, but a student could get a single). I'm not a student so it doesn't apply anyway.
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We used Sunstone for a custom PCB board in my Sr Design Class at the University of Toledo (a few semesters back). Whats more, I believe they provided the professor with ~$1000/semester to students who need a custom board made.
Props to your dad, for donating some time/energy/money into helping college students with their projects. If I ever need a custom board made I'll go through him just for that reason.
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Any suggestions for circuit design companies? low cost, one off devices primarily for development / prototyping?
(nothing complex; primarily sensing circuits be it pH, ion selective probes, etc)
Not specifically looking for something to be made right now, but in the future it is a possibility.
Bring the design to my house with a case of beer and a stack of pizza!!!
I use Eagle Cad (Horrible to learn, yet powerful), print onto glossy magazine paper, iron onto Cu clad (I have a stack of 3"x4"), etch with Ferric Chloride, drill with my dremel, then solder.
We should have your prototype ready before we run out of beer and pizza.
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Re:We've been an Advanced Circuit customer for yea (Score:4)
They use Gold Phoenix [goldphoenixpcb.biz] for the actual production. If you need enough copies to fill, or even mostly fill, 100 or 150 square inches, it's cheaper to deal with Gold Phoenix directly. Other people have suggested DorkbotPDX [dorkbotpdx.org]; their prices may end up cheaper, but it appears to take Dorkbot a long time to fill up a panel; BatchPCB seems to fill a panel every couple of days.
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Good (Score:2)
Been to a few smaller PCB fabs (Score:5, Interesting)
I've been to a few smaller PCB fabs a few years ago, before the days of 4PCB and PCBExpress and the like - mail order, nearly overnight, you fit it into their process flow shops. Anyway, this is back when a 4 layer board run was a $2k/2 week kind of deal rather than the $500 or so you can get now (or cheaper if you can wait). Those places were FILTHY and smelled like all kinds of hell. Nasty business. It's amazing how far these guys have come.
The value is so much better now too. Ten years ago, to get an overnight board we used to mill out two layer boards using a piece of prepreg with copper on either side. A guy would machine off all the copper we didn't want, then drill holes where we needed vias to connect from one side or the other. Then I had to fill the vias with little pieces of wire and solder each side, then stuff the board, then test and debug it; over repeated rework cycles the board would start to peel apart. On top of that, if you get the board hot enough, the vias (wires) would fall out and that was pretty hard to figure out. It was gravity assisted current limit.
Now, you finish your board design and ship it off to one of these guys. During the time you used to spend getting to square 1 with the milled board, you could order parts and then the board shows up from one of these guys like 4PCB here. A 2 day turn on a 4 layer board is no problem and just a few hundred bucks. The time I spent soldering vias into the milled board cost more than the real PCB I can get now. It's amazing. The way they get the price down is a combination of two things - first, you fit into their process flow, as I mentioned earlier. That means that they don't look at your board, they don't think about your board, they just cram it on a panel with some other guys' boards. If you want slots made in the board, you don't get 'em; if you want internal routs cut out of your board you don't get 'em. You get what their process says it does, and so does everyone else. This leads to the second way they get price down - volume. Lots of guys now order from a couple big shops, rather than these little (pretty dirty, as I mentioned) little mom-n-pop PCB houses. And we all order the same process.
It's amazing to see how some of these basic market principals have worked in the past ten years, and it has made a huge change in the R&D industry. It's much easier to do a pilot run of a board, it's much easier and cheaper to make a limited run, and since you are risking less you can order more and try things out. Truly awesome for an electrical guy.
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I luckily managed to completely miss the "bad old days" of crazy-expensive boards, though it's still not "cheap". So far I've managed to get by without the really quick turn times, but I've got a deadline coming up here that may change that.
For most of my boards though the turn time isn't critical, and many of them are experimental anyway. I can pipeline the wait for PCBs with other stuff, and all is well. However, I end up using the DorkbotPDX group PCB [dorkbotpdx.org] order for most everything, because it's cheap and
Re:Been to a few smaller PCB fabs (Score:5, Interesting)
I design PCB's for a living, these days. Most board shops I work with have yearly tours/open houses: if you want to see an up-to-date shop see if they're throwing one. It's pretty cool to see. I'm mostly impressed by the electrical test machines: they look like a dozen mechatronic herons madly going after fish.
When I can wait a bit, I use myropcb [myropcb.com] because if I'm ordering 200 boards the size of postage stamps they're less than a dollar a piece including soldermask and silkscreen on both sides, if I can wait 10 days. (It'd be a lot faster but they tend to go slowly through US customs.) If I'm willing to pay a bit more, I use Circuits West [circuitswest.com], who will crank out up to 60 square inch boards for $31, and have had great quality.
However, the really great thing about milled boards is the turn time -- if you have a mill. I regularly go from hastily drawn schematic to finished, working board in under two hours, if it's a simple design. We can do three revisions of a board in a day, and *then* send it out to get a green board, once we're sure we have something working, and have a tested design ready for large-scale production in three days. We *love* having a PCB plotter in-house. It takes some thinking and experience to lay out good boards for it, but it sure helps productivity.
While I'm shilling companies that have saved me in crises, Vector Fabrication [vectorfab.com] is not the cheapest place to get PCB's, but they'll produce a 30x30 cm 14 layer board with 3 ounce copper in two days.
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I used to but don't anymore, it doesn't appear. I read your other post in this article and your company will be seeing an RFQ next time I have a big ugly piece of test hardware to get fabricated. Specific questions: do you do conductive fill vias? do you do laser (or whatever technology) blind microvias on the 0.008" size range? and how small a drilled via can you put through a 0.187" thick board? I'm jbump at front range internet.
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As a hobbyist I use Seeed Studio a lot. Very cheap for small boards and about a 1 month lead time from ordering to delivery.
The biggest problem I have is a lack of good and unrestricted PCB layout software. I mainly use Cadsoft Eagle with a budget license, but there are some fairly severe limits on board size. I do arcade stuff and the JAMMA connectors are longer than the maximum board size my license covers, and the next one up is about $700. A bit high for a hobbyist.
I tried gEDA and a few others but they
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At work I use Altium, which is fairly easy to learn but has some weird bugs, draconian licensing, and breathtaking price, and Cadence, which is *not* easy to learn, has the most convoluted, cumbersome, and wretched new-parts-creation system I've ever seen, exostratospheric price, but the best PCB layout I've ever used. It's just dreamy. I also occasionally use OrCAD, which is quite reasonable if not outstanding on all fronts: schematic, layout, and parts creation.
At home I use gEDA. Schematic works fine,
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I tried KiCad but it seems fairly klunky... It amazes me that we can't come up with a good UI for cad software yet. One of the biggest plus points for Eagle is how well integrated it is, especially the way you can update the schematic and instantly have that reflected on the board.
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We *have* come up with good UI's: you just pay through the nose for them.
My favorite nice intertool integration feature of Cadence is that you can open schematic in one window on one monitor, layout on the other monitor, put layout in 'move part' mode, then click on a part in schematic and mouse over to layout and that part is stuck to the cursor, ready to be placed. When you're doing huge boards with repetitive layouts that's an unbelievable time-saver. On Altium, my favorite intertool integration featur
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Eagle has the update from library to schematic/board thing too, and I agree it is handy.
Webserver circuit boards (Score:1)
Very interesting yet an advertisement (Score:1)
However, the article partially reads like an advertisement. I've used the mentioned company and their pricing is good when comparing US based PCB fab shops. If they are going to advertise on slashdot, I'll share my experiences with different fabs. I've found the best deals are with non-US companies: http://www.bittel [bittele.com]
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Most US fab shops don't even look at your boards before building them.
That's because they have computers to check your boards. Most major board houses have online submission and DRC checks. 4pcb (aka advance circuits) usually gets you the files back within 30 minutes complete with .pdf printouts of each layer along with a quote for every conceivable quantity and delivery schedule. And in case anyone needs some anecdotal evidence, every board house I've used (big and small) has called me at least once to clear up some issues with my boards.
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Our setup is automated - your files are processed as sent without design review.
This quote is from a fully automated pcb fabrication site, pcbexpress. It's super fast and very cheap but the files are made as is without the DRC checks. https://www.pcbexpress.com/products/order1.php?type=4 [pcbexpress.com]. In the end, you will need to choose two items from this list
Backwards processing (Score:2)
Can someone familiar with the process answer why they do this extra step, instead of simply protecting the copper they want to keep with the resist and bypassing the tin-plating step altogether? The only reason I can come up with is that the electroplating
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Why not just put down a resist layer directly and etch what the resist doesn't protect? That seems much simpler.
More simple, but processing that way wouldn't plate copper in the holes drilled for vias. It sounds like you're forgetting that step.
This is just a cover-up. (Score:1)
Maddening Industry (Score:2)
Board houses CAN do amazing things, however getting straight answers to design rules usually gets a "It depends..." response. Nothing worse for a hardware designer than having to wait until you spit out a GDS file to get surprised about cost of certain process combinations, or incompatibility of certain process options (i.e. getting sold on edge plating or blind vias only to find out the hard way that that results in MUCH worse etch tolerances).
Most the companies I've dealt with consider their design rules
Good old days (Score:3)
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I remember doing layouts by sticking tape on acetate sheets, cutting the tape tracks with a razor blade - health and safety would not allow that now I imagine.
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Well some of us still build devices without a PCB of any kind. Valve amplifiers are a good example; I am building one from a kit where all components are just soldered leg-to-leg with each other and a few anchor points on the case.
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Ah yes, I didn't get the quote at first but I did enjoy that episode. Probably one of the earliest sci-fi shows to introduce the concept of not altering the past for fear of changing the future.
How PC boards are made? Hey, I know this one! (Score:2)
It starts with a mommy engineer and a daddy EE geek who love each other very much.
If you want actually cheap boards... (Score:2)
If you want really cheap boards for prototype purposes, consider these sources:
Seeed Studio [seeedstudio.com]: these are a total of $10 to $45 for 10 boards, plus a small amount of shipping from China. I get my boards in 1-2 weeks.
DorkbotPDX [dorkbotpdx.org]: based in the US, but only sends out batches every few weeks. They charged based on raw square inches.
And for volume, pcbcart.com is really great. Probably over 10x cheaper than Advanced Circuits.
Of course it's so cheap since it's outsourced, but that's life. Advanced Circuits is ridic
If you want to keep Americans in business... (Score:3)
From a board shop right now (Score:1)
Where's the popcorn? (Score:2)
(For those who aren't aware, Advanced Circuits always throws in a free bag of microwave popcorn with every order, as a hook/customer appreciation measure).
Never failed me (Score:1)
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I've used PCB Cart. I've never had a single board fail.
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I've tried fighting my mobile phone company when they refused to honour my warranty due to 'water damage'. Two occasions - on one the LCD had broken (how do I know? Fixed it with a cheap one from ebay), on the second the stupid joystick bit had fallen out (no problems sir, that's a common fault, send it in we'll replace it). Both times got 'It's got water damage, that's why it's not working, we can't fix it, please pay us to send your handset back.' I wrote several letters, emails, phone calls etc. Was
But what about the software? (Score:1)
Poor tools (Score:2)
I checked out the Advanced circuits site in the link. Their free cad tool has a rather poor library, there doesn't seem to be ANY micro controllers in their library and their own line library can't seem to find common parts either. (Try searching for 2n2222 or 2n3904 and comes up empty!) Even Eagle's free cad tool has a bigger library and lot's of user contributed parts. Only problem with Eagle is that few houses use their file format, though there are ways to make Gerbers from them.