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Displays Power

Monitor Draws Zero Power In Standby 405

fifthace writes "A new range of Fujitsu Siemens monitors don't draw power during standby. The technology uses capacitors and relays to avoid drawing power when no video signal is present. With political parties all over Europe calling for a ban on standby, this small development could end up as one of the most significant advances in recent times. The British Government estimates eight percent of all domestic electricity is consumed by devices in standby."
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Monitor Draws Zero Power In Standby

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  • by User 956 ( 568564 ) on Thursday November 08, 2007 @10:59PM (#21289927) Homepage
    A new range of Fujitsu Siemens monitors don't draw power during standby.

    The monitor might not, but what about the power brick? those things consume power even if no monitor is attached.
  • Pull the plug (Score:3, Interesting)

    by Drakin020 ( 980931 ) on Thursday November 08, 2007 @11:17PM (#21290093)
    So does that mean I can pull the plug and have the monitor remain in standby mode?
  • by thogard ( 43403 ) on Thursday November 08, 2007 @11:22PM (#21290151) Homepage
    Most very low power modern devices have nasty power factors. PC power supplies tend to be .6 to .8. CFLs run from about .2 to .6 while many phone charges are about .2. That means for every watt delivered to the phone, there line losses in the grid are at least 3 W if not more. There are also losses in the generator so getting 1 Watt into your phone (or CFL) may require more power than putting 5W into a resistive load.
  • Re:Holy Shit (Score:3, Interesting)

    by eggnoglatte ( 1047660 ) on Thursday November 08, 2007 @11:46PM (#21290315)
    You are probably trolling, but just in case you actually mean it...

    Have you looked at the oil price lately? Even if you are irrational enough to ignore the mountain of evidence for human caused global warming, you might still want to cut down on your energy bill and/or make the remaining oil on this planet last a little longer.
  • by evanbd ( 210358 ) on Thursday November 08, 2007 @11:54PM (#21290369)
    I wonder what would happen if the electric company billed for the volt-amps consumed, instead of the watts, and then reported both numbers (together with your power factor) on the bill. I also wonder what would be required to do whole-house power factor correction? How much cost would it add if you were going to install a grid-tie solar system or something similar? How do these numbers compare to the added cost of power factor corrected power supplies in consumer electronics?
  • by labnet ( 457441 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @12:42AM (#21290729)
    You wouldn't even need a capacitor in the sense of storage.

    You would just need an RF diode coupled to the video input to be rectified and bias on the gate of a MOSFET that inturn drives a relay to connect mains power to the switchmode PSU.

    The crazy thing is, what took me 10 seconds to design in my head will probably be patented, and used to extort millions!!
     
  • Remote Conservation (Score:3, Interesting)

    by Doc Ruby ( 173196 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @01:10AM (#21290905) Homepage Journal
    Is there a really cheap remote power control for appliances that I can control via PC/Linux, which will shut off all power, and drain the minimum while watching for the powerup signal? Bluetooth or other wireless, or even over the electric wires in the wall.

    It seems to me like some kind of RFID type passive tech could do this with only the power from a RF signal itself to flip the transistors gating the appliance power on/off.
  • by Ster ( 556540 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @01:33AM (#21291099)

    ... I wish Apple would get with it and implement hibernation.

    Safe Sleep [apple.com] is your friend. (May or may not be supported by your particular PB G4, depending on its vintage.)

    -Ster

  • by Grishnakh ( 216268 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @01:35AM (#21291109)
    You would just need an RF diode coupled to the video input to be rectified and bias on the gate of a MOSFET that inturn drives a relay to connect mains power to the switchmode PSU.

    The crazy thing is, what took me 10 seconds to design in my head will probably be patented, and used to extort millions!!


    I'm not sure this would work anyway: in order to power the MOSFET, wouldn't you need a power supply of some sort? Maybe if you used a triac instead, something like this might work.
  • by evilviper ( 135110 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @02:59AM (#21291557) Journal

    I wonder what would happen if the electric company billed for the volt-amps consumed,

    That happens for companies already, and I believe even homes in parts of Europe.

    I also wonder what would be required to do whole-house power factor correction?

    Some big-ass capacitors, just like the power companies do already to keep from being overwhelmed.

    How much cost would it add if you were going to install a grid-tie solar system or something similar?

    Funny you should mention it.

    Over the past few months, I've been noticing that the vast majority of household devices have a power supply in some form. And even some that don't, like incandescent light bulbs and space heaters, don't need very clean power. It seems that if you're planning on running on batteries for some reason, for 75%+ of devices in your home, you'd be much better off getting an inverter that outputs a simple square wave. You can eliminate all the fancy circuitry and losses involved in generating a clean sine wave, reducing the cost of the inverter, and giving all your CF bulbs, PSUs, wall-warts, etc. a perfect 1.0 power factor.

    You'll still want, say, 1 outlet in every room driven from a second (but can be much lower capacity) inverter that generates sine-wave A/C. Anything that has a motor that runs directly from A/C will have much, much less power if driven from a square wave. That means your vacuum, fans, (most) air conditioners, swamp coolers, (full-size) refrigerators, etc. Power tools are an open question, anything with brushes and/or variable-speed control will probably work fine, but there are certain to be some that will not... The (absolutely baffling) popularity of cordless tools makes this partially moot as well.

    This doesn't help, of course, with any power you're drawing directly off the grid.
  • Re:power isnt free (Score:3, Interesting)

    by evilviper ( 135110 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @03:11AM (#21291635) Journal

    The key to this is the solar panels they mention,

    Congratulations. You may well be the first non-idiot to post a reply to this story. It's been a painful read to see so much ignorance and stupidity getting points.

    The key to this is the solar panels they mention, which keep the caps topped off against leakage current.

    Indeed... Solar panels aren't cheap, though, and I thought of something else. A computer monitor has no point in turning on when there's no signal, so why not power the relay from the VGA/DVI cable? Just siphon off a little bit of power, enough to charge a tiny capacitor, throw the relay, and start-up the monitor.

    The same trick wouldn't work for TV monitors, unfortunately.
  • by rcw-home ( 122017 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @03:22AM (#21291699)

    I'm not sure this would work anyway: in order to power the MOSFET, wouldn't you need a power supply of some sort? Maybe if you used a triac instead, something like this might work.

    VGA gets you 1V peak-to-peak at 75 ohms impedance (13 milliamps, probably per color). DVI gives you 5VDC @ 50mA through pins 14 and 15. The latter can drive a relay directly, the former would probably need a voltage multiplier circuit (which at those low voltages could probably be embedded on an IC, in fact you'd probably have to use schottky diodes) to charge a capacitor. Then you could use a voltage comparator op amp to dump the capacitor's energy into the relay quickly.

  • by TeknoHog ( 164938 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @07:08AM (#21292761) Homepage Journal

    Back in the day, devices came with nice red LEDs that didn't ruin your night vision. A nice coincidence with the fact that red ones were the first/easiest LEDs to make.

    One problem with blue LEDs is that the human eye has poor sensitivity to blue, at least resolution-wise. There's a great example of this problem here in Jyvaskyla, a bicycle counter installed in a cycle path (probably using some inductive effect for detection, and intended to collect statistics for traffic planning). Its display consists entirely of blue LEDs, which probably looks cool to some people, but it's very hard to read, kind of defeating the purpose.

  • by Gordonjcp ( 186804 ) on Friday November 09, 2007 @09:31AM (#21293559) Homepage
    No, I'm not a Mac fanboi, but I did have a Mac IIfx. That, in common with most Macs of the day, would draw no power at all in standby mode, but could be woken with a keystroke. There was a relay in the PSU that shut off all power, and a small battery that kept the clock running. The power switch fired the relay in the PSU through a couple of capacitors, enough to turn on the supply for long enough to bring up one of the supply rails and hold the relay on.
  • by Anonymous Coward on Friday November 09, 2007 @09:43AM (#21293621)

    hese days, you can't get less than 13 (by law) and you can get them over 20 SEER.

    Not trolling, but genuinely interested...

    I was at Home Depot last week, and they do have a/c units under 13SEER.
    Don't remember the exact number, but there were under 10SEER units.
    Small, 5,000BTU units with under 10SEER.

    As to a/c units over 20SEER, please provide a link.
    The most I've seen is 16.

    Finally, the SEER rating is confusing as shit.
    I read the wikiPedia entry, and had to read it again to comprehend.

    Thanks man for any replies.
  • by DavidTC ( 10147 ) <slas45dxsvadiv.v ... m ['box' in gap]> on Friday November 09, 2007 @03:11PM (#21299029) Homepage

    What's going on is that your eyes adjust how much light to let in based on, mostly, the blue part of the spectrum. Quite possibly this has something to do with the blue sky. If you live outdoors, the brightness of the sky is what is mainly controlling what you can see. This also lets you see incredibly well under a full moon.

    If you have a blue light and a red light with the same candlepower, and light a room with each, each room is equally bright in the absolute sense. But in the blue room, your irises are closed too much relative to the room light, whereas in the red room they're open too much. (So you can see a lot better in the dark, although very strong red light can actually be dangerous as your eyes stupidly do not iris closed as much as they should.)

    Or, to put it another way, your eyes take the blue light, multiple it by three, and assume that's how much RGB light is in the room. Roughly. It's probably more like R: 0.3 G: 0.7 B: 2.0, I'm sure the real numbers are out there somewhere.

    There's a reason lights just offstage at a theatre are often blue...you can't see as well under them (Just well enough to avoid running into people.), but it 'ruins your night vision', or, in other words, 'fixes your day vision before you walk on stage into the lights'. (While at the same time, they're dim enough that you can't actually see into them from the house.)

    Whereas, if you go further backstage, you'll find red ones, when people actually do need to operate with night vision.

    And sometimes you find green ones. I haven't quite figured that one out. Hunters use green, I don't know why either. Possibly because so many animals are colorblind, so maybe it works like red and doesn't affect their 'eye brightness'. Whereas I know, with people green does actually affect it somewhere.

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