
Is Your Computer a Fire Hazard Waiting to Happen? 518
whoppers asks: "I'm sure we've all had our share of computer fans die, but what happens if your box is running while you're at work and several fans go out? My in-laws spare TigerPC AMD K62-400's power supply fan just went out about two hours ago, and the thing was blazing hot. A little poke to the blade, and it started up again, but shouldn't these things be made to stop if the fan stops for any reason? I'm starting to wonder if I should start leaving my box off when I'm away for a few hours. Since it's usually wide open, I don't see too much harm, but these cheap boxes that never get opened and cleaned have to be a hazard right? I can't afford a halon system in my office just yet. The only link I found related to this is here and should a few more people read this, here's the cached version. Does anyone have any thoughts or stories related to this?" The fact that this article appears on July 4th, when most Americans will be lighting fireworks is purely coincidental. That doesn't change the fact that the submittor raises a very good point.
A general rule of computers is: the older they get, the more dusty they are and dust bunnies and their denser cousins are highly flammable. Unless you can keep such machines clean, it' is probably safer to leave them off.
Hmmm (Score:5, Funny)
A link to the cached version? Come on, this is Slashdot. What's the worst that could happen?
Re:Hmmm (Score:2)
Re:Hmmm (Score:2, Funny)
So what??? (Score:3, Funny)
The only thing is it's a boring news day.
Re:So what??? (Score:2)
Re:So what??? (Score:3, Interesting)
Re:not so (Score:3, Interesting)
The whole question hinged on wether a CPU or PS will reach a high enough temperature to raise nearby combustibles to
-Peter
Re:not so (Score:2)
Re:not so (Score:2)
Can we agree that paper burns more easily than plastic? Can you burn paper with your CPU?
-Peter
Actually, yes (Score:2, Informative)
Re:Actually, yes (Score:2)
-Peter
Re:Actually, yes (Score:4, Informative)
Yes, specced clock and voltage, and then heat sink shot (removed) to see what happened. The overheating ones were AMD procs; Pentiums did not (I say again, DID NOT) overheat anywhere near these temperatures.
I don't remember the ignition temp for your average plastic, but I do remember (from office fire safety training) that paper tended to have the lowest ignition temp of everyday materials, closely followed by wood. My associations to burning plastic are more along the lines of "toxic as hell so get out", I don't remember a specific temperature.
Re:Actually, yes (Score:2)
Pretty thin.
-Peter
Re:Actually, yes (Score:3, Funny)
Actually, the fire safety training I mentioned was quite amusing in that regard. The fire officer leading the training asked for a show of hands how many had smoke detectors in their house; almost everybody had. His follow-up question was how many had fire extinguishers. Almost nobody.
"Oh, excellent!" he said. "So, you wake up in the middle of the night from the smoke alarm you've installed. You know there's a fire in your house. However, you have no extinguisher! So now you do... what?"
Re:Actually, yes (Score:3, Interesting)
If you have a serious PSU failure there is a good chance you'll have insulation breakdown on the 110V(or 240V in my case) mains section.If this breakdown happens *before* the fuse (which is generally located on the board) , you can have the situation where you can very easily reach temperatures high enough to start a fire in most things.
If you are not careful about your house wiring, or power your system(s) with cheap, thin conductor extension leads/power boards,you can go for some length of time (30 seconds or so), before the fuse blows or the breaker trips. Not good if your power supply has just turned into a 1000W bar heater.
Re:Actually, yes (Score:3, Informative)
ASUS (Score:5, Informative)
And they're damd fine MoBo's too...
Re: ASUS (Score:3, Interesting)
> the new ASUS motherboads have COP : CPU Overheating Protection, which switches off the machine when temp goes baloony.
I have an ASUS board a bit over a year old. I do intensive number crunching on my home machines, with some jobs running over a week of continual 100% CPU time. Being AMDs, they tend to run kind of hot, too, so sometimes I put a room fan blowing along the wall behind the boxes' exhausts.
At any rate, one warm day I had the A/C set kind of high and the room fan aimed elsewhere, and one of the boxes overheated while I was out to lunch. But the board halted it for me. When I came home it was making a horrible alarm sound, and unfortunately I had to reboot because I couldn't figure out how to make it restart after the alarm, but at least I didn't get a fire, nor even any overheat damage to the CPU.
BTW, Linuxers/BSDers who have temperature sensors on their motherboards may want to run lm_sensors [lm-sensors.nu] and a display such as gkrellm [wt.net] in order to keep an eye on your system temperatures when you are around.
Re:ASUS (Score:2, Informative)
Ti Bearings? (Score:2)
Bearings generally stop because of grease failure or contamination. There is rarely spalling of the raceways or rolling elements.
PS I work for one of those 3 lettered companies.
If your power supply is UL/CSA approved (Score:5, Interesting)
Eventually, when the heat gets too high, the power supply will either shut off or destroy itself.
The UL/CSA logo (if its genuine -- many cheap power supplies don't put on genuine labels) "guarantees" the power supply won't be dangerous to you. A flaming power supply would be, obviously.
Hope that allys your fears!
Re:If your power supply is UL/CSA approved (Score:2)
Supply may still light a fire! (Score:2)
I see a few steps I can take to improve my shelf o'computers. I'm going to move my printers to another table, remove excess wires and monitors, and other non esential materials. The insides of my boxes are clean. Smoke detectors and insurance can't hold a candle to prevention.
Re:If your power supply is UL/CSA approved (Score:3, Insightful)
Destroy itself? Hopefully it wouldn't destroy itself in a firey ball of flame...
that is one of the things that UL certified equipment is tested for, numbnuts.
Basically they put cotton "fleece" around all the openings and cause a catastrophic fault. If any of the cotton burns, you fail.
With our power electronics equipment, the fault consisted of shorting out the load side of our equipment while we were connected to a bus capable of delivering 100kA. We passed just fine, but it was the fuses which afforded us that protection. Remove the fuses and the results are ... well... spectacular.
Fire insurance discounts? (Score:2)
Re:Fire insurance discounts? (Score:3, Insightful)
The fact that they don't is probably sufficient indicator that the incidence of overheating motherboards burning people's houses down is very low indeed.
monitor fire hazard (Score:3, Insightful)
Fire hazard (Score:2, Interesting)
At work we recently had a problem where a paperclip fell inside the grilles in the power supply and shorted something out, causing power surges which trashed the rest of the computer, which wasn't nice.
But what was worse was the smell of the thing, it was really nasty. When capacitors burn due to having too much current put across them, they release all sorts of nasty toxins and also fibres which can stick to your clothes and make them smell for ages. Or even worse, stick to you skin and eyes and burn or blind you.
It's not just fires that are a hazard. Computers, and indeed most electronic devices, consist of many environmentally unhealthy and hazardous chemicals.
My CPU Fan is on my Left. My CPU, on my right. (Score:5, Funny)
I'm running Win 98 on a Cyrix M2 233MHz overclocked to 300MHz (came when I bought it).
I paid 2500 rupees for the processor, [ 1 US$ = 48 Rupees - do your math], and thus don't really care much about it.
Anyway, it's 40 degrees here in Delhi, I don't have an AC, and my CPU Fan's bust for *over a week*. And it's happened several times before.
What do I do? I take off the Hood, Put my ceiling fan to "Maximum" and keep on Photoshopping.
I'm a comp Sc student, and I know what I'm doing is insane.
but, Hey, As long as it's running, Who cares?
Re:My CPU Fan is on my Left. My CPU, on my right. (Score:2)
(This was a joke. Don't reply calling me "insensitive to international weather scales, you American pig".)
Re:My CPU Fan is on my Left. My CPU, on my right. (Score:2)
The hottest day I ever had to endure was 35 in Taejon, Korea.
It was 36 degrees in St. Catherines, ON yesterday. Yes, Canada. :-)
Re:My CPU Fan is on my Left. My CPU, on my right. (Score:2)
Always open? (Score:5, Interesting)
Fans are designed to move air - like any fluid motion, air will move along the path of least resistance. In the case of a case fan, where the case is left open, you're pulling air from a very small area right in front of the fan before exhausting it out the back. The heat generating components (CPUs, hard drives, video chips, etc) tend to be far enough away from these fans that you'll see almost 0 airflow over them.
I used to work for a major hard drive manufacturer, and would get complains from users who said our drives were running too hot. Quite often, they said "I even leave the case off, and it's still too hot!". Many times, just putting the case on solved their heat problems. By creating essentially a duct for the air to flow through, the fan was able to pull air from the front of the case, across the heat generating components, and then exhaust it out the back.
In the case of components with their own fans (CPUs, video chips), this is still important - while you've exhausted the hot air from around the component, without a properly functioning (read: case on) case cooling system, that hot air is never removed from the general area around the component, and just gets sucked back in on the intake side of the fan.
Just my $.02.
only if it's a well-ventilated case (Score:3, Interesting)
I lay my case down for better cooling... (Score:3, Interesting)
I've also found that adding a fan to the top of the case to pull the hot air out (on upright cases) makes a BIG difference, especially on smaller cases designed for the MATX boards. I had an athlon in a small case that was running at 60-65degs and very unstable until I cut a hole and put a fan in the top - it dropped the temp to 50-55degs and hasn't crashed since.
I think the biggest single difference I've made was adding a Coolermaster "Heatpipe" heatsink to an Athlon - that thing knocked 15 degrees off the CPU temp immediately! I had to remove it again though, as the noise was unbearable... It makes a nice-looking paperweight though!
Also little things like tidying up a rats-nest of wiring and putting dummy plates over unused expansion slot cut-outs in the case helps.
Re:Always open? (Score:2)
Re: Always open? (Score:2, Informative)
I also did this for quite a while before I thought about it. Now I guess that this is even more dangerous.
A good point though (Score:3, Funny)
I now religiously check the dust levels of my computers.
OR.. (Score:2)
Can see the headlines now: (Score:2, Interesting)
I've always questioned this myself since I always leave my computers running and the athlons keep getting so hot. My parents used to hate it when I left home and left the computers running, but now I've got my own place it's much bigger an issue than before. I do like the fact that most of my Macs hardly use their fans, or don't have fans at all. This keeps me a little less paranoid when I'm not at home. It's also a bit of a problem that in my place (small town in The Netherland) does not have broadband access and I have no possibility at all to check up on my systems when I'm away. Anybody got a few hints fow me?
Re:Can see the headlines now: (Score:2, Informative)
My notebook story (Score:2)
Thank you IBM, for building systems that watch for this kind of thing. One step friendlier could have been a user warning (through a BIOS video overlay) that said "HIGH TEMPERATURE ALARM - POWERING DOWN IN 10 SECONDS" or something, to allow a user (if present) to save some of their work. Anyways, at least it didn't keep running and cook my CPU, hard disk, and everything else they pack into such a small space on these notebooks.
Re:My notebook story (Score:2)
I don't think this is the case here, but it's just food for thought.
Two conversations from a place I used to work (Score:2)
Phil: What's that burning plastic smell?
Fred: It's your monitor, it's on fire.
Phil's monitor had caught fire. Of course the monitor was destroyed but people were around to put it out and keep anything really bad from happening.
Two months later...
Phil: What's that burning plastic smell?
Fred: Your monitor is on fire again.
Phil's replacement monitor had caught fire. That was the last computer monitor fire they had that I know of. It didn't stop Phil from leaving his monitor on every night when he went home from work.
Dying fans... (Score:2)
The thing is, even without sensors, I still have caught the failing PSU fan. When it stopped, the PSU got hotter (as what happened to the poster in-laws), but after reaching a certain temp it just shutdown itself. And I couldn't get the computer to restart immediately after (before knowing what was causing the trouble), since the temperature was still too hot for the PSU to allow power to flow. I'm talking about a cheap 250W DTK ATX power supply from 3 years ago. After letting it rest a little, I retried, and while booting it shutdown again. The third time I tried to access the something on the back, and then noticed that no airflow was going out of the PSU.
For the 2 CPU fans, the motherboard RPM sensors saved both my CPUs (and the fact that I was watching them at the right time).
On a modern computer (where fans can and will die given enough time), a plethora of programs can be run in the background to check the RPM of fans and the different temperatures in the system. Just make it alert the user (or shutdown if no action is taken in x time) in case of one parameter going outside it's normal range. Check overclocking sites for info on that, since they usually tend to have more problems with that then plain desktop users.
Also, the MTBF for cheap DC fans is usually around 20000 hours. That means a bit less than 2 hours and a half. Either replace them beofre, check them cautiously before that mark, or get some higher quality fans (which will tend to be quieter, too).
Another solution is to go with watercooling (but then, if there's a spill AND you're fluid is conductive, the fire hazard is still present). You've only got a pump and a fan (for the heat exchanger) which can die, rather than 3+ fans in a typical computer case (yea, I know, SPOF, but they're more robust).
Re:Dying fans... (Score:2)
An interesting thing to keep in mind is that only about a third (actually e^1 for those who care) of all parts will survive with no failures until the MTBF.
Re:Dying fans... (Score:2)
Danger with Old PCs (Score:5, Interesting)
After considerable effort, I removed the power supply with the intention of replacing it with another AT one that I found. Unfortunately, the power supply had extra proprietary connectors and the replacement one didn't, so I was left to figure how to fix the original one.
I took a closer look and I saw nine (9) years (!) worth of dust clogging the power supply fan, thus blocking its motion. Ignoring printed warnings as "Caution! Shock Hazard" and "Warning: No User Serviceable parts inside", I carefully opened the power supply and removed the fan. Fortunately, the fan had a plaster connector for easy plugging/unplugging (as opposed to being soldered directly to the board).
So I removed the fan with easy and scraped (yes, SCRAPED!) the crap off of it and wiped it down. Then I applied WD-40 to the bearings to get the fan blade with more ease. I had to help the WD-40 spread by using a screwdriver to turn the fan both directions. Finally, after 20 minutes of effort, the fan blade was turning reasonably well with I'd tap it, so I put it back in, reconnected it, and reassembled the power supply.
Once the computer was put back together, I turned it on and felt for heat. Not alot. For the first time in a while, there was ventilation coming from the back of the power supply and the system was running much cooler than before.
So, let this be a lesson to you. Make sure you regularly (yearly?) clean your fans off, removing the dust before it cakes on. Make sure that you do this to any older PCs you have or are about to obtain.
Otherwise, your system will run dangerously hot and only bad things can come of that.
Re:Danger with Old PCs (Score:2)
Re:Danger with Old PCs (Score:2)
-Kevin
Re:Danger with Old PCs (Score:5, Funny)
You're both wrong. It's a water displacement formula. Specifically, it's Water Displacement formula number 40. It's very good for many applications, especially dealing with and protecting metal parts subject to rusting.
Functionally, it works as a lubricant fairly nicely. Also as a cleaner. It also kills ants, and, with a lighter held in front of it, is a fun party tool. It may not be the best at any of these, but it functions pretty well as a general purpose tool - I keep a small can in my toolbox, and usually have a large one around. For parties.
--
Evan
*DON'T* Use WD-40 on small moving parts (ie. fans) (Score:3, Informative)
Functionally, it works as a lubricant fairly nicely. Also as a cleaner. It also kills ants, and, with a lighter held in front of it, is a fun party tool. It may not be the best at any of these, but it functions pretty well as a general purpose tool - I keep a small can in my toolbox, and usually have a large one around. For parties.
I agree with everything you've said except for *one* thing.
Don't use WD-40 as a lubricant. Use it as a penetrating oil, to free stuck and seized moving parts. But once they're unstuck, clean them thoroughly with carb cleaner or something similar, and then use a proper oil or grease to lubricate them.
Speaking from experience, WD-40 turns sticky with time. Small machines (ie. computer fans) will seize.
If you *have* to lubricate a disassembled computer fan, use ONE drop of the lightest machine oil you can find - the smallest SAE viscosity number.
However, dust in the air passing through the fan will magically be attracted to the bearings and trapped in the oil, where it will eventually seize the fan again.
Good computer fans have graphite-impregnated sleeve bearings. When the bearing ceases to be self-lubricating, the bearing is worn out and it's time to replace the fan.
Cheap computer fans (and those sold to people who don't know any better) use tiny little ball bearing assemblies. With outside bearing diameters of less than 1/8" in some cases, the balls are absolutely tiny, especially relative to any dust which might become trapped in them. The "ball bearing" fans are especially prone to failure, and should also be avoided, unless you're buying expensive ball-bearing fans for use in your clean room.
Replace the fans. If you have to take them apart to clean/lube them, they're finished, and will fail again soon.
www.papstplc.com [papstplc.com]
and, manufacturer of the legendary Muffin Fan used everywhere from Cray computers to the Space Shuttle,
www.comairrotron.com [comairrotron.com]
I don't believe in repairing cooling fans, and I don't believe in the cheap crap which washes ashore from Taiwan and infiltrates our computer cases.
Buy good fans. They'll outlast your computers, and you'll never need to do more than vacuum them.
KAAABOOOOOM!!!! (Score:2, Interesting)
Twice I have had a (rather large) UPS explode. When a UPS goes, it goes spectacularly. Really explodes. Smoke, fire, huge BANG. Talk about dangerous. We actually had one UPS disintegrate into pieces... luckly nobody was close at the time.
Monitors can also be pretty spectacular. Where I live we get 150 to 200 inches of rain a year... needless to say, it's frequently damp. I've had monitors, when turned on, explode (luckly never the screen though, only the power supply). We tend to leave all our equipment on, and baking, to avoid this - but still we go through a monitor a year (we are starting to replace them with LCD, we'll see how those stand up to the elements).
But the worst were definatly the UPS - especially since they are near your feet - they can be very dangerous indeed.
Re:KAAABOOOOOM!!!! (Score:2)
So do power supplies. I had a very nice 386DX which I bought long ago. I still have it, sort of. It started life as a 386DX/25 2mb ram/62mb hd. It then became a 486DX2/66/8mb/2.0gb in 1998. A few years before it became a 486, the fan in the power supply went. I thought nothing of it, but I got it to work again. I then upgraded it to a Celery 667/288mb/20gb.
The first time I tried to power it up, the power supply exploded. Literally exploded, there was a big bright blue flame coming from the supply, it was a little bigger than it should have been, and it left a large black mark on my wall, which is still there.
That day, I learned that a AT case was $45, and a AT power supply was $40. So I bought the case. Hence the "sort-of". Up till that point, every part in the computer (except the case/PS) had been replaced. Now all of it has.
Multiple Fans ? (Score:2)
I bought two extra fans and a new power supply the machine is running like a charm ever since
You wont see three fans die at once, better save then sorry.
Dust filters (Score:5, Insightful)
Re:Dust filters (Score:5, Interesting)
At work, one of the PM guys wanted to protect all the large, expensive DC motors on the manufacturing lines with an air filter on the blower motors. Well, next thing we know, there's filter fabric zip-tied to every blower opening on every motor.
The fabric didn't restrict the air flow too much. Until a week later, when the grease and dust in the air clogged them up. Then the problems really started showing up. If you look up the prices of DC motors in supply cataloges, you may notice the prices run up to $100,000 each for the large 500 horsepower models. It seems our desire to protect these babies created an intense smell of burned enamel. When you have about 300 of these motors laying around, many in obscure places, we learned its better to have dust caked up inside the motor than have an undersized filter trying to protect it.
So, the question is, are you going to change or clean this filter on a regular basis?
Re:Dust filters (Score:2)
Exactly. It is actually better to leave large holes big enough to create dust bunnies...they are less likely to cause problems than an uncleaned filter. How many common users would remember to clean their filter? Leave a little room for the bunnies, and your computer should last for years under normal conditions.
Not a great hazard (Score:2)
Bottom line: You might lose your PC, but it will be a very quick and self-contained fire. And considering how extremely unlikely it is to happen, I'd say don't worry.
It just ocurred to me that water cooling might double as a great fire-extinguisher... since a fire in the case would probably sever the hoses. Then again, if you're water cooling, your processor will never get that hot... never mind.
Protected already? (Score:2)
As to the dust being a fire hazard and assuming it is still a risk at normal operating temperatures (which your box should not exceed by much for the previously stated reason), the only real solution would be to clean it out.
The Intel Processor (Score:2)
the only problem is: (Score:2)
Poll (Score:4, Insightful)
Spontaneous computer combustion:
( ) Seen it
( ) Heard of it
( ) Heard of someone who heard of someone who...
( ) Nope
My point is, is this really an issue to worry about?
Re:Poll (Score:2)
Re:Poll (Score:2)
But I have seen monitors explode. Well explode is a strong word, how about a big pop and a burst of smoke?
They were old Zenith 14" EGA monitors built back around '89 or so. We had several dozen of them in a university lab I worked in back in '92-'94 and we'd have one go every month or two. Person would just be sitting there working, and you'd hear the pop and this cloud of smoke would come out the top.
God did that stink.. have to open the windows and air out the lab.
But no fires that I recall... was always a bit worried about that but it never happened. We would make sure to shut the monitors off at night before leaving, just in case.
Forgot a choice (Score:3, Funny)
Re:Poll (Score:4, Informative)
Most smoke issues seen have been:
Ruptured filter capacitors. They have a steam rupture due to the electrolytic. (the end blowes out some times ejecting the roll of tin foil) Boiling water is not hot enough for any flames and the spacer is still wet and won't catch fire.
Shorted power transistors. These may smoke the case of the transistor or take out some flameproof resistors before taking out the main fuse, but again no flames. Shorted disk ceramic or tantilium capitors. These are not made of flamable materials. Last is Metal Oxide Varistors (surge protectors). These tend to smoke the covering, but the part itself is made of non-flamable materials.
In monitors, shorted high voltage supply transformer and the degausing thermistor The transformers really stink with a burning plastic and tar oder, but they are built with self extinguishing materials. The thermistors smoke the plastic covering, but the part itself is not flamable. Again, never had seen a flame continue burning after the fuse or regulated power supply removed the power.
In summary, unless you get enough combustible lint near a severely overheated part, the risk of fire is very low.
The only fire issues I have ever heard about were caused by some defective battery packs for a laptop. There was a massive recall for the batteries. I certanly wouldn't a flaming laptop in my lap. I may want children someday.
My Motherboard (Score:2)
How to set fire to your computer. (Score:5, Funny)
The reason you can't find any info (Score:2)
1. If the fan stops, airflow basically stops. Air contains oxygen, which is required for oxidation (!). There isn't very much air in a typical case.
2. Fire requires fuel. If you have two ounces of dust and three ounces of flame resistant insulation in your case you don't have much of a fuel source. You aren't going to reach temperatures to cause a metal fire. Fiberglass doesn't burn.
3. The third element of fire is heat. Paper burns at 451 degrees F. The burning point of your draperies is probably higher. Your CPU will fail, and at least temporarily stop generating heat, well below that temperature. I expect a power supply would as well.
So, the bottom line is that you could probably contrive a set of circumstances that would produce a "PC fire," but the odds of one happening spontaneously are virtually nil. Perhaps on a similar scale with the odds of your alarm clock/radio shorting out and catching your nightstand on fire. Undeniably possible, but undeniably remote.
-Peter
Re:The reason you can't find any info (Score:2)
One of my CPU packages is plastic. Do you really think that Intel builds CPU packages out of plastic that burns at a temperature that the CPU can attain if the fan fails?
-Peter
Shutdown on stalled fans (Score:2)
It's probably a good thing from a safety perspective, but it was a little annoying at the time - we lost print services for a number of printers and couldn't get the box going again until we found another fan.
What are the statistics? (Score:2)
Using the wrong computers? (Score:5, Informative)
The PPC runs much cooler than its x86 cousins. Mac cases also tend to be built with convection cooling in mind with vents on back and sides unlike most solid metal cases sold for use as x86 machines. The inside of my G3 didn't start running at all warm until I installed a VooDoo5/5500 card (that thing pumps out some heat).
I'm not looking to start a war here, but this is simply just one aspect of the Mac that most people seem to like: the cases. Many articles and revires pine over the Mac's enclosures, wishing some generic case vendor would attempt something like that for the modders on the x86 side.
Re:Using the wrong computers? (Score:3, Interesting)
And the 6400/6500 case is anything but "easy to open". You need a special tool (a case splitter) -- otherwise you have to nearly rip the calluses off your fingertips (after your fingernails go first) straining to pull the front off. When you hear the sudden, loud CRACK sound, loud enough to suspect you broke something, then you've got the front off.
Like a lot of pre-Steve macs, the fasteners are all made of plastic or very weak metal, so unless you go carefully, you can easily break a Mac case where it will never close again properly. The PowerPC cases are great examples of the this. Everything, from the card guides for the NuBus cards to the tabs that hold the motherboard in place are made of very fragile plastic. If you're ever working inside a Mac made from about 94 to 99, be careful!
Macs have this ridiculously undeserved reputation for having great cases that are easy to work with and won't cut you. This is pure hype. The aluminum flashing inside a Mac case as RF shielding tends to get bent up as you open and close the case and is hard to straighten. I've been working inside some PowerMac and said to myself "Hey, what's that little maroon bead on the motherboard..." before I realised I was bleeding. On the upside, the shielding is sharp enough to make a clean cut.
SOME macs do have good cases, but most do not. Most require special tools (like torx wrenches) and a reasonable understanding of electronics, especially the Macs with built-in monitors (like not electrocuting yourself on the CRT). The recent macs once Jobs was back at the helm have much, much better cases than almost every mac that Apple ever made. If you have basic PC building skills, than a post-iMac era Apple machine should make you feel right at home. For all the earlier ones, read up on the specific model before you do anything. They're no worse to work on than cheap clone PCs, but they have their own unique gotchas that are sometimes so wierd, proprietary, and/or dumb, it's best just not to guess.
Apple kind of runs under this idea that the computer they are selling you is actually an _appliance_, which should run reliably as designed (not that it will). But if it doesn't, you're expected to "take it to the dealer" and have them fix it, like a car or television (which nobody does, because you'll get ripped off or have to bring it back multiple times). That's the only way they're managerie of case designs make any sense, is if a trained Apple Service tech is the only one whose ever supposed to open it.
I wouldn't buy any mac unless I already had the directions on how to open it up and work inside. That will give you an idea how many proprietary plastic parts you might have to buy from Apple for $10-$40 each if you muck around inside. If they're still available. That's what I advise people who ask me advice about what mac they should get, especially for people buying used macs.
There are controller cards that do this (Score:3, Interesting)
fan speed sensing (Score:3, Insightful)
Perhaps more applicable in this case is that these boards also offer inputs for fan speed sensing when used with an appropriate fan (generally the ones with 3 wires and a small tach sensor built in). Unfortunately, I have yet to see a power supply that comes with such a fan and provides the sensor feedback to go back to the motherboard. (I'm not saying they don't make them, just in my limited experience I haven't seen any.) If you could find the right size fan with the speed sensor you should be able to install it in the power supply and route it to the MB though. If there was enough demand voiced I expect the sensor would start showing up, but manufacturers would have to know that some people we basing case purchases on this feature.
This doesn't help older systems like this Tiger system much, but the issue has been addressed. There also have been available for quite some time temperature sensors that you installed in the case and they would sound an alarm when a critical temperature was reached. Several years ago I had a programmer build some watchdog timers for some critical systems with PIC chips and we decided to add a Dallas temperature sensor. By tapping on the reset button a few times you could get it to beep the internal case temperature back to you.(Obviously, you didn't reset the computer - the watchdog took over the MB reset input so it could reboot the system if it detected a failure. A long press of the reset could still reset the system through the PIC chip.)
This is reasonably timely for me, just yesterday I started getting alarms that my CPU fan was erratically slowing down. So far CPU temp looks good, but I'm going to have to replace the fan (if I can find an available fan of the right size with a speed sensor) or the whole heat sink assembly. I do have another 12 volt fan with the right hole pattern, but it lacks the speed sensor and is much thicker. Maybe I could find some really long metal screws and stack both fans above the heat sink, count on the new one to cool the CPU, but the old one to help and to continue to monitor the RPM and airflow. Any thoughts?
Switch off? (Score:2)
Happened to me.. (Score:2)
real danger (Score:2)
The power supply will burn itself out before it catches anything on fire. "Dust bunnies" are highly combustible but they typically don't burn long enough, only a couple of seconds, to catch anything else on fire. The real danger with the computer is probably the power strip. Make sure you spring for a good quality, UL listed power strip. The cheap ones make poor connection with the plug and use smaller-gauge wire internally and for the cord, thus increasing the risk of fire under heavy load.
maru
Extra Crispy (Score:2)
His system was an Athlon 1.4 with SCSI, a Radeon, lots of RAM and other suitably expensive stuff (at the time), excepting the NIC. The NIC was a generic cheapo and for some unknown reason it decided to spontaneously burst into flames.
If it wasn't for the various case fans blowing the smoke out into the house, we wouldn't have known. Luckily we got to it before the rest of the PC (and potentially the house) followed suit. The motherboard and the NIC were the only things that needed replacing, but we took the hint and replaced all our cheapo NICs with hopefully less flammable 3Coms.
It was a lucky escape and it certainly made us think twice about leaving our boxen running 24/7, especially unattended. Flammability isn't something I usually take into consideration when buying components. Suffice to say, no more Happy Value components for me.
Oh, and if anyone's wondering; The smell of a burning PC is very nasty. Incredibly, the OS was still alive before I cut the power. I'm also persuaded that if we had bought a cheapo case with poor ventilation, the component death toll would have been much higher. Heh.. maybe those watercooling monkeys can set up an internal sprinkler system or something. Hahah.
Fire Hazard Indeed! (Score:2, Interesting)
The first was a dual-processor Pentium II board that caught fire around an inductor about a year ago. Thankfully, the case was closed and the little blaze starved itself of oxygen, and was fairly controlled. It was a small fire around the inductor, so it was going nowhere, although several nearby chips actually popped off the board. See the pictures, if you dare:
Burnout 1 [newchibacity.com]
Burnout 2 [newchibacity.com]
Burnout 3 [newchibacity.com]
Yeah, it was pretty nasty. My room was filled with smoke for a day or so, even with the window open and a fan blowing exhaust out my window.
The second was the ATX connector on a Pentium III motherboard actually heating up to the point of melting both the connector on the board and the connector on the power supply, so all that was left was a mess of molten plastic and some bare pins. Needless to say, both the power supply and motherboard were thrown in my local dumpster.
Anyone have similar experience? Or am I just an unlucky bastard?
Fried PC (Score:2)
Being kind of doubtful, and suspecting user stupidity, I cracked it open, and found nothing wrong...supposedly. I then popped the cover off the power supply, to find some nice char.
A bit more testing found that the motherboard would take _no_ power. I had picked up the machine from her house, so I knew the power was fine, and she was also using an excellent surge unit.
The PC was a bottom of the line Gateway, with a no-name power supply. Not suprising.
P4 does it well (Score:3, Insightful)
don't run your computer open (Score:3, Informative)
Computers are not designed or approved to be run open. It's a stupid thing to do if you are afraid of fire--they get less air circulation, they run hotter, and if they catch fire, the fire can more easily spread. Running your computer open also violates FCC rules because it will cause lots of interference, affecting radio operators, police and fire communications, baby monitors, and medical equipment.
Computers are designed with metal cases for good reasons: they allow the fans to work, they conduct heat, they keep RF inside, and they offer some protection against fire. Don't run your computer open--it's just stupid.
Thermal monitering software (Score:3, Informative)
Honkey Crap (Score:3, Informative)
Keep your system clean! (Score:2, Insightful)
Re:Not likely. (Score:2)
Re:Simple Solutions. (Score:5, Informative)
Your much better off just buying cans of "compressed air" (it's actually not air per se).
Re:Simple Solutions. (Score:2)
Just make sure the air compressor isn't spitting some liquid out with the air (many spit some water vapor as well).
Re:Simple Solutions. (Score:2)
Air compressors are so much fun for cleaning computers. Try aiming the output directly at a fan. Spins faster than it was ever designed :). Yeah, I know it's not smart... but it's FUN!
Doing that will likely destroy the bearings, so you'll be replacing those fans soon, too. Please, if you're going to use compressed air to clean out the computer, stop the fans from moving so that you don't destroy them.
Re:It's happened to me.. (Score:2)
Mac OS does this (Score:3, Informative)
But I guess you get what you pay for, since Macs can be significantly more expensive.
How easy would it be to integrate that sort of thing into all the flavors of Windows or into Linux?
Re:Mac OS does this (Score:2)
Re:It's happened to me.. (Score:2, Funny)
VIRUS WARNING:
Attention: Computer Labs Inc., makers of Virucide antivirus software have identified a highly dangerous new Trojan worm, MONKEYPOO. It will usually appear in an e-mail with the subject, "Congratulations.You have won!" it will then prompt you to click a link to collect your cash prize. It can also freely spread across networks.
Monkeypoo will read your address book, and mail a copy of itself to every address it finds, and it will look like you sent it. It will then invoke the secret self-destruct command held over from the original IBM PC's 8086 command set. This short line of code will cause the processor, ram, hard drive and any floppy drives to spin out of control and overheat until key components melt together, and will most likely cause a fire.
James Winklee, a former IBM programmer had this to say. "We developed the self-destruct code so government agencies such as the FBI and CIA could quickly and completely destroy compromised computer systems before an enemy could get their hands on classified information. When we saw how violently a PC executing the command burst into flames, we decides not to publish it's existence. It has been kept a secret successfully until now. If you get infected with the Monkeypoo Trojan worm, you may notice your computer going completely haywire. Physically unplug it from power as fast as you can, and send it in for repair. Only a professional can remove this one."
While Computer Labs Inc and other antivirus software makers are working on a solution, they haven't got one a home user could successfully run yet. "This is the worst kind of malicious code I have ever seen." said Marcus Polan of Computer labs Inc. Use extreme caution.
It is important that as many computer users as possible receive this warning, so send it out to as many people as you can. The entire Internet and every PC connected to it is at risk.
An hour? (Score:2)
Re:no more halon (Score:2)
It's cheaper, and much less likely to kill you.
Sorry, but the concentration of CO2 that is necessary to put out a fire is also insufficient to support human life. The neat thing about Halon is that it doesn't do immediate harm to humans at the concentration that puts out a fire, as long as you leave the area quickly. I knew somebody who was in a room when Halon was accidentally released, and it had no effect on him ...
Re:Don't worry, be happy... (Score:2)
All computer power supplies have temperature sensors.
You may be an MCSE, but you're no electronics guru. I've got four different manufacturer's AT and ATX power supplies here, open, and none have thermal sensors.
Now there's a really expensive one in my server which does, but it uses it to regulate how fast to spin the fan. I see fuses, MOVs, NTCs and the usual array of electronic devices in these power supplies. That's it.
Re:Don't worry, be happy... (Score:2)