CainX writes
"A comparison of five power supply units was posted recently. Anandtech has done a more complete review and examined 18 of the newest models in the plus 300 watt range." Power supplies tend to be one of those forgotten, but ever so important parts of machine construction.
What's the deal on the Antec 330W and P4? (Score:3, Insightful)
The dude writes that the 204W at 12V isn't enough for a P4 for he writes that ONLY for the Antec 330 and its 204W is more than most of the other PSes put out on that rail. It's crap like that that make the WHOLE thing suspect.
.
Re:What's the deal on the Antec 330W and P4? (Score:5, Informative)
PC Power and Cooling is very good, but their supplies are more expensive than Antec and are usually noisier.
Antec seems expensive and limited to me. (Score:2)
Antec does NOT make power supplies. The buy them from a Chinese manufacturer, I forget who. I have never liked Antec supplies, they seem very expensive and often limited in features.
Try KingWin supplies. Read about them, and other power supply issues, in my other post, Think carefully about paying more. [slashdot.org]
Reliable comments: (Score:2)
Be careful. The AnandTech article and the comments to the Slashdot article are full of mis-information. Here are reliable comments:
Not wanting to put a downer on things..., #6664769 (Poster says he runs a review lab.) [slashdot.org]
Design Engineer, Power Supplies, Computers, #6665630 [slashdot.org]
Bad power supply tests, #6666617 [slashdot.org]
and my own comment. Read why I think the memory tests are not reality, but a sales tool: Think carefully about paying more, #6667576 [slashdot.org]
Re:What's the deal on the Antec 330W and P4? (Score:2)
Nothing overclocked, I grant you, but...
--
Forgotten Power Supplies... (Score:5, Funny)
DOH! NOW I know why my home build PC isn't working. I also made the "often made" mistake of forgetting the Power Supply.
I'm glad to know this is a common mistake and not just me being stupid.
Just get a Mac (Score:2, Funny)
Re:Forgotten Power Supplies... (Score:4, Interesting)
I was looking at building a Dual Athlon system on a Tyan motherboard with a few hard drives.
Essentially to cut a long story short, this combination requires a VERY HIGH power rating on the 5 volt rail. Some 550W power supply don't cut it, Enermax units below 400W were uncertain, while Antec's 350W or better are fine.
I went for an Antec 430W and their server case. 8 fans all attached to the "special" fan rail which adjusts their speed according to conditions keeps the computer humming.
Corsair ECC memory, HD's with 3 year warranty help with stability aswell.
Bottom line: Win2k - never had a BSOD (Blue Screen).Linux is obviously rock steady aswell.
I would have considered an Asus or Gigabyte motherboard. Kingston, Micron or Infineon RAM. Chieftec or Thermaltake case. BUT the power supply had to a very good one
Re:Forgotten Power Supplies... (Score:2)
you mean it won't work ?
(uptime is now around 150 days)
Re:Forgotten Power Supplies... (Score:2)
RC
Antec supplies seem extremely expensive to me. (Score:2)
"BUT the power supply had to a very good one
Antec supplies seem extremely expensive to me. I've never noted any extra value.
Re:Forgotten Power Supplies... (Score:2)
I actually have 'solved' problems on IRC help channels where the person said that their computer would not power up no matter what they did. The solution of course was to flip the power switch on the back of the PSU ;-)
How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2, Interesting)
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2)
There should be some device he could pick up at a local electornics store that could measure the amount of power the machine is using right?
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:4, Informative)
Search froogle for "Kill A Watt". I've got one and it works surprisingly well. Good luck finding it at any stores nearby. It's even a bit of a rarety online. (Check solar or radio shops)
As I posted in a reply to his comment, my XP 2000+ is using up almost exactly 100watts, obviously that may vary a bit, but not much. Even an old 166MHz system of mine is using up about 60 watts. Interesting not though... Notebooks are FAR, FAR more power effecient. My 1.2GHz PIII Notebook with 10+" screen is only using up 19watts normally, and up to 32watts at moments with intensive processing or harddrive reads.
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:5, Informative)
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2)
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/power-supply.
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:4, Informative)
Yo, moderators: Bring this up!!! (Score:2)
I have been looking for one of these things for ages. I keep thinking I'll have to make one eventually, because I couldn't find a commercial one.
I searched for watt meters. I searched for power consumption devices. I searched for everything under the sun that might come up with these things, and came up blank every time. Now I plug in the brand name, and about fifty hits come up.
Thanks. Going to see if anyone locally carries them, and get one ASAP.
Re:Yo, moderators: Bring this up!!! (Score:2)
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2, Informative)
Computer Refrigerator (Score:2)
I think their numbers are a little high, though. By their calculations, I should be paying $30/month just for the computer (which is on 24/7), yet I'm paying about $30/month for everything.
Re:Computer Refrigerator (Score:2)
Your computer is probably using up about 100watts, not 400, so divide all their stupid figures by 4 (and you should also use your own kilowatt/hour rates, not theirs).
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2)
In my 1-bedroom condo, my non-heating/cooling bill is about $17/month. That includes TWO computers running full time (one with a 400W supply: an Athlon XP 1900+; the other is a Pentium 133 used as an MP3 player), with a third computer that I frequently leave run on weekends. It also includes my stove, refrigerator, lights, television, DVR, fish tank with heater and filter
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2)
I agree.
I'm not sure what you mean by a "not-heating/cooling bill", but you obviously don't live in California, where rates are still rather high. Not to say that it's not silly...
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:2)
--RJ
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:3, Insightful)
I have no idea, it could be from 1-400watts depending on the system.
Your friend's parents are idiots. Even if it was drawing 400watts, that could be recouped by just shutting a handful of light
Re: (Score:2)
Re:Clarification and additional thoughts. (Score:2)
Re: (Score:2)
Re: (Score:2)
Re:How much power is drawn from the wall? (Score:5, Informative)
memory faults (Score:5, Interesting)
Re:memory faults (Score:2)
Re:memory faults (Score:3, Informative)
I dont think the added time is a proper measure of increased reliability.
anyway, PSUs are overrated. I have used elchepos to the top quality units, and found differences in voltages, but not performance.
I buy for sound now. But of course I dont run any high performance / demand servers either.
Re:memory faults (Score:2)
Really??? 3 replicates of every test on a single sample. I haven't done the maths, but looking at the numbers I reckon some proper statistics on those memory test numbers would show up very little, if any at all, statistically significant difference.
Re:memory faults (Score:2)
These errors sould not appear in a system no matter how poor your supply is
Re:memory faults (Score:2)
I dunno, the MTBF in RAM for any particular bit may be 100+ years, but once you apply such statistics on a system with multigigabite RAM, I wouldn't be too surprised to find a bit flip in a days's time.
I would like more information on the test system, RAM brand, etc.
Re:memory faults (Score:2)
There is no way you would accept your computer crashing every hour. A bit change in the program memory will cause wrong behaviour and most of the time crash the application. If its in the data than it wont crash but it will corrupt a lot of important info.
No way a computer would be useful with that sort of failure happening every hour. This would need heavy error correction.
PLEASE NOTE Re:memory faults (Score:2)
MTBF means Mean Time Between Failure, NOT Mean Time Between Errors. What you are seeing is not a failure every hour or so, it's a certain number of memory errors during the specified test period. It's not amazing nor appalling that any of these supplies have the system generating an occaisional m
Re:PLEASE NOTE Re:memory faults (Score:3, Interesting)
ECC might protect you and parity will simply allow you to crash out safely.
Unless it was dont care memory this error would cause a failure of some form.
I have run memory tests with quite dodgey memory, power supplies, fans etc. over periods of many hours and these errors do normaly not occur.
Unless you went out to buy eec memory for your computer because you are scared these sort of error might occur over the lifetime of your machine then you
Other types of power supplies? (Score:2, Interesting)
Not quite as amusing as dansdata.com, but... (Score:5, Interesting)
A bit more explaining the basics of what each different voltage rail is for and why x-level of performance is important would have been helpful. Along with some more basic stats, such as how long the power cables actually are -- surely people still build full-tower PCs, don't they?
External supplies (Score:2, Interesting)
Re:External supplies (Score:5, Informative)
When wiring up electrical systems, it is important to remember that your long runs should always be done with high voltage cable. For instance, from the wall to the power supply is 120V AC. Once the voltage is reduced, the runs need to be kept as short as possible, since every foot of cable loses substantially more power at the increased current required.
50 watts at 120 volts is less than half an amp. 50 watts at 12V is about 4A. Big difference. }:)
Re:External supplies (Score:3, Insightful)
When wiring up electrical systems, it is important to remember that your long runs should always be done with high voltage cable. For instance, from the wall to the power supply is 120V AC. Once the voltage is reduced, the runs need to be kept as short as possible, since every foot of cable loses substantially more power at the increased current required.
Well, you have to also factor in that AC travels much better than DC. That debate goes back to Edison and Telsa, and Telsa got it right. That's why you
Re:External supplies (Score:2)
AC is subject to the "skin effect", whereby more of the current flows toward the outside surface of the conductor. However, the skin effect is pretty insignificant at 60Hz.
The reason why AC is used for mains power is because its voltage can be adjusted very efficiently using a very inexpensive and reliable device: The transformer. If you put DC into a transformer, you
Re:External supplies (Score:2)
I've had EEs tell me that normal high-voltage power lines are all DC. 0_o
The interesting thing is that now that there are better methods for stepping up DC voltages to high levels, you're seeing more DC power lines.
Generally, those lines are used to connect together various segments of the electrical grid that aren't properly wired together via normal high-voltage lines. Its a way to more easily transfer power to where it is needed and thus increase the overall effici
Re:External supplies (Score:2)
Re:External supplies (Score:2)
Not if you must pass FCC (or CE in the rest of the world) radio frequency emissions tests.
Those wires are going to radiate both the switching noise from the power supply and noise from the motherboard. They must remain inside the steel case to have any chance of ever getting the radiated EMI under the FCC class B limit, which is required for sale to consumers for use in homes. Even the higher class A limit (allows more noise, for business use wh
Re:External supplies (Score:2)
28 pages? Give me a break. (Score:5, Informative)
Re:28 pages? Give me a break. (Score:2)
It would seen that they are wasting their bandwidth just to get 28 ad exposures, with each "page" having only two paragraphs worth of comments and reloading their huge menu bars every time. Why do hardware sites have to be so ugly and absurd?
Not wanting to put a downer on things... (Score:5, Insightful)
After all, some of the measurements taken to distinguish good from bad were to the fifth significant figure. It strikes me that if you have to be that precise to differentiate between the winners and the also-rans then you've got to test more than one of each PSU - three would be a minimum, five or more would be better - and average out the test results to give you figures that are more representative of the quality of these products.
After all, not every Zalman ZM400A-APF is going to have a 12V min/max fluctuation of only 0.005V, and not every Enermax EG651P-VE FMA 550W is going to have a fluctuaction of 0.65V. Who knows, perhaps this was just a particularly good Zalman and a particularly bad Enermax? Testing more units means accurate results, which is a good thing.
I appreciate that testing three (or five, or however many) of each PSU means more work - you have to get x many more of each unit, test x many more times, process x much more data before averaging out your results - but, sometimes, I think it's warranted. Without wanting to get down on anyone, I'd like to suggest that, where called for, they try to source more units and test more thoroughly.
And, before people start flaming me for not knowing what I'm talking about, how much work is involved, etc, let me just say that I've run a review lab and I do know what I'm talking about, how much work is involved, etc. It's not a trivial amount but, sometimes, it is worth it.
(No doubt that's just a cue for half a dozen people to tell me where I'm wrong. I welcome objective criticisms but you can keep any childish flames.)
Re:Not wanting to put a downer on things... (Score:2)
After all, not every Zalman ZM400A-APF is going to have a 12V min/max fluctuation of only 0.005V, and not every Enermax EG651P-VE FMA 550W is going to have a fluctuaction of 0.65V.
If the fluctuations are due to the switching power supply and regulator design, then yes these measurements are going to be similar on other samples of these models (assuming no revision changes).
Modern electronics components are amazing reliable and consistent as long you don't use surplus parts (or capacitors made from inco [ieee.org]
I agree totally except... (Score:2)
Publish each supplies results, averages and deviations.
My computer (Dual Athlon on Tyan mobo) hammers the 5 V rail, so test on a few motherbords with quirks would help aswell.
People usually get a 550W supply to power multiple hard disks, usually in a raid configuration. They should have done this aswell.
Lastly, there is a variety in case designs. They should have tried a few cases and test for temperature and noise levels.
Re:Not wanting to put a downer on things... (Score:2)
Overall, a very poor article. The reviewer is known for poor, and unscientific reviews on anandtech. I don't know why they let him print his articles on that website. Usually Anandtech knows not to print crap that isn't sound.
If you look up that reviewer's past articles (mostly on aluminum cases) he goes through the same crap. Testing
Where's the EE beef? (Score:5, Interesting)
I'll take a smaller review with decent scientific methodologies, thank you very much. There's more to stability of a power supply than "interference testing" which reports an integer number of errors that could be caused by anything... What about the thermal testing... where was it measured? by what, the onboard mainboard thermistor, which is notably unreliable? Which "industry standard Chenming case" was it?
I really, really, really wish that these hardware sites would hire people with a decent understanding of the discipline of science - let alone engineering! - to write reviews. I could make MUCH more informed decisions.
-Ben
But, it is the first where stabilty is shown. (Score:2)
That is a mucht better test than tom [tomshardware.com] did: Just put a lot of load on a PSU and see if it dies. If it dies in flames then take a picture of it and put it on the front page. (Since it did not flame like the picture it is a fake)
That is also better than the test of ars-technica: put a scope on the powerline and show the ripple. This looks horrible, but if
Re: (Score:2)
Altogether now... (Score:3, Insightful)
You could argue that people running servers should care even less, because they normally have redundant PSUs.
/me dons asbestos pants
Re:Altogether now... (Score:3, Interesting)
The power supply fan has always been louder than the CPU fan in my computers. I had a generic 300 W PSU that I thought was too loud. I replaced it with a PC Power & Cooling "Silencer" that was just as loud. I later got an "ultra-quiet" QTechnology PSU from Quiet PC. Little, if any, improvement. Noise is important to some people, and it appears to be a difficult problem to solve.
Not too long ago, 300 W PSUs were considered extravagant, but it's
Re:Altogether now... (Score:4, Interesting)
I'm sorry... maybe you should look into quieter CPU fans in the future? Personally, the Zalman flower fans look very attractive to me... not in a visual sense, but an auditory one.
They make no difference to performance
They certainly do. Inadequate power supplies can cause system lockups and shorten lifespan of components due to improper voltage regulation... sure, that card can run with the 3.3V line at 3.6V, but you think that's not going to have some effects down the line?
Put enough components in a system and you'll find out fast how much PSUs matter. Stick in 4 or 5 HDs and your system may not even power up -- even with a 400W PSU. Why? Because that "400W" PSU only has a 10A 12V line, which is utterly inadequate to spin up more than one drive along with a modern P4 or Athlon. Realistically it shouldn't even be used then, because you're well over 80% draw -- at which point voltage irregularities and noise concerns become a bigger problem. That system lockup? Yeah... it was caused by your CPU going wacky. Which was caused by the power supply introducing so much noise that the motherboard voltage regulators couldn't filter it out and fed the CPU bad power.
You're talking about another $30 to get a decent PSU... it's not going to break the bank.
Re:Altogether now... (Score:3, Funny)
Personally, the Zalman flower fans look very attractive to me... not in a visual sense, but an auditory one.
They look very attractive in an auditory sense? I think I see what you're saying....
Re:Altogether now... (Score:2)
Personally if I'm spending that much money on components for my system I like to have a decent power supply to run them and the knowledge that if I do screw up and overload it it will just shut down nicely:
Re:Altogether now... (Score:2)
That's a big ME TOO here. Although I usually go for the second-cheapest after checking the full specs.
Same here currently, that's why I just invested in a Volcano 9. Extremely quiet at low speeds, and less noisy than my current CPU fan when it's at full speed, and twice the (CFM) airflow. Besides, it's the cheapest good CPU fan I could find.
Also
Re:Altogether now... (Score:2)
2 motherboards
1 CPU
2 hard drives
5(!) network cards
2 CD-Rom drives
these were out of three computers. One of these computers has a top of the line PS in it, as well as being hooked up to a UPS. That particular computer had 1 network card blow (some kinda surge hit our cable modem, took out the modem, router, and 2 network cards).
These experiences have taught me that power supplies do indeed matter. S
Hours repairing a system thanks to a cheap PSU (Score:2)
Sorry to burst your bubble, but I *HOPE* it's just you.
For the last YEAR I've been fighting all kinds of system instability, basically ever since I upgraded to a high-speed Athlon motherboard. I naturally thought it was mobo related. I was having crashes about every 10 minutes of heavy dual-drive activity (any time I was copying large files from CD-to-drive, or drive-to-drive, and it happened in both D
No dB ratings? (Score:4, Insightful)
Less clicking, at any rate.
As a requisite disclaimer for the "It's Just Fine For Me" folks: While it may be true that certain electronic components are being engineered to be quieter, it's still the case that manufacturers rarely advertise/publish noise levels. The fact that there is a booming cottage industry devoted to quieter replacement components is evidence enough that manufacturers haven't yet fully addressed the needs of computer owners who are starting to discover that their nagging headaches and frequent innability to concentrate is due in large part to that box under their desks.
Re:No dB ratings? (Score:3, Insightful)
Yes? [anandtech.com]
As we said last time... (Score:2, Insightful)
Who cares? More to the point, who cares about articles that decide reliability based on a sample size of one?
Are we just killing time while we wait for the next SCO rant?
For anyone who thinks PS don't matter (Score:5, Informative)
So I spent a Saturday trying to find a local computer dealer open that had any power supplies in stock. Most were sold out because of recent lightning storms (note: most didn't fail right away), anyhow about 2 hours of looking and driving I found a Codegen 300W ATX supply. It didn't setup off the SilentPC power alarms, but it failed the stress testing, with errors in about 1 hour of testing. The CPU temperature was fine (40-42 C) but I suspect the power wasn't clean which introduced memory or logic glitches.
Finally after a week, I got a ThermalTake 360W power supply and my system works fine.
So anyone who has an unstable system, it may not be all the fault of the OS, but poor or underpowered power supply.
Re:For anyone who thinks PS don't matter (Score:2)
Although it's possible that you were having a power supply problem, believe it or not, it sounds more like your mobo is poor, and very picky about power.
I do buy very cheap power supplies, and after hundreds of them, not a single one has had a running problem (a few didn't power-on though).
It's not likely at all that the
When we remember about power supplies... (Score:3, Interesting)
Here [google.pl] you can see why you should pay more attention when buying supply...
Fan (Score:2)
Re:Fan (Score:2)
Card power requirements? Warning lights? (Score:4, Interesting)
Why doesn't every card and component in a system have a clearly marked indication of its power requirement?
And why don't power supplies issue unmistakable warnings when the system draws more power than the supply can reliably provide?
Every fuse and circuit breaker in a house has the amperage clearly marked on it, and so does every appliance.
Why can't the insides of our computers come up to the same standards as our toasters and washing machines? This isn't rocket science, this is simple arithmetic.
Re:Card power requirements? Warning lights? (Score:2)
Power Supplies Affect Stability (Score:2, Informative)
Don't underestimate the importance of power supplies, nor assume because the box says "400W" that it really is, nor assume that any particular rail - +12V, +5V, +3.3V has the current you need. Sagging voltages on any rail can have mysterious effects that you will otherwise blame on your motherboard, the BIOS, memory, cards or the OS.
I was the victim of an underpowered power supply when I upgraded my motherboard, and of course, I blamed the motherboard. Of course, my suspicions we
Quality power can not be stressed enough... (Score:4, Interesting)
After about 6 months use, I had one make a popping sound, then erupt in smoke. All I had in the box was dual 700 cpus, 6 scsi drives, 2 ide drives, cdrw, GF3, and a bunch of neon lights. During that time, the system would freeze up a lot, usually while compiling.
Basically 450 watts doesn't mean as much as the quality of components and how cloesly the manufacturer was willing to run them to the point of breakage.
I swapped out my burnt 450 watt for a Antec cool blue running at around 400 watts and my system is quieter and never locks up anymore.
When reading wattages of cheap PSU's remind yourself of audio equipment. Like when a brand like Sparkomatic or Jensen promises 1000 watts out of an amp only for it to sound like shiat and blow speakers. Meanwhile, a Bose amp of 75 watts would be generating more power overall and not be tearing your speakers up. The same game is played with PSU promises. They, the generic cheapies, never planned on anyone using all 450 watts of their equipment. These big number, low performance parts are meant for a consumer with a very basic system seeking comfort big specs.
I guess it reinforces 'You get what you pay for'.
My PSU (Score:2)
When my computer is off, the PSU switch in the back is also off. I turn on the PSU switch, and then press the case button. Drives spin up, fans come on, but no screen. No USB. No beeps.
However, if I 'rock' the PSU switch, causing the system to 'brownout', the system will boot just fine, but I have to 'rock' the switch just
Re:My PSU (Score:3, Informative)
When motors start up they have to get over the standing still friction of the unit before they get over the hump of startup and then into the lower friction of a moving unit. I would put in a nice graph but slashdot won't let me.
What the graph looks like is there's a rise up to a peak. Doing an integration under the line to the peak gives you the force needed to get to the peak. This is the force
Re:My PSU (Score:2)
> might be a bit dated
A little over 6 for me, I know how you feel.
As for his in-rush problem (I'm pretty sure that's exactly what it is, BTW), depending on his SCSI drives and controllers, he may be able to get the controller to spin them up one at a time after the controller's BIOS has initialized (and hence all the fans, etc are running).
Back in the day, the Adaptec-1542 supported this if you hit Ctrl-A during boot-up and walked the
Wattage hype? (Score:2, Insightful)
Don't these systems peak at something like 200-250w (with 3d card suckin juice, and 100% cpu usage, etc).
Why the hell would you pay $150 or so for a 450 or 500w (or more!) system? Unless you're running multiple CPUs or some sort of file server with a whole bunch of drives... I just don't see the point, it's just go
Design Engineer, Power Supplies, Computers (Score:5, Informative)
Power supplies have an actual efficiency of about 75%, and no better than 90%, no matter what brand, Efficiency varies with loading.
Quick spin-up on hard drives takes about 5 times as much 12V power as is required for running, but little 5V change.
The actual voltage needed by components is not nearly so critical as the amount of noise (ripple and "switching" noise. (These are switching power supplies.) The nearest thing to a noise measurement test was the memory test.
Output regulation is also dependent on the loading of the 5 volts or 3.3 volt outputs. Expect the 12 volts to follow the 5 volts as the processor and MB requires more or less computing power during operation. Some are independent, but most are not.
Things like temperature testing can be very meaningless. Most components are designed for operation at an ambient of more than 70 degrees Celcius. The switching transistors will produce the most heat, but a small capacitor setting downstream in the airflow may be the first long term failure. Probably input to output is the best indication.
Note also that the power supply fan sucks hot air from the PC and sends it over power supply components before exhausting to the outside air.
The one test I found most interesting was the memory test, and although I am not sure of the methods used, the results do indicate overall performance. (Yes, I have also designed memorys and been involved it testing of memory chips with walking ones and zeros and checkerboard patterns etc. Without knowing which row of memory transistors is adjacent to the one being used, pattern testing is basically meaningless except for one word at a time.
A few years ago I took a Sparkle (SPI) power supply and a Fortran power supply apart and the insides were identical - completely. Fortran was about $3 more in hundreds at the time. My guess is that they were made on the same production line. Are they the same or had one just been copied.
The power supply continuous output rating should be the one used when talking about a 300 watt power supply, not the power line rating.
Finally, audible noise. Bigger fans, lower speed, less noise. Fans mounted on the inside instead of near the back panel produce less noise.
Fans blowing onto holes instead of through a circular guard produce more noise.
Re:Design Engineer, Power Supplies, Computers-Outs (Score:2)
Then the power supply would be blowing heated air INTO the computer, where cooling is needed the most. Not a smart idea.
BTW The power supply really should be at the bottom of the case not the top, since heat rises.
Hot air rises, in the presence of relatively still cooler air. This is a relatively small effect in the presence of fans forcing airflow.
Nonetheless, the slight buoyant force causing heated air to rise also helps it reach the power s
Forgotten...again (Score:2)
That's why they make an appearance on
Lite-On 300W PS OEM for Compaq (Server-Class) (Score:2)
Be careful with "cheap" power supplies (Score:2, Insightful)
Plus three hundred watt? Darn... (Score:2)
Bad power supply tests (Score:5, Informative)
Tests they didn't do, and should have:
Checking the UL database is easy. Check any power supplies you have, and if the E-number isn't in the database or doesn't match the unit, report it to UL and have a serious talk with the seller.
Nothing Anandtech did seemed to use a 'scope, let alone a spectrum analyzer.
Think carefully about paying more. (Score:3, Informative)
More and more companies are basing their business plans on taking advantage of the overclocker, gamer, case modder, or PC enthusiast who doesn't have much technical knowledge. These have slick sales literature and fancy graphics. They also may have no one at the company who knows or cares about the technical details of the product. I feel qualified to say this because, back when I was an electrical engineer, I have designed power supplies and industrial power control devices.
"Monster cables" won't give you better audio than cheap wire of the same gauge. Similarly, paying a lot of money for a power supply is very unlikely to get you any difference in computer performance, provided you buy a quality low-cost supply.
We pay $26 wholesale for our 350 Watt KingWin Kwi-350W power supplies, and they are fine. Froogle.google.com says they can be bought retail for $32 [google.com]. The AnandTech article discusses the Kingwin KWI-450, which they say costs $95. Why didn't they review the supply from Kingwin that is 1/3 the cost?
One guess is that the entire AnandTech article is a hidden Directron.com advertisement. Maybe Directron.com does not want you to know that you don't need to pay more, and that you will derive no benefit from giving Directron more profit.
The AnandTech article says, "Directron.com [directron.com] let us pick one of every new power supply off their shelves in order to put together a sample of 18 of the newer power supplies on the market right now."
The article says about the Kingwin KWI-450WABK [anandtech.com], "We received our quad fan Kingwin supply well before the TTGI units had hit American soil. The unit was well received in the lab, but as we noticed when the TTGI units arrived, practically identical in construction. TTGI and Kingwin obtain their components from the same manufacturers in Taiwan."
"Practically identical" does NOT mean identical. Directron's 350 Watt TTGI TT-350SS [yahoo.com] is $28.99. It looks a lot like the KingWin 350 Watt supply, but is different; the TTGI supply does not have most of the labels that are on the KingWin supply, for example.
Look below at that link for what Directron says about their warranty: "Customer is responsible for returning defective products including DOA due to manufacturer unless testing is paid before shipping." DOA means "Dead on Arrival". Very clearly, Directron says that they do NOT stand behind their products.
Directron's warranty may be translated as, "If what we ship you doesn't work, tough luck, don't bother mentioning it to Directron, you are on your own, complain to the manufacturer, and pay the shipping costs to where the manufacturer is located, but we won't tell you in advance where that is, because you might buy directly from the manufacturer." Only if you pay more will Directron stand behind what they ship. So the true cost is not $28.99, unless you want to take your chances.
I suspect, and I have plenty of evidence, that when companies ask you to pay more for testing if you want a warranty from them, you get absolutely no testing. What you get is only the right to return a DOA unit to them.
Notice something else about that Directron page. The price is an image [yimg.com], not text, from a different server, yimg.com. Does anyone know why they do that? I don't.
There is plenty of evidence that the people at AnandTech have little technical understanding. Maybe the site makes money by doing things their advertisers want, which may be different from what is good for you.
The first page of the AnandTech article [anandtech.com] says, "We then ran several exhaustive tests on these pow
Re:Power Supplys (Score:5, Informative)
ThinkGeek? You are an idiot. (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Dupe (Score:2)
Re:slashdot (Score:2)
All together now: News for Nerds.
(But does it matter? I had no idea how much until I RTFA. Please don't tell anyone I RTFA.)
Re:Forgotten? (Score:2)
Let's not even start on the memory
Re:Forgotten? (Score:2)
When your cheap-ass PSU dies and shorts on the DC side, you'll have a lovely front row view of the fireworks when your HDs go up in smoke ;-)
But seriously, I despise case windows. They leak light out of the case and who knows what kind of EM radiation is escaping. Aluminium is good, yes. I just bought a Lian Li Aluminium case
From humble intentions...The PowerHog! (Score:2)
I sprung for a PCP&C silencer 425 last Dec., intending to keep my PC simple, but fretting over what size PSU I "really" needed. Most USENET groups were full of useless information which boiled down to "just throw the biggest PSU you can get" a
Re:Power upgrade (Score:2)