IOGEAR Homeplug Networking Reviewed 99
Chris Allen writes "Wired or wireless? This is always just about the first thing anyone thinks of when planning their new home/soho office. It always comes down to price/performance/practicality, in whichever order you feel is more important. Sometimes it just isn't possible to run CAT5, for a variety of reasons. The only options available for the average consumer is wireless, HomePNA, which uses your existing telephone network in your house, and HomePlug, using your existing power grid. HomePNA has been around for around 3 years or so, and has matured some, starting out transmitting at dismal speeds and lackluster reliability in regards to interference. HomePlug is short for HomePlug® Powerline Alliance."
First Plug! (Score:5, Interesting)
Anyways there's an interesting side note to the history of the ricochet modem. It's parent company developed and deployed a network over powerline technology for some LA based power company years ago. Too bad they went bankrupt otherwise i'd have a link.
Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:5, Interesting)
Also, make sure to set the password on your HomePlug hardware or everone on your street up to the transformer is on your LAN.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:5, Interesting)
Interesting suggestion though, add a couple of file and game servers on it, get some decent neighbohrs and you can have your own cheap and bloody fast LAN for some heavy duty trading and file swapping. Every puts down 100 bucks for equipment and a bunch of computers to act as servers... Sounds nice and definetely cheaper and more reliable then wireless, because radio transmissions are always susceptable to atmospheric distortions and shitty security. I don't think anyone is stupid enough to tap into my power mains just to sniff my packets.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
I'll second that. Throughput of HomePNA 2.0 is identical to 10baseT. Plus you can pick up the cards so bloody cheap, a lot of places sell the Diamond and 3Com cards for under $10. Plus, for quick'n-dirty hookups, it's particularly nice that you can simply daisy chain a bunch of computers together using cheap phone cable without needing a hub.
When every power supply has HomePlug built in with just another wire going to the motherboard, I will revisit it. Until then, it's just too damn expensive and bulky.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
Plus you don't need terminators, and the cable is a lot thinner and more flexible.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
Why am I limited to two devices as bridges but as many as I want as nodes?
What is the underlying design flaw that is in the way here?
I want to get one for each of my kids iMacs and one at the switch. (total 3)
it is easier than running cables and wireless sucks in my folks old house due to horse hair plaster lath walls.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
> bridges but as many as I want as nodes?
I wasn't aware of any such limitation (which doesn't mean that it doesn't exist), but it sounds kind of fishy. OTOH, those bridges are way overpriced anyway, I'm going to set up Linux boxes as bridges instead running LRP. Boxes might be exagerated; I have stacks of old 486 boards sitting around that operate fanlessly, I'm going to add a small fanless PS and boot the board off a 4MB CF card, so it's all nice and solid state, mounted in some sort of flat project enclosure (or an old VCR/CD/DVD player case).
Are there no HomePNA 2.0 Mac drivers for PCI cards? Are you on 9 or X? It would be handy if you could get drivers, because in that case you could get away without any bridges at all--just plug the iMacs into the phone outlets and use a machine by your router as the bridge.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
I may just have to go wall fishing.
Yummmm. 300yr old horse hair and rat droppings.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
In that case wireless might still be your best option. Find some USB wireless adapters, preferably some with an optional external antenna, and try playing around with positioning until you hopefully get a signal. If you can't reach all the way to the router room, you could position an intermediary wireless bridge in some closer room in-between. One advantage of having separate access point and router (rather than the popular all-in-one devices at the moment) is that the optimal positions for the two devices rarely coincide. An AP should reside somewhere centrally in the house, or in the attic, with a single run of cable to the router. Of course, 802.11b often does have problems reaching all rooms anyway. That's one of the main reasons I went with the Proxim Symphony HRF setup instead--only 1.6 Mbps, but the reach is incredible: my AP is in the basement, half buried underground in a brick house, and my notebook still gets 100% link quality at the edge of the property down by the creek, some 100 feet through earth, brick and framework. I believe their cards have a much higher power output than the 802.11b standard (this is only for the older HRF 1.6 Mbps standard though, I don't know how the new HomeRF 10 Mbps stuff holds up). They also have a USB adapter, and they do mention Mac support for their PC Card adapter, so maybe you can get drivers for the USB adapter. It's something work checking out anyway.
Re:Don't be confused by speed specs (Score:2)
He really seems to like that.
Kind of off topic but not really....Anyone else have their local power company doing trial runs with powerline broadband? I remember reading about this on
HomePlug distances, interference with other users? (Score:3, Insightful)
I looked at some of the homeplug.org [homeplug.org] web sites and member sites like Asoka [asokausa.com].
Homeplug runs natively at 14Mbps (USB devices are limited to USB's 12 Mbps speed), though effective speeds are often lower, depending on how noisy your environment is (one site said 80% of their tests got 5Mbps or better), and it's good for up to 1km, as long as there aren't power transformers in the way. You can only put 16 devices on the network; I assume that's 16 devices per 56-bit-DES security key, but I could be wrong. That does mean that you're not going to wire everybody in your neighborhood together in the same LAN. Nothing I saw talked about the throughput effects of having your neighbors sharing the network, only the security effects.
Will it work as good? (Score:4, Interesting)
Will this work as good? ;)
How about power spikes? I live in a neighborhood that is on the top end of what voltages are tolerable, so the quick, small, and frequent power spikes are more noticable and damaging and burn up lightbulbs frequently. If I were using this wouldn't I have to worry about it burning up the modem every couple of months?
I assume putting it behind some sort of surge supressor to protect it from the spikes would ruin it's ability to communite on the power lines.
Re:Will it work as good? (Score:2, Informative)
Re:Will it work as good? (Score:1)
But you need to back off. Apparently you don't know as much as you say you do.
Digital or analog, interference will interupt the singal. Due to the nature of analog, when you get interference the quality drops (i.e. clicks, pops, buzzing, or a beat in audio signals). When digital signals get interference you often loose the entire packet sent, requiring it to be sent again. This causes connection speeds to drop because more and more packets have to be sent two(or three, or four, or five....) times.
Maybe you know how everyone always says you shouldn't run CAT5 right next to electrical. Why? Because the electrical cables cause interference which will cause a lot of packet loss.
Wired... (Score:5, Interesting)
Most people are going to go for Wireless, its simpler to install, you can move around, don't need new sockets for new devices, and every network should have a wireless element in it.
BUT if you are connecting key elements together, like a primary desktop, a server or even just the major working at home point (in front of the TV with the laptop on my lap) then wired rules the world. Why ? Well apart from being able to transfer things around the network quicker, no drop in quality if the next door neighbour sets up their own wireless LAN with the packet clash party that can grow into. There is one bigger advantage to wires (no not security as you do need wireless to work in the garden).
Wires are maintainance free, they won't require upgrading as broadband gets broader. Legacy kit comes with the connections built in.
Wires for infrastructure and key sections. Wireless for roaming.
"Wires are maintainance free"? (Score:3, Insightful)
You'll have to upgrade the wires at sometime in the next 50 years I expect, though it shouldn't be too much hastle and should always be quicker than anything else (unless you're using wormholes)
Re:"Wires are maintainance free"? (Score:1)
Re:"Wires are maintainance free"? (Score:1)
Wire/Fiber etc... should always give a better performance than Air because it's better at propogating electromagnetic waves.
Re:Wired... (Score:1)
It depends on what you're trying to do. Desktop machines don't tend to move around and wireless tends to be slow. And there are more security risks associated with it too.
Home* not entirely wireless, not as flexible. (Score:4, Interesting)
There's only phone sockets downstairs at my place, so HomePNA might as well be a slow CAT5. HomePlug would be more useful but how well does that work when plugged into a couple of extension cables and a 10-way multiplug? Would this affect speed or stop it entirely?
Incidentally in my case it is just for internet connection sharing so I use as cheap an 802.11 as worked.
Affordable Wireless Solution (Score:1)
Re:Affordable Wireless Solution (Score:2)
Or am i entirely up the wrong tree as to how this works?
Re:Home* not entirely wireless, not as flexible. (Score:4, Informative)
Does anyone know of any other, more recent network tech shootouts? This was the most recent I could find for powerline. Extremetech has also done some testing on Bluetooth, for anyone who is interested in how it performs.
Re:Home* not entirely wireless, not as flexible. (Score:1)
Alternatives to using your phone wiring... (Score:5, Interesting)
We got cable a couple of years ago, which left all our old TV aerial wiring totally unused. This was great, because we needed a network cable running from a room downstairs with a TV aerial socket to a room upstairs. I found the other end of the aerial cable, poked a hole through the loft, and brought the cable down. Then it was just a matter of putting a BNC end on that cable, and changing the wall socket downstairs to a BNC socket. Hey presto - a nice, simple solution using existing wiring and technology! Who'd have thought it?
Not the best solution (Score:5, Informative)
You are getting a reflected signal off each network card in the system. As you describe it, you have a simple point-to-point link, so your reflections are "only" bouncing from one card to another. This will cause errors in the system.
I would suggest that you get REAL network cable (preferably CAT-5), tie it onto the existing cable, and pull it through. You will then be able to run 100Mbit, you won't have the reflection problem, and I think you will be much happier overall.
(actually, I would suggest that you go to the local hardware store, and while you are picking up the CAT5, pick up a spool of nylon cordage. Strip the end of the coax, and securely tie the cordage to the shield of the coax. Then smoothly tape it over with electrician's tape, starting on the coax jacket and with a 1/3 overlap moving to the cordage. When you reach the cordage, wind one extra pass, then cut the tape and UNWIND and REWIND that last wrap with no tension on the tape. Then pull the cordage through. Once it is through, then tie the CAT5 to the cordage and tape as you did the coax. Then pull BOTH the CAT5 and a new run of cordage. Leave the cordage in place - it will save you grief later if you need to pull an additional cable.)
Re:Not the best solution (Score:4, Informative)
You can use prebuilt units, like these [videocapturecard.com], or build your own [amazon.com].
Over short distances, the signal loss wont be significant -- heck, it's working with the mismatch! :-)
Re:Not the best solution (Score:1)
Re:Not the best solution (Score:1)
But no, if you want to get a cable from hither to yonder, you either use a gopher pole (a long, extensible PVC pole) or you use a slingshot.
Re:Alternatives to using your phone wiring... (Score:2)
Re:Alternatives to using your phone wiring... (Score:2)
Considering low-grade hubs started at 50-75 when it started, it worked well price/performance wide
False advertising? (Score:3, Funny)
"Sometimes it just isn’t possible to run CATS?!?" (Score:3, Funny)
Oh...sorry, that was CAT5...
ttyl
Farrell
Re:"Sometimes it just isn’t possible to run CATS?! (Score:1)
CATS?!?! Oh no!!!!
All your wall outlet are belong to us. HA HA HA...
"not possible" (Score:1, Interesting)
Re:"not possible" (Score:1)
Normally, I'd have no problem with making the long runs in the house up in the ceiling (attic, in my case,) but I don't want to have to go climbing around in the attic every time a raccoon or squirrel decides to gnaw through one of my cable runs.
Ah, the joys of low-income living...
Nothing is "impossible" (Score:1)
I lived in NY for four years in a house originally built in 1892 - lotsa plaster over brick. We found knob-and-tube wiring [eaglehomeservices.com] buried under renovations done in the 1950's. Still, we managed to add LAN wiring to the house by installing drop ceilings, or by using the space behind crown molding as a low-voltage conduit. Vertical drops were accomplished with battens and wainscoting. [wainscoting.com] Made the room look nicer too.
Wall panel systems are available commercially. Many include integrated wire ducts for just such an application. Wiremold [wiremold.com] has been making stuff like this for years (though some of the utilitarian stuff is butt-ugly.)
Re:"not possible" (Score:2)
I know a number of Catholic (and other) schools that have deployed HomePNA and/or Wireless so they can use computers in such buildings. Some of the buildings don't even have normal phone lines in them, and instead they use VoIP phones hanging off a Wireless Ethernet Bridge.
Phase current (Score:1, Interesting)
Here in the Netherlands we have two kinds of power you can have where the cable comes into your house: 220V or 220V times three (380V or 'power' current which is three times 220V but slightly phase shifted). Then these different phases are used for different groups in the house.
When I connect two of these HomePlug devices to two different phases, I guess it will not work will it?
The only thing the HomePlug website mentions is that "... it should support multiple logical networks on a single physical medium and be applicable to markets in North America, Europe and Asia."
Any comments?
Bart
802.11 works fine for me (Score:1, Informative)
Re:802.11 works fine for me (Score:1)
Re:802.11 works fine for me (Score:1)
Re:This smells like yet another advert (Score:1)
Re:This smells like yet another advert (Score:1)
HomePlug and Bluetooth (Score:3, Interesting)
What I would like to see is a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the wall socket to provide powerline network access to my home server to any bluetooth enabled device in the room. I should provide a straight through plug so I could still plug, say, a lamp into the socket. PDAs and TabletPCs could access the server through this bluetooth/powerline network, so for example, my PDA could automatically sync with my server when I walked into the house or into my home office. This set up might even be more secure due to the shorter range of bluetooth devices as compared to 802.11 wireless.
The powerline network would also help other technologies get a foothold. For example, I can see synergies in my refrigerator and pantry being intelligent enough to sense intelligent packaging and to be able tell how well stocked they were. (I don't want an Internet-enabled refrigerator though. That is like begging for trouble.) Using powerline networking, I could connect the 'frig to my server (hey, it has to be plugged in anyway!) and software on my server could combine the data from both refrigerator and pantry inventories to develop a shopping list transmitted/updated to my PDA automatically.
Personally, I think the Open Source community should jump on the home server bandwagon soon, and start providing a client/server API and applications that can be used by smart devices to connect via wireless/bluetooth/pwoerline networking to home servers. That is the future. Fighting the battle of the desktop is only of limited future use. The real battle, and the one that Linux and open source can win, is home servers that provide stable support to the intelligent devices finding their way into our homes and offices.
Re:HomePlug and Bluetooth (Score:1)
Re:HomePlug and Bluetooth (Score:2)
Why go to the bother of conjuring up a powerline-to-Bluetooth adapter when you can plug a USB Bluetooth dongle into your server? Bluetooth should have sufficient range to cover a decent-sized home if you put the server in a central location. Read this [sourceforge.net] for info on one way to get this kind of setup working under Linux. It's oriented at getting Internet access over Bluetooth to a Palm Tungsten T [palm.com], but it should be a good start for enabling other types of usage. After figuring out that bluefw needs leading zeroes on the bus and device numbers, I got this USB Bluetooth dongle [outpost.com] set up yesterday so that I can check mail, browse the web, and log into VNC and SSH servers with my Palm.
Re:HomePlug and Bluetooth (Score:1)
1) I have no place to put a server centrally in my house and still have access to my DSL line. Unless I lay a new line, and that is one of the things I am trying to avoid in the first place. In the German house I live in, we originally only had one phone plug in a three story (cellar, ground floor and upper story) house, and this is not unusual here.
2) My server sits in the cellar. I have a wireless network set up, and on the ground floor in the living room I can get 11 Mbps. In the upper story, on the stairs, bandwidth drops to 2 Mbps. If I step into any of the upstairs rooms, the connection becomes pretty much unusable. The construction materials used in this house are not unusual at all for Germany, and it is built primarily out of concrete. Bad for wireless. The house isn't that large though, comparatively speaking. It has about 112 square meters of living area, including the small terrace outside (on which I get between 5 and 11 Mbps). I'm reasonably certain that bluetooth would fare even worse than wireless under these conditions. Unless of course, the data is carried part of the way by something else - such as powerline networking.
So, why not move my acces point to somewhere central in the house and go with wireless? Because I have yet to see a cell phone/handy that incorporates wireless, but bluetooth enabled handies are sprouting up all over - as are bluetooth hands-free head sets. How about the idea of a bluetooth hands-free head set that knows when to connect to my handy and when to use my home phoneline to make/receive a connection?
I think a powerline/bluetooth solution would work for a house like mine with its sturdy construction, a larger house where a "central server" is still a good bit away, or for a firm that is spread through a medium-sized building.
Security on powerline networks (Score:2, Insightful)
Is there some sort of device you can put in at your fuse box to block data going in/out? What are the practical restrictions on someone coming up and using an external outlet at your house (none that I can see)?
This may be somewhat convenient for some applications, and perhaps more secure than wireless, but there are still some physical security issues that seem harder to address than with CAT5.
Throw in the lower level of convenience than one gets with wireless as well as a much lower rate of throughput than with 802.11a, and I don't see much more than a niche market for this sort of product.
GF.
Re:Security on powerline networks (Score:1, Informative)
Re:Security on powerline networks (Score:1)
Linux drivers (Score:2, Interesting)
HomePNA, HomePlug, bridges, chipsets, and idiocy.. (Score:1, Informative)
In favor of HPNA- 2.0's speed is excellent (~14mbps peak), and when it works, it's literally plug-and-play - the only security hole (unless you're worried about Van Eckers) can be cured with a cheap DSL microfilter between your home wiring and the telco.
The problem with HPNA 2.0 is that Broadcom has a monopoly on the HPNA 2.0 chipsets. Apparently others are making PHYceivers (see Anandtech's review, in which Compex's poor performance is blamed on a Conexant chip), but the MAC is always going to be a BCM4210 or relative. Even that wouldn't be so bad, but the 2.0 spec is Not Ethernet, and includes some bandwidth-reservation (QoS) tech that's Broadcom's intellectual property.
The end result is that, if you want to use a cheap $9 PNA2.0 card outside of Windows or Classic MacOS, you're stuck with some presumably flaky closed drivers for Linux (hidden on Linksys' site- props to Linksys for at least trying)... If you run a *BSD, OS X, QNX, or anything else, you're stuck buying a bridge.
Now, this wouldn't be so bad- having a bridge means having an Instant Ethernet Drop anywhere you have a phoneline- but the average price for a single port version is in the $150 range. In fact, good luck finding one that even integrates a switch/hub; Linksys made a 1.0 (1mbit) device that did, but their HPB200 doesn't. In fact, the only halfway-affordable solution is to get an old Panasonic KX-HGW200 - that's a full router - closeout from CompUSA for $20, turn off its routing features and run it as a bridge.
(You can mix 1.0 and 2.0 devices on a segment; it's just annoying, because everything on the segment flips back to 1.0 mode.)
Now, okay, so that's where HomePNA lives on the sucks-rulesometer. How about HomePlug?
Well, let's put it this way- nobody's going to make a PCI card with a 110v plug on the back. You only get bridges, and those bridges don't sound much cheaper than their HomePNA variants. By all rights, they have to be much more complex, since power lines are more hostile than phone lines.
Meanwhile, you can turn around and run 802.11 for the same or less money (~$30/client)... but when you're trying to hook up your relatives, who wants to explain signal strengths, WEP holes, and wardrivers?
Thus far, my bets are still with HomePNA - could all you Slashdotters *please* hammer Broadcom to improve the openness of documentation/support? - In theory, a 100mbit 3.0 is in the works, and that might give them a chance to recoup some cred (and even if you're stuck falling back to 14mbit, that's still quite usable vs. 1mbit)...
Re:HomePNA, HomePlug, bridges, chipsets, and idioc (Score:2)
Dear Broadcom,
Until such a time as you comply with our documentation/support demands, we will be linking slashdot articles to your primary servers on a daily basis.
Something like that what you're asking for?
Re:HomePNA, HomePlug, bridges, chipsets, and idioc (Score:1)
[homepna.org]
http://www.homepna.org/support/faqs.asp#FAQ6_Q1
the only "working" (I use the term loosely) Linux driver for HPNA? It sucks, sucks, sucks. Not maintained and not fully opened. I get a tainted kernel that panics from time to time... I'd use CAT5 ether if I could (sigh)
Apparently we only rate a half-assed token driver... )-;
HomePNA == Localtalk (Score:4, Informative)
More importantly, the wife (landlord or whoever) is not going to stand for rewiring the house with some computer nonsense.
Solution: AppleTalk networking over LocalTalk cabling. ie, use the existing phone sockets and cabling to send data. By modern standards it crawls, but it works well and is still in use today (by some unfortunate souls).
Almost 20 years later you have HomePNA. There aren't many new ideas in this world.
Re:HomePNA == Localtalk (Score:2)
What you describe is PhoneNet, which was developed by Farallon as a cabling substitute. Real LocalTalk cabling was a round cable with mini-DIN-4 connectors on each end, and (like everything else from Apple) was expen$ive (another motivation for PhoneNet was the reduced cost). A box with a mini-DIN-8 plug and two mini-DIN-4 jacks plugged into a computer, printer, or whatever, and the LocalTalk cables plugged into those boxes. PhoneNet replaced the boxes with different boxes that worked with phone cord.
My Mac (a Quadra 610) plugs directly into Ethernet, but I have a short PhoneNet run from my Apple IIGS (and occasionally an Apple IIe) into a Cayman GatorBox CS. Through the GatorBox, the GS can access files on the Mac or on the Linux server, and Marinetti [sourceforge.net] adds Internet access (with clients for Telnet, FTP, and some other services available) over the same connection (the GatorBox acts as a MacIP gateway).
Re:HomePNA == Localtalk (Score:1)
My god... that was all present tense. That's scary.
Re:HomePNA == Localtalk (Score:2)
It fits in well with the theme of this article [slashdot.org], don't you think? Besides, getting some equipment to do things it wasn't intended to do is part of the fun. (About ten years ago, I wrote a WAV player for the IIe...needed no additional hardware to do the job. I've been doing this kind of stuff for a while. :-) )
Re:HomePNA == Localtalk (Score:1)
Linksys PowerLine products (Score:1)
I've got two Linksys Powerline Etherfast 10/100 Bridges at my apartment which work great. They work to make a bridge between my cable modem, which sits in my living room, and my linux router, which is located in my bedroom. The specs say the devices are capable for transferring up to 14Mbps over the powerlines, although I have not had a chance to test this.
Each unit was about $80 through Amazon and I couldn't be happier with them (except that the config utility must be run from a Win* box). Beats the hell out of wires running over the floor. Anyone who can't easily wire their domicile and doesn't want to roll out wireless should definitely have a look.
Powerline works very well (Score:1, Informative)
Powerline solution too expensive... (Score:1)
Effects on home theater equipment? (Score:1)
holy redundant redundancy! (Score:2)
The post mentions a home/soho office. So let's expand the abbreviations out - we're looking at solutions for a home/[small office/home office] office, which means this is for either a home office, a small office office, or a home office office. Wouldn't "soho" have been enough? That's the point of abbreviations! don't surround an abbreviation with filler words! Aaah!