Long-Range Wireless Keyboard/Mouse? 229
tambo writes with the sort of problem more people wish they had: "I've just bought myself an excellent LCD TV. I'd love to be able to access my home server from it for many reasons (music, video, surfing, MAME, etc.) — but my home server is in another room, 30 feet away from the TV and 50 feet away from the couch. I've acquired some gear to send PC audio and video wirelessly (over the 5.8GHz range), so that's all good. My challenge now is trying to send input wirelessly to my PC from fifty feet away. I've thought about getting a wireless USB hub, but that would introduce an additional wireless hop that would probably add to the input latency (and might interfere with all the other wireless gear in my pad.) My best bet now is to get a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse that have an unusually good range, and some of the Logitechs seem to qualify, but it's a gamble. Advice?"
Bluetooth? (Score:2, Informative)
Re:Bluetooth? (Score:4, Informative)
Otherwise, I found that my laptop is a very good alternative. I just hop on my server through VNC and I control it with my laptop. And this works from a further distance since my wireless network has a very good range.
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Otherwise, I found that my laptop is a very good alternative. I just hop on my server through VNC and I control it with my laptop.
I'd just use another laptop and something like PC Anywhere / Go To My PC / Remote Desktop, etc.
Something I have used to control multiple PCs from a single keyboard and mouse is http://sourceforge.net/projects/synergy2/ [sourceforge.net]
I have found it very useful and responsive. Besides controlling, it also enables you to copy and paste text between PCs, even running different OSs.
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That's a good approach, though I'd use SSH tunnelling rather than VNC.
The one that works best for me though, is using my Nokia N800 as a MythTV remote with Mythetomer [packratstudios.com].
It all works over WiFi/ethernet, so you don't have to worry about LIRC or Bluetooth.
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or you could just go take a walk... (Score:4, Insightful)
Re:or you could just go take a walk... (Score:5, Funny)
Nonsense.
I conferred with all my consumer electronic devices and our collective opinion is that you are mistaken.
And what is this "walk" of which you speak?
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In what way are his LCD TV and PC "owning" him? Because he has to spend some more money and effort to get them to work together the way he likes?
I'm all for criticizing our way of life (if only for keeping us somewhat awake) but your statement doesn't make sense.
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- Murphy.
CB'er solution (Score:5, Funny)
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BMO
Re:CB'er solution (Score:5, Funny)
So? Who was it? What did they want?
...
He's not coming back, is he?
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BMO
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Build your own set-top box... (Score:5, Insightful)
I realise you've just spent a fair bit on sending video and audio from the server, and probably don't want to waste that investment, but wouldn't the easiest approach be to have a networked PC under the screen, and use that to connect mouse and keyboard to? You could SSH into your server, or similar?
With this approach you could dedicate the "set-top box" to recording video (handy for the antenna connection or cable box...) and use the server for storing recordings long-term.
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I so wish it would do 720p but the xbox chokes hard on it. In fact most peoples HTPC's choke on HD content.
Re:Build your own set-top box... (Score:5, Interesting)
My own experimentation with an HTPC has been quite and adventure. I started out with the goal to get rid of Comcast, install FiOS for internet, then deal with just the OTA digital stations. They broadcast plenty of HD. A few of my problems were, well... "social", but most were technical.
Of course the first thing that happened was we decided that while only having local channels was not so bad, being without the convenience of the DVR was just a no-starter. So I built one. AMD 690G motherboard (from GigaByte), HDHomeRun dual networked tuner, 500GB storage. Worked pretty good. Then:
But at least I don't have Comcast anymore. Oh, and I'm saving a whopping $8 a month, so my hardware investment will be paid back in ... only 7 years!!!
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wouldn't the easiest approach be to have a networked PC under the screen, and use that to connect mouse and keyboard to
That's how we've done the setup where I live. Bought a couple of secondhand PC's, which were shifted into media PC cases, add a PCI wireless card and S-Video capable graphics card and you're set.
The PC's sit quite nicely with the other equipment around the TV, and it's easy enough to control using the IR remotes (we use the Microsoft MCE ones).
Load MythTV on all these machines, convert all the DVD's to ISO's / CD's to MP3 / etc and throw them on your workhorse PC (Myth Server) and you're set
How are you running the video remotely? (Score:2)
Or take that P200 laptop with the cracked screen that's been lying around and use it as a X server for the keyboard and mouse.
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The second sentence of the freakin' *summary* says:
He's got no wires, and he wants to keep it no wires. Personally, I tend to prefer sticking to wired connections when possible (such as with two fixed points in the same home) but it's his stuff and if he wants to do it wireless
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Hey, there was no FA for him to RT, so he was obliged to skip even the slashdot summary!
hawk
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VIA has hardware acceleration for high def video in the chipsets. It'll take some time for atom to catch up, but you could wait for the eee-Desktop PC to do the same thing.
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What OS?
If Linux, why not SSH/Xwindow via XDMCP?
If Windows, why not rdesktop?
HTPC doesn't need to be too powerful (Score:4, Interesting)
I've got a Linux HTPC that satisfies me pretty well. The only case fan I need is on the power supply, since I'm using a low-power AMD 45W dual core CPU. The CPU fan is small and almost inadible. Since all the data storage is on the home server, the HTPC boots off a 4GB CF card. The power supply itself is "80 plus" rated PS with power factor correction, and the fan only runs as fast as it needs to, which isn't very fast since nothing in the box makes too much heat.
The performance specs aren't incredible, and this setup wouldn't be suitable for hard-core gaming, but it doesn't take much CPU horsepower these days to run video and audio codecs.Re: (Score:2)
Re:HTPC doesn't need to be too powerful (Score:5, Interesting)
I have an AMD X2 5600+ in my HTPC and it can play 1920x800 @ 24 Hz (most movies) fine, but drops frames in high-motion scenes on full 16:9 1920x1080 videos, especially if they are 30 FPS. This is with a custom "mythplayvideo" wrapper script I wrote that sets different options depending on "pixels per second" and codec, and also changes the refresh rate to match the video FPS with xrandr. It's also using AC3/DTS-passthrough so no CPU is spent on audio decoding.
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Re:HTPC doesn't need to be too powerful (Score:4, Interesting)
This is on Ubuntu 8.4 using mplayer with the CoreAVC codec.
Basically the parent is wrong.... and he needs to check his software setup. Most likely those specs are for non CoreAVC mplayer and/or VLC (and VLC truly SUCK playing 1080p x264 files...)
Extension cable (Score:4, Insightful)
Use a USB extension cable, plug it into the server, and plug the wireless receiver into that. Run it along the wall as far as is necessary to bring it into range of wherever you use the keyboard.
And on a side note: the couch? Really? I can never quite believe that people are actually comfortable using a computer when they are sat on a couch. That goes double for non-laptops.
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Re: the couch. Sure, it's not the ideal location for hours of hacking, but it's ideal for quickly logging into a server to check something, or firing up a web-browser or mail client.
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Hell, even when I'm coding I do most of the thinking away from the desk and even the computer itself.
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Active Extension Cable : 16 feet (Score:5, Informative)
I think the repeater is a one-port USB hub, so they could be daisy chained for a while, as long as they get enough power from the original port. Maybe have a powered USB hub that the wireless receiver plugs into.
Or you use a USB-Ethernet Extender [newegg.com], which sends the USB signals over an Ethernet cable. I don't think that is USB over IP, so you probably can't plug that into an ethernet switch at all.
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I can never quite believe that people are actually comfortable using a computer when they are sat on a couch.
I had my G4 Mac Mini hooked up to my Toshiba 51HX83 for about six months. It would still be hooked up, despite me having a 21 inch 1600 x 1200 LCD monitor in the computer room and only being able to run the TV at 720P (the writing was too small at 1080i), if it weren't for the fact that the Apple Menu bar starting burning into my screen.
Now I could see your point with a small TV, but with a 50+ inch it's simply amazing. No monkeying around with media servers or wireless networks, everything was in one sp
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I build home theater systems. One was in a home with two toddlers with the destructive capacity of a cement mixer. So all speakers were installed in-wall. The LCD screen was also installed in a wall, and a model was chosen with controls on the top. And all the items with buttons and knobs were installed in a room in the basement. DVD playback is via a Mac Mini. The actual DVD unit is a USB DVD drive that can be disconnected and hidden away when not in use. Everything else is via an RF remote control.
The po
Gyration Go Pro 2.4 GHz (Score:5, Informative)
http://www.gyration.com/p-18-go-pro-24ghz-optical-air-mouse-and-compact-keyboard-suite.aspx
I'll second that (Score:3, Informative)
Seems to be very solid technology.
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And I'll third that! (Score:4, Informative)
Re:And I'll third that! (Score:4, Funny)
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synergy (Score:2, Informative)
Wireless (Score:2, Informative)
SSH? (Score:2)
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zvbox [amazon.com] would have been better, since my Tivo could then cache Netflix movies, and turn off the pc. it's definitly more costly.
Advice? (Score:4, Funny)
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My advice would be to seek advice from anyone with experience of using Bluetooth over long distances - does it do what it says on the tin? The OP could perhaps ask on a tech site like, say, Slashdot. However they'll probably get a load of flippant answers from people who haven't tried it... ;-)
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Use a Class I Bluetooth dongle (Score:4, Interesting)
If one use a Class I bluetooth/usb dongle instead of the basic cradle that comes with the Logitech gear (class II) the range is increased.
class I has a nominal range of 100m
class II has a nominal range of 10m and most bluetooth gear use this
class III has a nominal range of 1m and the only gadget using it I've seen is a bluetooth GPS receiver.
Using a class I receiver with class II gadgets, in my experience, increases the range over an all-class-II setup.
Bluetooth 2.0 EDR dongle are supposed to have 100m range too, but I haven't had the occasion to see if there's a significant increase in range.
Be wary of Logitech... (Score:2)
My personal experience of problems has been with the V270 bluetooth mouse, and the exact same problem is reported with the newer V470. I also have a DiNovo MediaPad (bluetooth numpad, with a small LCD display)... it doen't get used much, but I don't think I'v
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use a usb bluetooth adapter on a long extender cab (Score:2, Insightful)
Re:use a usb bluetooth adapter on a long extender (Score:2)
smoke signals (Score:4, Funny)
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Logitech Bluetooth Mediaboard for the PS3 (Score:5, Informative)
My friend is using one for just this purpose. And he's about 30' or so away, and he's going through from the first room of his house to his basement and it's working great.
As for the wireless video? Are you using so type of VGA wireless solution? With an LCD TV you should be able to receive 720p or even 1080p connect. This would require either a component or HDMI/DVI connect. There are actually DVI over ethernet adapters which will send your single over the long distance without losing quality which the wireless solution I used to use has issues with. You could also just hit up http://www.monoprice.com/ [monoprice.com] and pick up a 40" HDMI cable for about $40 or so shipped. If you didn't know you can get adapters that convert DVI->HDMI and some even support sound as well.
Adesso makes a nice one also... (Score:2)
Adesso's done a really nice job of integrating a nice keyboard and trackball that works nice in my lap, with mouse buttons in several places that work well with various ways of holding it.
I think I paid about $60.
http://www.adesso.com/products_detail.asp?productid=336 [adesso.com]
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Wi-fi/web server based remotes (Score:2)
My Solution (Score:3, Insightful)
You're making the split at the I/O level. Makes much more sense to me to split at the storage level. Storage is still noisy, processing has gotten pretty quiet. Why fling all those signals around when you can just have one Ethernet backhaul, and keep all the I/O in the same room?
-Peter
*Actually just a Newertech drive plugged into the USB port on my Airport Extreme. I hope to upgrade to a Drobo soon.
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Regarding the drobo, I hear they're pretty slow. I don't know if they're fast enough to keep up with a compressed HD movie or not, as I don't have one myself.
The PCjr "chiclet" keyboard (Score:4, Insightful)
Maybe there are other IR keyboards around, but I'm not aware of any. They had a few bugs. For example, if I struck a BIC cigarette lighter near my PCjr, the spark would emit a little IR and the CPU would beep, indicating an unknown IR transmission error.
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On a related IR story: A co-worker of mine who lives a little ways north in San Francisco with three roommates. One of them obtained a rabbit (for goodness only knows what reason). Rabbits, if you were not aware, are very good at chewing wires, and at some point the rabbit managed to chew through the cables to the infrared bar on their Wii.
His immediate solution was to burn two candles on either side of the TV. It apparently worked just fine.
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It's not seen as a standard USB HID though, so I'm not sure about cross-platform driver compatibility.
A better antenna (Score:2, Informative)
That doesn't always work (Score:2)
Cook your own (Score:2)
Nothing like rolling your own.
With trackball (Score:2)
Built-in trackball and 45ft range may work for you.
The canonical solution: (Score:3, Insightful)
Asus EEE PC (Score:2)
PS/2 Extension cables over Ethernet (Score:2)
These extensions are commonly used in e.g. schools where the actual computers are hidden in a cupboard (i.e. to prevent theft) with only monitors, keyboards and mice on the desks.
I had this same problem, easy solution (Score:2)
Remote administration (Score:4, Funny)
"Wireless keyboard and mouse."
"But it's really far away!"
"Binoculars too, then."
Wireless A/V != good image quality (Score:3, Informative)
The best advice I can offer you is to grab one of the new barebone pc's with HDMI out and build a small unobtusive looking Media PC, which can then run MythTV, Media Portal, LinuxMCE, XBMC Linux/Windows, GeexBox, or any of the other great Mediacenter solutions that are out there. I'd also ditch the idea of the KB/M after initial setup and just grab yourself an MCE remote as your main input device (they're cheap, good quality and are well supported on both Windows and Linux).
For what it's worth, I've got a 3.2TB media server based on FreeNAS with 8x 500GB drives in RAID-5. I've got a media box under every TV in the house. The HD capable screens have the Asus P2-M2A690G barebones case with X2 4800+ CPU running Media Portal (Will be XBMC for Windows/Linux when a more stable build of either is out), while the SD TV's each have a modified Xbox running XBMC (unfortunately the otherwise rubust Xbox just isn't capable of decoding H.264 on it's 733Mhz cpu).
The Asus Barebones is whisper quiet, smaller than a PS3 and wouldn't look out of place next to a DVD or VCR.
Anyway, I wish you good luck with whatever solution you choose to go with.
UMPC (Score:2)
Air Mouse (Score:3, Informative)
http://www.gyration.com/ [gyration.com]
http://www.gyration.com/p-56-m2000-travel-air-mouse.aspx [gyration.com]
pretty much anything (Score:2)
From the hardware camp (Score:2)
I say build (or buy) a nice quiet media PC to stick in your living room. Leave the "home server" as a server, and let a dedicated Myth box do the heavy lifting.
I've seen some crazies build fantastic media centers around those funky AMD 780G boards with the onboard ATI HD2400 and HDMI output. There's an NVidia equivalent as well, if you're religious like me.
Wiimote (Score:2)
I use a Wiimote. Modded a sensor bar to a wallwart. A good USB Bluetooth adapter will provide a reliable range up to 60-70 feet (the ones that are rated at 100M, anyways)
I only use it with my media center software (faultBox -- still under development - but making progress!)... Surfing is for the computer. Not the TV. Maybe I just have a bad taste in my mouth from Sasktel's MAX setup. *shutters*
Don't do it. (Score:3, Insightful)
Logitech DiNovo Mini (Score:2)
I was demonstrating this to a friend a week ago and he asked about the range, I said I wasn't sure, so I walked outside, across the road and down two doors and I could still type and use the built in mousepad thing. Well over 40 meters. Works out of the box with Ubuntu. Battery lasts for a month without recharging. I combine this with a Logitech Harmony 785 and MythTV, very happy with the results.
Interlink's RF Keyboard/Mouse (Score:2)
http://www.smklink.com/index.php?id=NDA0 [smklink.com]
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Yes! (Re:logitech Divovo series 1) (Score:2)
For the mouse, I keep two sets of rechargeable batteries on hand and an external charger -- they need to be swapped every few days. The keyboard gets 4 to 8 hours of pretty solid use every day, and needs new batteries every 6 to 8 weeks.
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