Getting High-Quality Audio From a PC 295
audiophile writes "Just because it's a PC doesn't mean it can't output good-sounding audio. In the same vein as specialty A/V products, you can find PC-based A/V systems with extensive audio processing and step-up performance specifications, including Signal-to-Noise ratio, which can make a significant difference when using the analog outputs. Media center manufacturer Niveus shares tips for getting high-quality audio from a PC."
Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:2, Insightful)
Cheers,
Xyst
FP??
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Re:Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:5, Insightful)
Well, like most things...hardly anyone gets all the high end stuff all together, right off to bat!!
My stereo? I've been building it since I was about 12 years old. Right now it is all in storage as that I'm still a bit 'nomadic' since Katrina, but, I've built it starting with money I made back then babysitting, and doing yard work. Started with a Zenith stereo...el cheapo. I saved, and bought a Marantz reciever...then, my Dad found a good closeout sale on some pretty good sized Fisher speakers...I saved and couple years later, bought a pretty decent pioneer turntable. From there an Xmas present of a pretty decent at the time cassette deck (the sharp one which was one of the first to be able to skip songs, etc)...from there over the years, CD players when they came out in college....found a pair of 15 yr old Klipsch Cornwall speakers available just as I got a tax refund...later, Marantz gave out...found a Carver pre-amp with pro-logic, and their 4 channel cathedral amp...Klipsch got stolen...deal with insurance allowed me to spend $1800 and get Klipsch K-Horns (the same speakers I'd been drooling over since 12 yrs old). I've since gone to using the Decware tube amplifier...etc.
I run this system off a media box I've built, with my tunes ripped to FLAC...and I love the sound. But, while the system I have now (other equipment omitted), is in the multi-thousands of dollars, I didn't buy it all at once. Unless you are born into money, do like the rest of the world, and work hard and save and build slowly. Once you get to the point when older that your starting to pull down some serious bucks...well, you can splurge then...but, if you've been building all along, you'll find you have MOST of what you want by then.
I'm at the point now, of looking into higher end sound cards, I'm figuring that is probably the weak link in what I have now...when I buy a home, I'm gonna look into getting another set of some type Klipsch heritage speakers for the surround ones...as small as Heresy's, or maybe even LaScalla if the room is big enough.
See? you never have to quit dreaming and building your system...
Re:Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:5, Funny)
Re:Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:5, Funny)
ROTFLMAO. My favorite is the Wooden Volume Knob [referenceaudiomods.com].
It's funny. Laugh.
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Re:Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:4, Funny)
Hahahahahaha, at $485 the only knob is the one buying this kind of product.
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Excuse me for getting a mop...the sarcasm was dripping a bit from you post.
Actually...I think different wires do make a difference...but, not necessarily something expensive. I'd been reading about the virtues of using Cat-5 cabling. Some were pretty extravegant like THIS [venhaus1.com] ....the using of the teflon coated wires being best do to I think 'dielectric' properites of it. Anyway, I
Re:Nice, just wish I could afford the equipment... (Score:5, Insightful)
Whilst I understand that the world of high end audio has more than it's fair share of snake oil salesman selling overpriced crap (like the wooden volume knob) I get really sick of sarcastic comments from know-it-alls whenever anyone mentions having a decent audio setup. You wouldn't mock someone for having a kick ass computer setup, but there's some kind of geek prejudice against audio - which just seems weird to me.
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If said kick ass computer setup included a $59.95 3ft length of cable called "XXXtreme Gamer Cat5e(+++)" connecting it to his cable modem, yeah, I'd probably make fun of them. Particularly if they're going to pretend it gives them an edge in competition gaming and if I don't see if I'm OBVIOUSLY not a good enough gamer.
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For the ultimate hifi upgrade, get a Benchmark DAC and run it from the SPDIF of the M-Audio. Superb audio quality.
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I need more coffee (Score:5, Funny)
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Maybe it's not more coffee you need, but less pot?
Don't call us, we'll call you.
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Getting High - Quality Audio from the pc. I thought it was going to be about someone releasing an extended dance remix of In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida [wikipedia.org] by Iron Butterfly.
Age considerations? (Score:2, Interesting)
So I wonder when they take specs like this to build systems they go well our target audience is X years old so 90% of them don't need as good of quality in the sound so we can build something still good but cheaper because we don't need to use the 80% of the time to get the final 5% of sound?
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That's why you need better systems...and add some volume. Of course, this perpetuates the 'cycle' till all hearing is lost.
I find it nice however, that someone IS talking about the merits of building for good sound reproduction!! It seems that so many of the past couple generations have grown up with
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Re:Age considerations? (Score:4, Informative)
If your threshold for music listening is around 95 dB (which is only safe for 4 hrs/day anyway), and the road noise in the car at highway speeds is 60-75dB (the latter is allegedly the figure for my car as-built, a VW GTI, from an auto magazine) then you only have at most 35dB between the noise floor and max while driving.
That's already worse than most cassette tapes, particularly decent ones with Dolby NR. (I don't think they even sell the metal tapes anymore, but my recollection is that they were 30+ dB right out of the package without any noise reduction at all.)
In a way, it explains why so much popular music and FM radio is compressed: there's no reason to offer more than 40dB of dynamic range, because (assuming your listeners don't turn it up to unsafe/painful volumes) they'll never hear the quiet parts because of all the noise in the listening environment.
Frankly, I think the biggest single thing you can do, in terms of improving the sound system in your car, is to install a lot of Dynamat or other sound-insulating material. Most car stereos, even the factory ones, have far more resolution than you'll hear except when sitting in a parking lot. If you can drop that noise floor even 5dB, you'll get that much more "loudness" out of your stereo without upping the volume to dangerous levels.
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While I don't dispute the fact that a noisy car environment limits the effective S/N, your computation of 95dB - 60dB = 35dB isn't necessarily true since we can detect audio signals tha
Bose (Score:2, Insightful)
Re:Age considerations? (Score:5, Insightful)
Anyhow, I think the OP should have mentioned that this article is about audio for *AV*, and not pure audio. There's a vast difference between that and pure audio. While a movie can sound awesome with a bunch of small satellites and a sub, that will never do for, say, a recording of a symphony orchestra, where you know the timpani and double bass players aren't sitting on top of each other. Yes, bass at high volume (like in a movie) isn't very easily positioned, but at lower volumes, it's very noticeable. Likewise, when listening to a church organ, you can hear where the different pipes are. They don't move around, depending on the quality and frequency range of 7 different speakers. And when you listen to an AV system, you never play with the volume way down -- you're really only interested in accuracy at high volumes, quite unlike with high end audio.
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(Just to be more precise, since I see that this might cause reactions that he did just this, I meant in the title, which many of us filter articles on, especially with RSS.
I.e. "Getting High-Quality AV Audio From a PC" would IMO have been better.)
Lynx Studio: 200K samples/sec @ 24/bits per sample (Score:3, Interesting)
This is some serious sampling hardware [no affiliation]:
http://www.lynxstudio.com/products.html [lynxstudio.com]
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Remember, folks. It ain't quality audio unless you can decode WWVB [nist.gov] from the signal..
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Re:Lynx Studio: 200K samples/sec @ 24/bits per sam (Score:4, Funny)
My answer (Score:4, Insightful)
Audio should not be done inside a PC. Well, not the analog portion, anyway. Ever looked at anything inside a PC with an oscilloscope? The noise environment is awful. You should not be trying to clean up the power the PC provides to the point you can use it for analog work; it's just not worth it. Especially when you'll just get hit by all the radiated EMI inside the case.
The solution? Simple -- ship the data out digitally and do the analog work elsewhere. Fortunately this has become very easy, with S/PDIF and the availability of good amplifiers with digital inputs. Amplifier power supplies are designed to be clean, and there aren't high current noisy loads on them -- they're designed for analog work. I have a fully digital amplifier from Panasonic that I'm very happy with. (Fully digital meaning all the way to the output FETs -- it does a delta-sigma pulse density modulation directly on the output signal, which turns out to be a very low noise, inexpensive way to get high quality output.)
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Well, to wander off on a non-topical rant...
I won't be finding it any more difficult to get digital audio out than I do now. I run Linux, and I'm not about to pay for DRM'ed music. A lot of the artists I listen to publish online, and they certainly don't DRM their CDs. I'll keep watching DVDs and listening to CDs (or my ogg vorbis/flac rips of them), and I don't yet see any sign of a need for me to change that. If it limits my selection somewhat, then I'll continue to quietly vote with my wallet.
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So just keep buying CDs. Unlike DVDs for video, they are actually good enough to do the job for 99% of all music out there (*really*-well-recorded acoustic rock/pop/etc., anything with a harpsichord, and certain chamber music being IMHO the exceptions).
If you're running a reasonable operating system, no CD has DRM.
The ubiquity of CDs is also why I don't understand TFA's concern about standard SPDIF not being able to handle multichannel at high sampling rates. It's pure pie-in-the-sky. Who actually has 8
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DVD-Audio is 6 channel, 96 KHz. Of course, it failed in the marketplace. (SACD is kind of similar, but doesn't use PCM, and Sony's paranoia prevents the widespread use of external DSD decoders anyway).
Both HD-DVD and Bluray support 8 channel 192 Khz audio, which might prove useful for concert recordings. Conceivably, you could use your computer as a glorified graphic equalizer for room connection. But copy protection paranoia will
Agreed, although DRM-free high-res would be nice. (Score:2)
USB? (Score:2)
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I'm not disagreeing or criticizing, just chiming in but-- who the hell is doing analog work in a PC anyway? You're right, the EM fields inside PCs are ridiculous-- to the point where some hardware will actually make mouse movements and big changes to your display audible in your speakers-- but the whole point of doing any audio/video on a PC is to make it digital!
So really it's a pretty simple principle: whatever you're doing, focus on making the analog->digital and digital->analog conversions as cl
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My answer too (Score:2)
...except for not understanding the "delta-sigma pulse density modulation" bit. In my quest for understanding, Wikipedia (which knows all things) tells me [wikipedia.org] that's a technique for analog to digital?
I have one of those Panasonic devices (SA-XR55), and it's very good indeed.
So here's a pointless bit of pedantry: is it technically fair to call the Panasonic devices "amplifiers" (when taking digital input). As I understand it, what they do is take the PCM [wikipedia.org] input, convert it to PWM [wikipedia.org] entirely in the digital dom
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An analog engineer would agree with you, an audio one wouldn't :) (my guess, anyway -- when thinking about my sound system it's the amp, when designing electronics I'd agree with you).
They actually don't do simple PWM -- it turns out that doing so requires much more time-domain precision than is available. You may be right about the delta-sigma bit, it's not something I know very well. I do know that what these sorts of amplifiers (ADCs, whatever ;) ) do is pulse density modulation, as opposed to pulse
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As an owner of one Sony and one Panasonic digital "amp" owner who is equally happy...
Just see what happens when you are sitting around eating BBQ in the backyard and you try to tell people about your kick-ass PCM-PWM converter and amplitude modulator.
(On second thought, /. readers are probably inured to the resulting reaction. Never mind.)
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You don't need an oscilloscope to notice the noise. You can hear it even on headphones. It makes me wonder why sound cards are not shield
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Hell, I just need to send a ton of traffic over my wireless PCI card, and get all sorts of cool boops and beeps out of my speakers. That's with my actual PCI sound card, too. The sound built into the MB is 10 times worse.
Re:My answer (Score:4, Informative)
these guys have been doing this for quite a while now. and if you only want "good audio" from a pc for your hom theater, get something with spdif and toslink and call it done. Let a high end reciever/processor do the work converting the AC3 track to analog instead of the garbage consumer level PC audio cards.
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I'm looking at buying a complete A/V setup this year and have no idea what I'll get for the audio side (other than x.1)..
Digital audio in Linux (Score:2)
Ideally. A couple years ago when I built my HTPC, I had a horrible time finding a cheap digital sound card that was linux-compatible. I finally found one. But there are still glitches, such as low sample rate / bit depth audio (from webcasts, youtube, etc) not playing because the ALSA driver does NOT automatically convert it to something the card can handle. (Or maybe it's my Denon receiver that can't handle it, who knows?)
S
Yep! (Score:2)
Does anybody know of any powered speakers, like the Meridiens, that have optical inputs?
Reduction is the key, but as you can
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I do sound design for a small regional theatre comapny. I have a nice sound card (M-Audio DiO 2496) with S/PDIF in/out and an professional digital recording deck. I maniulate all my sound cues digitally, transfer them to the deck digitally, and they're only converted to analog during the performance. I've also used the deck as a glorified A-to-D converter too. I've record a friends music. I run his audio into the deck and then recorded the digital signal from the deck.
The setup dates back to the late
Source + DAC + Amp +Speaker (Score:2, Informative)
In my oppinion, Source + DAC + Amp +Speaker ar important to determine audio quality.
if we know sound card contained with very poor DAC, dont let PC doing the DAC job.
so that's why i
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I take it your yamaha amp is an integrated amp...with the DAC built into it?
Do you know of any stand alone DAC's that would be good? Right now, my linux media box, with FLAC, is going out of the soundcard, to a SET Tube amp...I'd like to go the spdif route, but would need an exernal, dedicated DAC.
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Sounds like a marketing ploy.
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Oh..for sure...if you look at some REALLY high end audio, it is all tube based. I don't know all that much about it, but, I read it has something to do maybe with 2nd order harmonics, that actually make sounds more 'real' to the human ear?
I don't really know the scientific reasons behind it, others might....but, I've always loved good tube amps for stereo sound reproduction!! I currently use a SET tube amp from Decware [decware.com] ...this is their lower end model
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http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDEQ2496 [zzounds.com]
sometimes ignoring consumer equipment and just going w/ pro equipment is actually both (ironically) much cheaper and *much* better in quality
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I am using an M-Audio 24/96 card to output 24bit/44.1kHz via spdif into an MSB LinkIII DAC that I got for ~$300 on audiogon.com.... the signal then goes to an Aragon 28K preamp ($450 on audiogon.com) out of the preamp the signal goes to the Outlaw ICBM crossover ($150 on outlawaudio.com) which uses a 36dB crossover to separate 80Hz and above to the B&K reference 200.2 amp ($450 on audiogon.com) and 80Hz and below to my sub (Dayton Titanic MkIII 15" 1000W sealed sub kit; $700 at partsexpress.com)
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How much do you want to spend?
$130? Behringer SRC2496 [zzounds.com]
$700? Apogee MiniDAC [sweetwater.com]
$1000? Benchmark DAC1 [sweetwater.com]
$1700? A used Apogee Rosetta 200 [sweetwater.com]
$2800? Universal Audio 2196 [sweetwater.com]
$5900? Weiss Engineering DAC1 [mercenary.com]
$9400? Prism Dream DA-1 [mercenary.com]
These are some options I know of from the Pro Audio world. What sounds better than your built-in DACs is up to your ears. You might also look into a USB audio interface that someone makes Linux drivers for. You'd get a lot more than a DAC, b
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Why? (Score:3, Funny)
Unless you happen to be on a DRM-encumbered OS like Vista where this is no longer poss---Ohhhh I see what's going on here...
Right. Move along. Nothing to see here.
And I stopped reading right after .... (Score:5, Insightful)
Come on! Didn't some editor read it before posting it to Slashdot front page? This is nothing but advertisement for their A/V product line, and their summary is ridiculous. I will spare you people the trouble to read it in TFA:
And, look at this pearl:
I rest my case. Anyone advocating WMA lossless codec (specially to Slashdot target audience) is not worth your time. Nothing to see here, move along.
Audiophiles really are the ultimate suckers (Score:5, Insightful)
Why would anyone even think that? Just because you have a processor that can perform gigaflops you'd think you can't output good quality sound? The only reason such a perception would exist is to get so-called audiophiles to spend more on garbage that doesn't make a difference to sound quality but they can pretend it does.
For proof, just look at this $1200 Power Cable [psaudio.com]. How stupid does one have to be to spend $1200 on a power cable. What do you think conducts the power from the breaker box to the wall outlet? Why would someone build a $3000+ amp and not properly condition the power inside the power supply?
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Remember audiophile/videophile almost ALWAYS will = rich guy with too much money and no audio/video education.
Unfortunately there are some EE degree holders that believe the crap like spewed from some of the power conditioner companies... my favorite is " it wont sound better right away. it will take a couple of weeks for your capacitors to re-train to the new cleaner power".
This is for a Richard Gray power conditioner.
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Re:Audiophiles really are the ultimate suckers (Score:4, Funny)
"Better clarity and resolution for video
Guess I don't need no stinkin' high def TV, it's just my low-quality power cable that is lowering my TV's resolution.
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Find me a sound card with discrete output stages (an output stage that doesn't use an integrated circuit) and I'll eat the server Slashdot is hosted on with a knife and fork. Sure, I listen to my computer
Re:Audiophiles really are the ultimate suckers (Score:5, Insightful)
A lot of PCs have historically used really, really cheap components in their audio systems, that introduce noticeable distortion and have crappy signal-to-noise ratios. In some applications, that crappy S/N ratio may just not be good enough. This is not rocket science, and it's certainly not spending $1200 on a power cable. It's just common sense.
And I preemptively apologize for the snappish tone of this, but whenever anyone mentions anything that suggests one might want to buy an audio component higher quality than what you can get at RadioShack, they're immediately hit with "Have you seen the expensive cables audiophiles buy LOL audiophiles are stupid ha ha." Yeah, ha ha, funny funny. There's been "snake oil" in high-end audio for decades. There are also great price-to-performance values, and systems that--as shocking as it may be--really do have measurably better sound.
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Olde Sound Cards (Score:3, Insightful)
MP3 (Score:4, Insightful)
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No, it's tinny AND boomy! (Mids? What are mids?)
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Re:MP3 (Score:5, Informative)
99% of music is indistinguishable from CD in 256kbps AAC (I don't have many 256k MP3s).
But some waveforms are just too hard to compress. In particular, harpsichords, solo classical string instruments, and solo electric guitar (through some filters) start to sound strange even at 256k.
A good but not foolproof way to figure out what is going to be troublesome to compress is to compress it losslessly using FLAC or ALAC and look at the resulting mean bitrate. Most stuff that compresses to between 400-600kbps, which is most music, will be fine at 256k. Some of my music, though, exceeds 900kbps lossless, and I even have a couple tracks over 1000kbps (where uncompressed PCM = 1411kbps). In all cases this stuff sounds like crap compressed to 256k. The harpsichords, in particular, sound harsh and flat, since the exceedingly complex waveform they make just can't all fit.
For me, it doesn't matter in the end, since I rip everything losslessly and then compress it for the car or the iPod where sound quality really doesn't matter anyway. But some people may not want to use hundreds of GBs of disk space or may have more music. For them, strategic ripping is in order.
Garbage In Garbage Out... uh well, no.... (Score:3, Insightful)
I guess it didn't occur to him that virtually all audio today is recorded and edited using some form of computer, whether Mac or PC. The statement above is really rather pointless.
Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Micro works GREAT! (Score:2, Informative)
Here's a link:
http://www.notebookreview.com/default.asp?newsID=2 788 [notebookreview.com]
The TBAAM is pretty much the best value upgrade for a laptop's audio out.
bass? (Score:2)
Laptops (Score:2)
DG
Just get one of these (Score:3, Informative)
Buy a professional audio card (Score:3, Insightful)
[For example, after reading buyers reviews and critics, I settled on the Terratec phase 28. http://audioen.terratec.net/modules.php?op=modloa
Its output is directly connected to my Hi-Fi amplifier (no pre-amp).
The only thing to be careful about with such a setup is to not shut down your PC (reset/reboot is fine) while your amp is still on.
Investing in a high grade sound card is the same as investing in a good amplifier or speakers : you are likely to use it for a long time (unlike a graphics card for example).
For Movies (Score:2)
Getting good quality audio from your PC is more difficult then people realize, and is very important if you use your PC to listen to a lot of music or watch movies (ie. as an HTPC).
Since a lot of PC audio equipment is geared towards gamers and people listening to low quality MP3's, it is easy to get loud, deep, multi-channel audio. The hard part is getting clear crisp sound. The one downfall I have found with HTPC's is that I have a much harder time hearing the dialog clearly for some movies then I would
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Any sound card with a SPDIF output hooked up to a reasonable quality A/V receiver (with SPDIF input) and standalone speakers. (Get the decoding and analog out of the PC and you'll be fine.) Get bigger speakers and skip the subwoofer. For the card, receiver, and speakers together you can get what you need for under $500 for perfectly clear and decent sound. (Of course, you can --not "will" -- get better sound if you spend more.)
I keep the analogue audio out of the computer (Score:2)
As some here, I use digital out from the computer and keep analogue audio on equipment that are made for that.
If you read a bit of French, here's my actual setup [claudebbg.com]
Basically, music is stored on firewire drives,
The result is
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I have a question - why are you resampling to 24/192? If your source is 16/44 you're not going to improve anything by resampling...and that ratio is potentially going to lead to degredation (192 is not an integer multiple of 44).
public service announcement (Score:3, Informative)
* keep the volume down, whether speakers or headphones
* be careful of occupational noise...use foam earplugs or over-the-ear mufflers, make your employer pay for them and make sure your co-workers know about hearing damage too
* stay away from loud concerts, parties, dance halls
* get your hearing checked every couple of years by an audiologist
* don't overdo the drugs, booze, or caffiene
* if you are exposed to even moderately high sound levels, let your ears rest for a couple weeks before exposing them again. do not *ever* go to two rock concerts in the same weekend
* at the first sign of infection or fluid buildup, see a doctor
* hearing loss can be instantaneous and permanent, don't risk it
All the megabits and SNR in the world won't help if your nerve cells and eardrums are making little buzzes, whines, and clicking noises. You can buy a better sound card or nicer speakers but you cannot replace damaged hearing: PROTECT IT
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(Actually, I didn't know caffeine, alcohol, and nicotine could exacerbate hearing loss/tinnitus. Thanks for the interesting post.)
Re:public service announcement (Score:4, Interesting)
I play drums (with myself, I'm so lonely) - it gets amazingly loud in a short period of time if you have no earplugs in. In addition, I've been to concerts where my ears physically start hurting. I end up going home at that point.
I've got a new solution though:
Etymotic Research ER20BP [jr.com]
I just bought 2 more sets of these since I lost my first set. Me and the wife are going to a concert in a few weeks and I want to be prepared. These plugs help you hear the full frequency range of hearing, just 20db less. In contrast, most ear plugs really squash the highs out....
Creative Sucks (Score:2, Insightful)
If you want a really good soundcard that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, and is about as "audiophile" as you can possibly achieve with a wintel PC, then look no further than an M-Audio Audiophile 192 [m-audio.com]
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its so that i stopped listening to my pioneer music set with 3 way 2 column speakers and started listening these.
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Unless you're using analog outputs, in which case you're not getting good sound at all unless you have a $10k custom sound engineering rig, IT DOESN'T MATTER.
The signal coming out the SPDIF outputs will be the same whether you're using Creative, M-Audio, or motherboard SPDIF. The only possible difference is in what formats the SPDIF output is capable of sending. And how many of us actually listen to content that isn't either 2-channel PCM, 5+1 Dolby Digital, or 5/6+1 DTS?
And please don't talk to me abou
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Re:Actually it's pretty easy.. (Score:5, Informative)