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Hardware

Building A (Serious) Home Network From Scratch 420

Casey Lang-Vie writes "THG are running an article that outlines how to build a home network from scratch. I wish I'd read this before I attempted - now I have a few (ok, 8) unsightly holes in my wall." This is the type of network that encourages home ownership rather than rental.
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Building A (Serious) Home Network From Scratch

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  • by ricosalomar ( 630386 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:01AM (#6337014)
    Worked for me.
  • building a? (Score:4, Funny)

    by jeffkjo1 ( 663413 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:06AM (#6337036) Homepage
    Building A (Serious) Home Network From Scratch

    Because lets face it, if you're not building a serious home network, then what are you building?
    • by Zork the Almighty ( 599344 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:55AM (#6337231) Journal
      How can they have an article about "ripping holes in your walls to deploy gigabit ethernet in the home" without a chapter on "convincing the wife" ? What combination of fighting, pleading, and nagging does Tom's Hardware reccomend ? Where are the benchmarks ? I demand to see a bar graph.
      • Re:building a? (Score:3, Insightful)

        by rodgerd ( 402 )
        It's not that hard at all if you have your own businesses that run out of home. Laying in a proper home network to share Internet access and put all your stuff on a centralised fileserver looks a lot betyter than nasty cables snaking all over the floor.
      • by Snoopy77 ( 229731 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @02:00AM (#6337401) Homepage
        It's all about the Point Management System (PMS). You endure awful movies, perform tasks around the house prior to being nagged to do it and do romantic thingys in order to score points. Points are rewarded depending on the level of commitment/endurance you demonstrated.

        For example, sitting through Titanic requires a high level of endurance and will score quite well. But if you are looking to earn enough points for a home network then you are going to have to attempt to sit through a Fried Green Tomatoes, Driving Miss Daisy Double. Even this won't get you close to earning enough points. Dishwashing, vacuuming and taking out the trash are good, but even better if you do it without being told. A romantic date to the movies is good, if dinner is thrown in even better. Dinner at Hooters is not good.

        And ofcourse, beware, points can be deducted. You must be on your best behavior. Unfortunately we cannot guarantee that any points will be retained for any period longer than a month.

        Good luck
      • by Bios_Hakr ( 68586 ) <xptical.gmail@com> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @04:19AM (#6337772)
        Ok, I'd suggest you ask your woman to give your testicles back. They are probably in here purse next to the tissues and breath mints. Then put the women and children to bed and go looking for conduit.

        If my woman doesn't like my computer shrine (currently 2 laptops, three desktops, 500ft of BRIGHT RED cat-v, and a WAP) then she knows where the door is. I just hope it doesn't hit her in the ass on her way out.

        Seriously, the only thing keeping me from being ubergeek is my wife spending money on German Smoking Men, Italian dishes, and flannel sheets. Don't get me wrong, I love all those things, but when I say $Computer_Thing is needed in my house, money is allocated.
  • I know I'm an ignorant lout here, but I'm missing on the discussion of why they went with Cat 6. It seams to me they were saying "We don't need it, it may or may not be any better, but it doesn't cost much less, so we'll go with it." Isn't paying slightly more money for something very over spec a worse use of financial resources than paying less forsomething that is slightly less over spec? Or did I miss something? It is late.
    • by drinkypoo ( 153816 ) <drink@hyperlogos.org> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:22AM (#6337097) Homepage Journal

      1. Category 6 FAQ
      2. Fat cat 6 cable pays off [news.com.au]

      In other words, it's planning for the future. Sure, you can get decent runs of gigabit ethernet over cat5e tp but what about ten gig? The day will come when you'll want to use it, and if you own the house, you may actually live to see that day :)

      If it's a rental, you're just going to do a temporary install anyway. For example, I needed to run ethernet to a back bedroom, so I put holes in the ceiling in the bedroom and the living room (where the firewall, and the switch are) and just ran some cat5 up, through the attic, and back down. But if I actually lived here, I'd want to cut a hole in the wall, install a box, drop the cable down in the wall, and do a nice clean professional-looking install - And I'd want to plan for the future. In my case that would mean installing some smooth-sided conduit so I could poke some more cable through later, but if you end up having to rip out walls or something then I would definitely put in cat6 and seriously consider fiber. I'd also certainly install some coax and terminate it with BNCs.

    • Cat 6 is more expensive than Cat5 initially. Installing Cat6 now is cheaper than installing Cat5 now and re-pulling Cat6 later if you need it. It's a matter of looking at the "big picture".

      By using Cat6 you are gambling that it will not be bypassed, and that Cat7 will not be required for the next big Ethernet speedup.
    • Well, he not only chose Cat6 over Cat5e, he also put in a 24 port switch, used two access points when he could have gotten by with one, he even considered the possibility in the future of converting the phone jacks to ethernet jacks. This guy was SERIOUSLY into future upgradeability.
  • by jkrise ( 535370 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:08AM (#6337048) Journal
    As with emerging technologies, patents, copyirghts, proprietary protocols etc. have caused much misery in home networking. Why should home networking be any different from wirelesws corporate networks?

    Just 'cos powerful folks have pumped in dollars into the WiFi thing, doesn't mean we got to rush into this latest trendy thing.

    A simple UTP based LAN is more than sufficient for home needs.
  • Too hard (Score:4, Funny)

    by Waffle Iron ( 339739 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:10AM (#6337054)
    Wall plates, contractors, planning -- feh. Do it the easy way: buy a $2.99 package of ethernet cable wall staples at Home Depot. Grab a hammer, and you can have cables routed all over your house within minutes.
    • Re:Too hard (Score:4, Funny)

      by poopdik ( 623969 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:17AM (#6337075) Journal
      Wall plates, contractors, planning -- feh. Do it the easy way: buy a $2.99 package of ethernet cable wall staples at Home Depot. Grab a hammer, and you can have cables routed all over your house within minutes.

      Staples? Then you'd need a staple gun. I'm perfectly happy just having spools of cables running free around the house, behind furniture.. over tables. I think they are happier that way too.
    • Yep- I have CAT5 snaking from the basement up three floors. Oh sure, I've got a WAP, but thats for the laptop (so I can /. while I watch tv, or do, er, something, in the bathroom, while dumping core, uhm) my other machines need WIRES.
  • Real men (Score:5, Funny)

    by pair-a-noyd ( 594371 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:13AM (#6337062)
    have 6 or 7 holes in every wall with in the house with blue wires hanging out of them.
    Wall plates? "We don need no steenkin wallplates!"

    Really now, why would anyone plan out a home network? That takes all the fun out ot it!
    I mean what's more fun than pulling wires at the last minute when you really have to have that wire.
    And then trying to untangle the whole thing when you have to trouble shoot it!

    Real men have huge tangled and matted nests of wires and they KNOW what every wire is!
    • Re:Real men (Score:3, Funny)

      by l810c ( 551591 ) *
      I've been retro-fitting our new(to us) house for the past year. A whole spool of RG6 and on my 3rd spool of Cat5e.

      Sad thing is I have over $200 worth of Quikport wall plates & cat5e, co-ax, phone, banana inserts sitting is a box. And yet I have holes in every wall with 2-6 cables sticking out.

      I keep thinking I'm going to get to the finish work, but when I have free time I keep thinking of new places to run cable. The Kitchen Desk, the kitchen counter, the porch, the garage. I'll have LCD's hangin o

    • Re:Real men (Score:5, Funny)

      by xThinkx ( 680615 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @09:41AM (#6339043) Homepage

      Real men have huge tangled and matted nests of wires...

      Horseshit, REAL MEN mod the crap out of anything they can get a computer and/or accessory into, including the house, and they know how to run cable. Real men run the cable in an organized fashion with EL wire for cable management and UV reactive paint or insulation for added decoration.

      Some plexi and a 4' x 6' hole in the wall to reveal amazingly cool wiring job is a must. Top off with cold-cathodes (since you're in the wall you can run them directly from AC) and you're sure to have the coolest freakin wall decoration ever. Talk about increasing resale value! Any uber-geek or pothead would kill for the borg or trippy look respectively. If you really wanna go cool, mount your router in the window too, but only after you've replaced all the ugly yellow LEDs with blue ones and added UV-reactive fans instead of any factory ones.

      Mod the World!... Am I the only one who believes that any thing with a case can/should be modded?

  • I don't read THG, (Score:5, Interesting)

    by $carab ( 464226 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:13AM (#6337064) Journal
    As is detailed here [amdmb.com] and here [hardocp.com], Toms Hardware recently performed a media blackout at a Public event, the Million Man Lan Party.

    They are currently threatening to sue an online journalist (who happens to be a poor college student) for libel regarding his reporting of this story. Fortunately, the friendly folks at Hardocp have stepped in to provide some legal assistance for the guy, to make sure he is not railroaded into pulling down his editorial describing THG's media shenanigans.

    Do your part for Internet Free Speech. Boycott Toms Hardware Guide.
    • Re:I don't read THG, (Score:5, Informative)

      by Osty ( 16825 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:19AM (#6337082)

      Do your part for Internet Free Speech. Boycott Toms Hardware Guide.

      And if you don't give a rat's ass about Internet Free Speech, boycott Tom's Hardware because they suck. Articles are spread across too many pages simply to create ad revenue, articles are poorly written and researched, the editors often seem to take a cue from Slashdot, and to top it all off THG is hardly impartial. If you want good hardware coverage, get it somewhere [anandtech.com] else [sharkyextreme.com].

    • Is it still a boycott if I never read it in the first place?

      Really, I don't get /. citing all these THG articles. If there is a any site on the net ten years past it's prime, it's that waste of bandwidth at Tom's House & Garden.

    • Re:I don't read THG, (Score:4, Informative)

      by User 956 ( 568564 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:43AM (#6337361) Homepage
      Do your part for Internet Free Speech. Boycott Toms Hardware Guide.

      Boycott tom's hardware? Dude, have you seen the fascist bullshit [elektrik-sheep.com] going on at HardOCP regarding their doctored benchmarks?

      Kyle Bennett mass bans longtime users of his own forum for criticizing his faked benchmarks-- How can you believe a word out of his mouth?
  • Cat5 Cabling Woes (Score:5, Informative)

    by borgasm ( 547139 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:13AM (#6337067) Journal
    Just a thought...

    Remember to follow spec when making your own network cables. Running the wires straight through will cause issues (signal interference). You must have pins 3 and 6 on the same twisted pair, otherwise, the cables won't work after 30 feet or so...

    If I had done it correctly, I could have saved 2 trips to the store, and lots of headaches.
    • Cat5 wire usually has four pairs. Only two pairs are needed (the pins 1,2 pair and the pins 3,6 pair). I have run two circuits on one cat5 cable. It seems to work fine.
      • Depends on what network standard yuo are using and over what length and under what conditions. For example, you can hook 10tx over 4 straight, untwised wires over a couple feet with no trouble. You can not do the same for 1000tx over a long distance with teh same cable conditions.

        Also you can exceed specs and have things work sometimes. 100metres is teh spec, but I've seen it exceeded. However when you jury righ stuff, like doing to signals over 1 wire, youa re asking for problems. Expect more collisions,
    • Sing along with me (Score:4, Informative)

      by Glonoinha ( 587375 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @09:31AM (#6338973) Journal
      Orange / White
      Orange
      Green / White
      Blue
      Blue / White
      Green
      Brown / White
      Brown

      When you have the connector in your hand with the pins facing you, that is the order to line them up in (left to right.)

      I am not saying it is the only way to do it, but it is the only way I do it.
  • Wireless... (Score:2, Insightful)

    by craenor ( 623901 )
    Best solution for a home network. Because I'm sorry, if you need more then the 5-20mbps throughput you'll get from 802.11b/g network...then you don't need a home network. You need an office network, at home.

    Does wireless have it's drawbacks? Yes, but so do wired networks. I run 5 computers at home on a wireless network, sharing one internet connection through a Linksys Router.

    I don't run WEP, but secure my network by changing the default ip address of my router and disabling DHCP. So you have to know
    • Re:Wireless... (Score:5, Informative)

      by drwtsn32 ( 674346 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:23AM (#6337100)
      It is trivial to sniff your non-encrypted packets and determine the subnet you are using (or at least the IP address of your machines and gateway).

      Why not use WEP? It doesn't cost anything. Also turn on MAC filtering and turn off SSID broadcasts.

      Then you can claim to have a reasonably secure environment. (As far as consumer wireless stuff goes.)
      • Re:Wireless... (Score:5, Interesting)

        by craenor ( 623901 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:31AM (#6337144) Homepage
        You are right...and as soon as I think one of my neighbors can/will do that, I'll upgrade my wireless network security.

        I regularly run net stumbler and the like to see if I can pick up other wireless networks. When I think I actually need better security I'll add it. For the time being though, there is nothing on any of my computers that really needs securing.

        As for why I don't use WEP? I've found it somewhat buggy and it sucks up bandwidth.
        • Re:Wireless... (Score:5, Insightful)

          by drwtsn32 ( 674346 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:34AM (#6337153)
          The choice to implement security AFTER there is a problem is a very poor choice IMO.
    • Out of the 6 ethernet capable devices I have in my home, only 2 could take a wireless card - the others (an xterminal, slotless all in one system, xbox, dreamcast w/brodband adapter) are out of luck. If you could actually put wireless cards into all those systems, it migh be worth it.

      Wireless cards also cost 4 - 5x the same as a 10/100 card, and offer less than half the performance. When I'm copying data, or burning a DVD off of a network server, I need that bandwidth. You may not, especially if you don't
    • Re:Wireless... (Score:5, Informative)

      by kcurrie ( 4116 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @09:28AM (#6338949)
      I don't run WEP, but secure my network by changing the default ip address of my router and disabling DHCP. So you have to know the correct subnet to use to get on my network and assign your own ip address.

      You're not "securing" your network by changing the address and disabling DHCP. You're making an attacker take an additional few seconds before jumping on your network. Sniffing your network for a few minutes will reveal what address range should be used.

      A better solution:

      1) disable SSID broadcasting. Note that this is simply a "good" thing to do-- SSIDs can still be sniffed in normal traffic.
      2) Use MAC filtering-- i.e. set your access point to only allow the mac addresses for the cards you have. This helps, but does *not* prevent others from stealing your mac for acccess.
      3) Use the lame WEP
      4) Use a VPN. Have your wireless in your DMZ (behind a firewall) and in front of another one. Have the internal firewall allow though the port(s) required for for your laptops to authenticate to your internal VPN server.
      You can use IPSEC, CIPE, OpenVPN, vtun, or even PPP over SSH (not recommended). I personally like OpenVPN, although there is no Windows client at the moment (there is for IPSEC and CIPE though).

      Configure your externally facing firewall to NOT
      allow packets out from your wireless-- instead those packets need to come from your VPN server.
      If somebody gets access to your wireless network they then cannot access the internet nor can they access your home network.

      Running something like arpwatch looking for new MAC addresses is a nice thing as well, but if you're using mac address filtering it should be impossible for any other mac to authenticate on your network anyway.

  • Great article...but as it says in the header this is the kind of knowledge that's good for people who own their home rather than rent. I don't have the option to drill holes in the wall and install CAT-5 outlets. And it's not currently in my budget to convert all the existing hosts on my home (read play) network to wireless.

    I'd like to see an article about the unique ways in which geeks acquire used hardware...the kind of stories where people who don't understand why on earth some computer savvy indivi
  • by dokebi ( 624663 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:22AM (#6337094)
    What's the point of putting an article together if you just hire some guys to do it for you? Is choosing the cable type and faceplate style that big of a deal? That's like saying "I wrote this article about building a computer from scratch, and we just asked Dell to do it for us. Oh, btw, I asked them to use grey face plates instead of the black one."
    • by Leebert ( 1694 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @07:02AM (#6338097)
      > What's the point of putting an article together if you just hire some guys to do it for you?

      I have a side business where we do a lot of network cabling. We avoid residential, and basically refuse to do it except for a few cases where we are asked by a contractor who gives us a lot of commercial work. Hiring a contractor for something like this isn't all that bad of an idea. The main reason why I say this is because good contractors have a huge array of tools to do the job correctly. And they know how to use them.

      Running network cable in a commercial environment is usually trivial. Running network cable in a home is always a hassle, and you had better know what you are doing. You also had better know how to fix a problem when you create it.

      If you get queezy thinking about sawing holes in drywall and then patching it up (not just sloppily -- correctly so it looks like there was never a hole there), then yes, you should hire a contractor.

      But be very careful, since most good contractors won't do residential. Homeowners whine a lot, don't want to pay much, and expect too much.

      As far as this article, I don't really see the point, either.
  • by term0r ( 471206 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:24AM (#6337104)
    In my first flat me and my flatmates (roommates) networked our house. All we had on hand was a knife sharpener and a Mallet. So, knife sharpener was placed against the wall, and given a nice thumb with the mallet. The entry wounds (my name for them) were quite nice and neat, only about 3 cm diameter of disturbed wall. However, the exit wounds on some walls had cracks up to about 1 metre long and actual openings of about 10 cm in diameter.

    However, a few well placed posters and a lenient landlord helped :)

    All in all, it was a nice reliable, albeit co-ax, network.

    Nowadays I have a nice neat network, using lots of cable ties, packing tape and lots of Cat5. I am currently doing free computer work for a sparky friend in the hope that I can get some Cat5 installed for free when I buy my own home.
    • Sigh. Everyone *knows* that exist wounds are the ones that cause the real damage! Nice neat hole in your forhead, gaping crevace at the base of your skull...
  • Someone should have thrown these people a link before they dug up some walls.

    http://www.apple.com/airport/

    In all seriousness, not to sound "640k is enough..." but why not just go wireless for a home network? IF you have the sw security in place, what's the need for all the speed? Wouldn't an 802.11g setup be enough for downloads, gaming, vnc, p2p, whatever? Seems a lot easier than doing cable drops unless you want to stream DVD's. Wouldn't Divx streaming be fine at 802.11g speed too!?!

    • Re:Poor bastards. (Score:4, Interesting)

      by Zarquon ( 1778 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:57AM (#6337239)
      Because I was upgrading from a true 10 mbit network (10B2.. people kept #@!#ing with the T-connectors) and wasn't about to take a performance hit, as well as a large monetary hit.

      Shared files on 10 mbit were fairly slow, and print jobs for the new printer were taking minutes per page to spool on complex pages.

      10/100 card, $8/port.
      16 port switch, $90. 7 ports used, $13/port.
      Wall plate / jack, $8/port.
      Cable: Had leftover partial spool of 5e, free.
      price per port for switched 100 mbit? $29

      7 port wireless:
      Price /port of pci wireless card: $50-70. Call it $60.
      Access point, varies, $80 for an okay one. $11/port.
      Price per port: $71 / port for shared 11 mbit that goes down anything someone turns on the microwave.

      G wasn't widely available when I put the 10/100 in, but current prices seem to be:

      Did I include time to run the wire and terminate it? No.
  • by dokebi ( 624663 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:25AM (#6337115)
    I just called up Dell and told them what to put in my box. I told them to put in P4 3Ghz, instead of 2.8GHz because it's better, and only slightly more expensive. I also told them what color cables to use. Moderators: It's funny, because it's True
  • by drhannibal ( 623668 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:26AM (#6337124)
    I made the mistake of reading this entire article. I recommend to all those who entertain the idea skip it. Important questions such as cat6 vs. 5e vs wireless a/b/g aren't given sufficient coverage. Instead it reads like an advertisement for some lame-o contractor. Few people build a home network like this. The guy tells you how to hire a contractor to do the hole punching for you! This isnt the slashdot way: we like punching our own holes in the walls and crawling around in attics and toiling in insulation. Sorry THG, usually your articles have at least marginal worth, this one was a real loser. From someone who has installed their own (highly pleasing, if you know what i mean) home network, dont read this article. Cover your eyes. If you want the advice this article gives you, I can summarize in one sentence. Hire a contractor. On the other hand, if you read slashdot, go to fry's, buy 1000m of cat5/e and a few face plates, get out the hammer and the pocket knife and start doing it big...
  • Cat5 + Coax + RJ-12 (Score:5, Informative)

    by borgasm ( 547139 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:28AM (#6337128) Journal
    Another idea for a home network is to run special cable rather than separate phone, ethernet, and coaxial.

    It is bundled Cat5, telephone, and coaxial, and comes in a tight package not much larger than heavily shielded (RJ-6 coax?).

    You can easily run central distribution of phones, video on demand, networking...etc...

    Kill 3 birds with one stone....
    • by reverse flow reactor ( 316530 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:09AM (#6337284)
      Another idea is to pull a strand of string through the wall too. That way, years later when you decide to add another cable, you attach the new cable and a new piece of string to one end of the old string, and pull it through from the other end. Very cheap and easy to do if you do it in advance, and a real time-saver later on.
      • Another idea is to pull a strand of string through the wall too

        Also, by attachin a used yoghurt pot to each end of the string, it can double as an inexpensive room to room intercom system.

  • Wireless (Score:3, Interesting)

    by rf0 ( 159958 ) <rghf@fsck.me.uk> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:29AM (#6337131) Homepage
    I thought about starting to put holes in walls etc but taking that my walls are about 2 foot thick I decided to just go wireless. 11Mb all round the house and into the garden and not one hole drilled. OK not as fast as wired but so much neater and easier

    Rus
  • by mikeophile ( 647318 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:30AM (#6337135)
    It's in the building code in a lot of places and it's no just the law, it's a good idea.

    Plenum cable is pretty much the same as regular CAT, except it's more expensive and more fire resistant.

    Regular CAT in a fire can act like a fuse, moving the fire from one part of the house to another inside the walls.

    • by SuperBanana ( 662181 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:04AM (#6337270)
      Better use plenum cable in the walls. It's in the building code in a lot of places

      Actually, no- it's not required in-wall. The only cases where plenum is required is in air ducts, hence the name, plenum cable. Want to guess why? PVC gives off extremely toxic fumes when it burns. Plenum is a little more fire resistant, and a little less toxic.

      Try googling around, you'll find what I found:

      "Plenum Cable: A cable with flammability and smoke characteristics that meet the safety requirements of the National Electrical Code® (NEC®) that allow it to be routed in a plenum area without being enclosed in a conduit. See plenum."

      Regular CAT in a fire can act like a fuse, moving the fire from one part of the house to another inside the walls.

      This is bullshit. It's not a "fuse", but regardless- plenum would eventually do the same thing- it's a little more fire-resistant than PVC, but it'll still burn.

      • by mikeophile ( 647318 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:30AM (#6337331)
        If you were going to build a house for yourself with network cable in the walls, why would you use something that burns readily and creates loads of toxic smoke?

        Oh, and yes, non-plenum cable can indeed carry fire from one part of a building to another.

        In 1975 there was a large fire at One World Trade Center that luckily occurred in the middle of the night when the building was unoccupied. The One World Trade Center fire was analyzed in great detail and a report was issued by The New York Board of Fire Underwriters Bureau of Fire Prevention and Public Relations. The information gathered in this investigation was used to further develop New York City Local Law 5. The following are some of the observations/ conclusions of the report.

        "The [exposed] polyethylene (PE) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) cable insulation and plastic back panel blocks burned readily so that virtually all combustibles including the fire retardant wood paneling on the telephone closet walls of the 10th and 12th floors were destroyed".

        • If you were going to build a house for yourself with network cable in the walls, why would you use something that burns readily and creates loads of toxic smoke?

          If your network cable is burning, you already have far bigger problems on your hands. You realize that most insulation will burn as well, not to mention the drywall and wood that your house is essentially built out of. Yeah, it's all firetreated, but when it does burn it gives off far more noxious smoke than cat5 will.

          Your original statement is
  • IF you get your house built, you should consider sneaking in wire at night and putting them in the walls before they do the sheetrock. This way, you won't have to bore holes in the walls later.

    A few years ago, I thought ahead, and decided that it necessary in the future to install ethernet at home. Therefore, without the permission of the builder or subcontractor, I just snuck in some wire and stapeled it like they did. Apparently, the subcontractors that did the plastering and sheetrock had no blueprint

  • tip number one (Score:3, Informative)

    by SuperBanana ( 662181 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:31AM (#6337142)

    Right off the bat, I see one very evil problem with the article- they show cables with those $@#!ing boots.

    I'm gonna make this as clear as possible:
    NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER BUY ETHERNET CABLES WITH BOOTS.

    Why? Because you can't plug them into switches/hubs/routers unless the device has spacing to allow for the boot. Many, many devices don't! The boots also do a great job of interfering with the case of many systems with builtin ethernet.

    Oh, and here's another tip for the readers, a VERY common myth- I didn't see if they mentioned this, but you CANNOT just do "same color order on both ends". The whole point behind twisted pair is that the twisted pairs reduce loss from magnetics. In order to take advantage of that, you have to use the pairs properly- ie, you need to put the pairs on the rx and tx pairs on the connector, or you've got a signal flowing over different pairs, and that's WRONG. I had to correct several coworkers at two different jobs, who were wiring cables any old way, just making the ends the same. Surprise, the cables worked like shit. Folks- 100BaseT spec only allows for ONE INCH of untwisted wire on the entire cable, so don't go making really long untwisted leaders into the connectors. It's a pain to get the hang of it and getting 'em all lined up right, but it needs to be done properly!

    • As well, make sure that you use google to search for T-568A or T-568B. These are the proper standards for wiring Cat5 ethernet. To make a straight-through cable, use the same wiring standard at both ends. To make a cross-over cable, make one end 568A and the other end 568B.

      Aww, what the hell. I do the Google search for you.

      Excellent resource, but it's a large PDF. [levitonvoicedata.com]

      Also, if you're in the middle of some renovations and your walls are being shifted or otherwise opened, run all of your cable in conduit! Thi
    • Re:tip number one (Score:3, Informative)

      by Spoing ( 152917 )
      Folks- 100BaseT spec only allows for ONE INCH of untwisted wire on the entire cable, so don't go making really long untwisted leaders into the connectors. It's a pain to get the hang of it and getting 'em all lined up right, but it needs to be done properly!

      The method you recommend is a pain because you're doing it wrong! (It's also something I would have recommended a few years ago when many of my cables would not work or work well.)

      At that time, I met a phone installer. After going through cable aft

      • Ok first off I have been making ethernet cables since the late 80's and I have never done it any way but this if I had a choice. Giving yourself an inch or more of cable to untwist and allign is significantly easier to flatten with your fingers. Using standard rj45 ends and crimper just trim insert and crimp you wont have any untwisted before the plastic seperators. You can also make your life easy and use the AMP pull through connectors no muss no fuss unless your have nonstandard switches and patch pan
  • by PizzaFace ( 593587 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:42AM (#6337188)
    I used to think the process described in the article was the way to build a home network, and that's why I didn't have a home network. Like a big LEGO sculpture, it's cool to look at, and some geeks will make a hobby of it, but it's not a project for most people who just want a useful end-product.

    Now there's WiFi, and even the cheap 802.11b hardware is fine for sharing files, printers, and broadband. Buy a USB adapter for each remote computer and you don't even need to open the cases. You can have everyone connected in an hour. Now THAT is practical home networking.
  • by appleLaserWriter ( 91994 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @12:55AM (#6337234)
    Your home has phone lines, right?

    Go onto EBay and get some nice US Robotics Courrier HST modems, one for each room. Next, find some speedy 486DX-50 (not DX2-50) boxen, also one per room.

    As you add more and more 486 and HST modems, both your compute speed and comm throughput tends towards infinte.

    This is the beauty of the Home Beowulf Network!

    Ethernet is for wussies. Real Men (tm) do it at 16.8k.
  • by MrLint ( 519792 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:14AM (#6337294) Journal
    I skimmed over the article and kinda looked bewildered when I saw that rack monster. From the look of this it kinda take the 'new' this old house stance instead of the 'old' this old house stance. That is to say, looks like they are doing new construction as opposed to a geeky retrofit.

    Knowing your house plan is important as well as plan plan planning.

    With DSL you have a bit of room to play. If possible (and environment permitting) I like to tap the phone line right where it comes into the house (usually the basement). Setting a nice shelf on the wall for your modem and (mandatory) router. A small 12" patch panel (larger if you want to do a phone retrofit). With Cable you are sometimes more tied to where the cable comes in, and thats not always the basement.

    But planning is the key. Find where you want to be the heart of the network and try to run stuff there. If possible split the incoming broadband only once before the downlink device (modem).

    Now comes the big question mark that hangs over most people's heads.. how to I do the jacks? Most people are just plain not familiar with the products in this category. There are several manufactures of this stuff I have experience, and happen to like the Panduit mini-com line of products. Most of the vendors have similar competing products. These jacks are not cheap. Try not to skimp and use low quality product. These are modular jacks that snap into not only the patch panel but also wall units that mount into standard electrical boxes (use the blue plastic ones please.. don't slice your data lines). The jacks are color coded and then snap together. You (almost) cant mess it up.

    Now nearly all of your do-it-yourself people will not have a proper TDR (time domain reflectometer) to do exhaustive testing with. If you buy one of those 15 buck line continuity tester and if you use the (nearly) mistake proof jacks, you will probably be just fine for your updated geek home of tomorrow.

    PS. Just because I like to my self I recommend that you run 2 lines if you are going to run one. The cable is cheap and you are already committed to the effort of running it.

    PPS I'll leave the cable choice discussions up to other threads and the article. But if possible, match your jacks to the type of cable you choose.

    I've also done thin-net installations, I can answer a few questions there if someone is a masochist:)
  • by The Panther! ( 448321 ) <panther.austin@rr@com> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:14AM (#6337296) Homepage
    (next)


    This is my
    (next)


    story about how
    (next)


    I thought I was a
    (next)


    Real Man for hiring
    (next)


    a contractor to do my
    (next)


    manly work. Call me 404.
  • Come on (Score:3, Funny)

    by Fizzlewhiff ( 256410 ) <jeffshannon@@@hotmail...com> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:21AM (#6337310) Homepage
    Any serious geek has a raised floor and a communications rack in the linen closet to tie it all together. This article is for people who prefer ceramic tile and carptet to the clunck of a raised floor.
  • Paid ad? (Score:4, Funny)

    by Animats ( 122034 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:25AM (#6337320) Homepage
    That article was a paid commercial, right?

    Here's Mr Green, he's so serene, he's got a TV in every room

  • by LoRdTAW ( 99712 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @01:32AM (#6337339)
    Well I have a nice home network that consists of copper strung through the walls. And if you want a professional looking job here are some tips and tricks to use:
    - first place to check is your basement. Older homes might have had duct work for forced air heating but since switched to steam/hot water. I have helped my friend wire his whole house using the old ducts as pathways for running the cable.
    - IF you want to run cable through the walls the outer walls of your home are filled with insulation thus making it near impossible to pull cable. the next best walls are walls inside your home that both side of the walls are inside your home. they are hollow and can easily have cable pulled through them.
    - Closets are your friend as you can drill holes in them without having to worry about people seeing them. I have a cable that runs from my basement to the second floor closet through a hollow inner wall and then through the closet floor into the ceiling into the attic where I pulled the wire along to another room and drilled down through its closet to run the cable.
    - If you want to know where studs are inside the walls of your home the standard spacing is 16 inches from the nearest corner. most any tape measure will have 16 inch markings for stud locations. But be aware this method isn't always 100% as some times they might be a much as 2 inches off.
    - attics are also another great place to run cable. locate the room below you want to run cable to and drill from the attic to that rooms closet if it has one to conceal the cable.
    - most homes have a molding around the floor. you can remove it with a pry bar without damaging it and cut holes into the sheet rock or plaster and run wire through them. Replace the molding to cover up the hole. always remember to not make the hole higher then the molding otherwise you just made a mess. This is a good way to get cable from one room to adjacent room/closet.
    - If you do have forced air heating/cooling you can run cable inside the ducts. If you do decide to do this make sure you use plenum rated cable to stay compliant with local/national building codes.
    - Buying cable can sometimes be a problem as you do not know what type or brand to buy. there are two basic cable types regular jackets which most likely be PVC or plenum rated. Plenum cable is designed to give off little or no toxic smoke when burned. this is used inside buildings that use the space inside a drop ceiling as an air duct as well. Also if you plan to run the cable inside an air duct you must use plenum cable to comply with national building codes. So if its just the inside of your home walls the cheap PVC is fine. Also don't go overboard and buy expensive beldin cat 5e stuff. I bought a roll and found it difficult to work with when it came to making patch cables. The crap they sell at the Home Depot is just fine and works good even for gigabit.

    These are good ways to conceal cable and do it the same way an electrical contractor would. Some of you might be a little nervous knocking a hole on a wall or ripping up floor boards but if you want to do it yourself and save big bucks you certainly can. I have personally ran over 500ft of cat5 in my home to 10 different computers in 5 different rooms in my home. And if you ever saw the work you would think a contractor did it.
  • by SeverianDragon ( 555306 ) <h2owarrior@hotmail.com> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @02:00AM (#6337403)
    in the article should be addressed.

    First: Choice of plate terminators, angled is good! THG said it, they keep out dust, and in a home with kids this is a very good thing.

    Second: finding cable runs is a very good thing. You can't go wrong if you choose where your cable is going very carefully. Just think, that 50' length of expensive Cat6 you just cut won't reach to the one place you need it, like the office upstairs where your Significant Other wants to place his/her computer because he/she likes the view. Also, stringing cable outside means that you could be letting in bugs (ants, termites, wasps and bees come to mind, all of which are detrimental to any home owner) and rodents (mice can easilly tear open a hole if they get a handhold).

    Third: Neatness factor was a plus. Those nifty cable loops that they used to string the cable around the basement means no holes. Not boring holes in load-bearing joists and studs can save your bum if you are moving in say... a grand piano and your movers drop it right on that critical spot.

    Mentioning some of the hardware used: great! I like seeing hardware mentioned. This means I can go out and look up honest-to-god reviews of it elsewhere if all the information isn't available on the first review I check. Also, pointing out the cable tester they used was important. When/if I decide to wire my own home I'll deffinitely look for a similar tool.

    Cable versus DSL et al: another good point, find out who supplies what in your area and can you use it? Also, how much does it cost? Personally I would not have opted for DirecTV and just gone with cable all-around. But that was his choice.

    I agree, overall this review could have used alot more meat in the "why'd we choose this bit of kit over that." department. However, as we all know the internet has an almost unlimited supply of information on any topic, just go look it up!

    However, consulting with a contractor can be a very useful tool, even if you decide not to use the services of that contractor, they can provide you with useful information free of charge! If we all could do spot-on wiring of our houses the first time through we wouldn't need contractors for anything. On top of that, if you all missed it, the article mentioned that the writer and his family were prepairing to move in to a new home. As anyone who has moved in to a new home, and supervised its construction, knows that getting other people to do grunt work is a good thing.

  • Renovate (Score:3, Informative)

    by Alioth ( 221270 ) <no@spam> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @02:14AM (#6337445) Journal
    The best time to do it is of course when you have major work to do on the house. Mine needed major repairs, so I stripped it down to the bare stone and replaced the interior walls, too.
    At that time, I put in the cabling. It all goes to a patch-panel in my under the stairs 'wiring closet'.
  • by BinBoy ( 164798 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @02:37AM (#6337518) Homepage
    I wish I'd read this before I attempted - now I have a few (ok, 8) unsightly holes in my wall.

    Worst of all, it was a wireless network. *rimshot* Thank you. You've been a great crowd.
  • by djupedal ( 584558 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @02:39AM (#6337528)
    ...means never having to say you're sorry.

    Top 10 statements, if you use a wireless Airport network, you will not prefacing with "I'm sorry for...":
    1. Another hole in the wall/floor/ceiling
    2. Another unused/unneeded hole in the wall/floor/ceiling
    3. Another spool of cable you may or not use...ever.
    4. Another 6 hours of the network being offline each time 1 & 2 come around.
    5. Another 2 hours of testing to find out if the problem is with the new cable or the router config (each time 1 & 2 come around)
    6. Failing to understand the difference between CAT5 and CAT 6 while standing in the aisle at Home Networks Depot.
    7. Failing to remember to buy 10/100 ethernet hubs (instead of just those cheap 10mbs hubs that still lurk on the shelf).
    8. Failing to properly count and total all existing computers in the home (did you tell me you wanted one in the laundry room too?)
    9. Damn it! When did we buy another PlayStation???
    10. Damn it all to hell! When did they start putting ethernet ports on (insert favorite consumer product here...TV; MP3 player; xyz set-top box; baby monitor; door bell; burgler alarm)
    • Top 10 statements, if you were not to use a wireless Airport network, you will not be prefacing with "I'm sorry for.."
      1. the network not working in your favourite place due to interference.
      2. paying multiple times the cost of a wired network.
      3. the network being as slow as mollass.
      4. having to buy yet another ethernet to wireless converter.
      5. for the neighbours and passersby hacking into the network.
      6. buying a wireless transeiver that was not powerful enough.
      7. using the microwave and making the network crawl.
      8. the netw
  • by Large Green Mallard ( 31462 ) <lgm@theducks.org> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @03:13AM (#6337621) Homepage
    Installed in mid 2001 in Australia. At that time, the cost of getting 9 x ethernet ports, 10 x telephone outlets between two lines, TV cable to 4 extra locations and changing existing crappy 600-series telephone sockets to RJ-11 was cheaper than buying wireless bridging gear for the three main computers I had at that time.

    Plus I got 100mbit ethernet instead of 11mbit wireless, and it meant that in the future I was able to add a networked printer in another room without having to buy yet more wireless gear.

    While I'm more than capable of doing the wiring myself (I have done in many north american homes), in Australia many homes, such as mine, are all brick, instead of stud and dry-wall. This makes installing the points a significantly difficult task, so for A$1400 all up (US$700 at the time), I think I got out of it pretty well. This also included a 8 port switch and signal amp for the TV signal.

    I don't trust wireless security to the point of wanting my own access point, thanks muchly. I can put it in my insecure DMZ, but someone might use my bandwidth and monthly data allowance, which just costs me more :P And I don't feel like implementing 802.1X/LEAP/VPNs at home either.
  • Wireless? (Score:5, Interesting)

    by ONU CS Geek ( 323473 ) * <ian.m.wilson@gma i l .com> on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @03:30AM (#6337663) Homepage
    I've read the comments and I hear people saying, "Use Wireless, it's less hassle," as well as networking horror stories.

    Well, I've got about both. My first day on the job as a High-Speed Cable installer, I ran my drill through a power main. Knocked me on my ass, and I had to buy a new drill and pay to have the customers house re-wired. Not a fun experience. What did I learn? Look on both sides of the walls, and always ask the customer if they'd like their jack there.

    In my 'house,' Each 'Data box' has 2 Cat5E, a fiber, 2 2-line phone jacks, and 2 Coax. I use this so I can provide a secure/DMZ, have the ability to upgrade, as well as send signals (e.g., videocams) to other devices in my house. The only reason that I use wireless is so I can use the occassional Free Access point that's floating about, and war-driving. My WAP in my house is on, however, it's on a seperate vlan, and no one really uses it.

    Stay away from wireless--sure it's easy, but, do you really want your data out there for the world to see? For the effort that you use to run your wire and make sure the job is done right (e.g., use Mini-Com's from Panduit, make sure they're snapped down all the way, and make sure you've punched down everything/terminated your fiber right), you'll have the satisification that you've done a job right, and that your data is safe and secure.
    • Re:Wireless? (Score:3, Insightful)

      by MrMickS ( 568778 )
      I have both wired and wireless networks in my house. They serve different purposes.

      The wired network connects all of my servers together and allows me fast networking when I need it.

      The wireless network allows me to check my email from the sofa or the garden or anywhere else I'm comfortable. Yes there is a chance that someone may see the packets on my network but I'm a) not that parnoid and b) aren't prepared to give up the convience of wireless.

      In short: wireless for ease of use, wired for speed.

  • Home Networking (Score:5, Interesting)

    by maroberts ( 15852 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @03:47AM (#6337697) Homepage Journal
    I did mine (a small 3 bedroomed detached house in England) all by myself.

    I was fortunate in the fact my walls are of plasterboard construction so I had no problems running cable down them, except between floors. I put a switch and a wireless router in the attic.

    What did I learn?
    a) If doing it again I would use some conduit pipe to make rewiring easier. However I did put 4 CAT5 ports in each room, which is enough for any small house!

    b) buy a big roll of cable and make your own cables - its much cheaper that way.

    c) Plan and check before you knock holes in walls

    d) I'm a good network installer but a terrible plasterer, put any holes in walls where they'll be most hidden
  • by nzyank ( 623627 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @05:26AM (#6337903)
    Don't fuck around. Need a hole? Use a sledgehammer. Fast, makes a nice, neat hole that's big enough for about 115 Cat5 cables. None of this sissy shit like wireless and threading little bitty cables through little bitty holes and fastening the ends on only AFTER threading the cables.

    Worried about the landlord? Screw that! If you can afford more than one computer then you can afford to lose the security deposit.

    Oh... and then do what I did. Move to New Zealand. Mwahhahahahaha
  • My Experience (Score:3, Interesting)

    by don_carnage ( 145494 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @07:25AM (#6338220) Homepage

    For what it's worth, I documented my experience wiring my home for network and phone here:

    http://spookyworld.dnsalias.com/bhjp/d/74 [dnsalias.com]

    Note: This article is now two years old, so technologies like wireless and gigabit ethernet were out of reach.

  • by chrysrobyn ( 106763 ) * on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @10:12AM (#6339304)

    I would love an article that deserved the title "Building A (Serious) Home Network From Scratch". This isn't it.

    I want to see how to open my wall with the least destruction. How to snake it up to the attic. How to snake it up to the plywood under the carpet in the second floor. Then, how to patch drywall.

    I want to see how to effectively route wires from all over the house to a punchdown block in a closet. I don't need to see ethernet cable connectors every step of the way, we're talking about a serious network. PUNCH DOWN BLOCKS! There is, of course, a discussion of conduit. People who have done it and found a need, along with a few sentences about people who have spent (how long does it take?) a few hours to do it and found it to be a waste of time. Eventually, because it's only a Home Network, we probably just go with wires and no conduit, but we've at least thought about conduit and feel better for it.

    This Serious Home Network probably also has jacks to tie in the neighbors for bandwidth sharing or LAN gaming, or possibly some other fancy stuff, but we're not wasting our page views on how to cut down a rack. We can figure that stuff out.

    • My background happens to hit all of these 'physical' issues just right: I've done construction, construction management (a great excuse to watch EVERY trade for a few hours at a time to learn from their decades of hands-on experience), and more computer/network programming and infosec work than the others combined. I've done commercial retrofits of a building for electrical code, including bending a few thousand feet of conduit.

      So, at home I've done a hybrid of everything mentioned in this thread. While
  • by HarveyBirdman ( 627248 ) on Tuesday July 01, 2003 @10:44AM (#6339599) Journal
    We don't have a lot of basements here, but we do have crawl spaces. Better than a slab, I guess.

    I spent hours shuffling around and lying in that tiny space, hooking up cable and tacking it to the structure. The payoff was that the only holes inside the house were for the wall jack. I came up inside the walls from underneath.

    I got to know the wildlife down there very well (there's less than you might imagine). I still trade emails with some Black Widows I met.

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