Forgot your password?
typodupeerror
Hardware Hacking Hardware

Water Cooling Computers With A Swimming Pool 241

Posted by CowboyNeal
from the take-your-pc-for-a-dip dept.
guzugi writes "This is a project I have been working for several months and been hypothesizing for much longer. The basic idea is to shortcut the need for an air conditioner when cooling multiple computers. Swimming pool water is pumped into the house and through several waterblocks to effectively cool these hot machines. This greatly reduces noise cooling requirements."
This discussion has been archived. No new comments can be posted.

Water Cooling Computers With A Swimming Pool

Comments Filter:
  • heated pool (Score:5, Funny)

    by miowpurr (1004277) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:30AM (#17487830) Homepage
    It would also be a cheaper way to heat your pool in the winter and make your neighbors jealous!
    • Re:heated pool (Score:5, Interesting)

      by Glonoinha (587375) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:14PM (#17488182) Journal
      Actually TFA's idea has merit, but if I was going to go through all that expense and work, I would have taken it one step farther and researched / built a heat exchanger like they use in nuclear reactors - the clorinated pool water stayes in a closed loop that runs through the heat exchanger and then back out to the pool, and in the other loop is a freshwater (or radiator fluid with anti-corrosive properties, or whatever best suits for liquid cooling computers) that cycles through the heat exchanger and then back to the computers.

      The only additional expense / work would have been an additional pump for the closed loop on the computer side, and figuring out the heat exchanger. A small car radiator (for the pool loop) in a 55 gallon plastic trash can with in/out tubes for the computer loop (this makes it easy to add coolant to the computer loop) would have been a very good start. If the system ever needs a little help, just throw a ziploc bag full of ice-cubes into the trash can (a good way to keep the system up if the pool loop ever goes down, too.)

      Then again everybody can be an armchair quarterback, I give the guy props for actually getting something done.
      • Re:heated pool (Score:5, Interesting)

        by arivanov (12034) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:53PM (#17488614) Homepage
        If you go that far you might as well consider cooling the external coil of a decent size AC with pool water. In fact the mod is quite easy. You rip out the housing, chuck the fan out, pack the coil in a tank and hook up a pump to the relay used to drive the fan.

        One of my dad friends in Russia had done that in his summer house for household hot water. He used the fridge external coil to preheat the water before the boiler unit. Worked quite well actually.
      • by ThePowerGorilla (930379) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @01:40PM (#17489030)
        They actually sell 'Swimming Pool' Heat Exchangers. These are used so you can heat a pool with your boiler, but not let the corrosive pool water destroy your home heating system.

        They have the added benefit of making it impossible to drain your whole pool into your house when a line breaks.

      • Re:heated pool (Score:4, Interesting)

        by Anonymous Coward on Saturday January 06, 2007 @01:43PM (#17489066)
        Why bother with it at all?

        Between keeping the existing AC running during summer + buying some quiet fans to replace the noisy ones and:

        -possibly running pool water inside, and the risk of having pool water leaks inside as chlorine corrodes stuff (NOT pretty!) and likely some condensation (risk of shorts and electrocution even - think about using GFIs)
        -having to run pipes for heat exchange through holes in the wall of the house (no thanks!)
        -having water tubing all over the place going to every computer (like the wires alone isn't bad enough, and it's not a good combo)
        -risking the pipes blocking from something (like leaves or even a pinched hose) or running out of water (leak, pool level too low or something)
        -risking the whole thing freezing over (guaranteed in some regions - unusable here in Canada)
        -having to run multiple lines (one per PC?) if the water gets too hot after each computer (after a few it wouldn't really be cooling anymore)
        -having to buy several hundreds of $ hardware (heat blocks, pumps, flow switches, lots of piping, insulation, heat exchanger, coolant, filtering system, etc) for a sub-par system/solution that will surely be problematic (it's just a matter of time)

        I'd just forget about the whole thing, and buy some quiet fans (dirt cheap too). Anything more than that, and you setup a server away in the basement or something, and run some diskless PCs (booting off iSCSI or something) when possible and also use that server to hold everything that needs lots of disk space (media files, etc) to keep the amount of HDs spinning nearby as low as possible.
        • Re: (Score:3, Informative)

          by excesspwr (218183)
          Why bother with it at all? Which is basically "why climb a mountain?"

          Because he can. Because it is there. Because you have got to do something with the time between birth and death.
        • Re: (Score:3, Informative)

          by hcdejong (561314)
          having to run multiple lines (one per PC?) if the water gets too hot after each computer (after a few it wouldn't really be cooling anymore)

          Well, the setup shown in the photos has all the computers connected in parallel, so this wouldn't be a problem.
        • As others have said - why not? People do things all the time just for the hell of it. He probably had a hell of a lot of fun building the thing, so why not! As for the more practical concerns, using a heat exchanger instead of looping pool water inside the house is probably a better idea. It could have anti-corrosives and anti-freezes in, too.
      • by hcdejong (561314)
        I don't know how chlorinated water reacts with plastics. Would it be possible to take a few lengths of PVC pipe and submerge them in the pool?
      • by mrmeval (662166)
        A nice Perfluorocarbons cooling fluid coupled with a heat exchanger. You could probably submerge the computer in it. And you'll do your part to make the globull worming crowd blow an artery.
      • by Rick17JJ (744063)

        Heat exchangers are used in a few types of solar hot water heating systems. Perhaps that type of heat exchanger could be adapted for this purpose to create an inner loop of distilled water or coolant that would be separate from the swimming pool water. A single walled heat exchanger would probably be adequate in this case since. Not only would that help prevent corrosion but if you ever spring a leak you would only have a limited supply of water or coolant in the inner loop to leak out.

        Back in the 1970

      • I thought of going further for people who live next to a lake or the ocean, like Bill Gates. Then you could go sub-ambient. And yes, you would need insulation to prevent condensation. Server farms should locate next to large bodies of water to do this to save money and energy.
      • Re:heated pool (Score:4, Interesting)

        by aethera (248722) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @08:22PM (#17492784)
        A while back I worked as a field service technician for SeaWorld (ohio). We has a SpectraPhysics 171 Argon Laser that was located on a floating stage set in the middle of a small lake. Keeping these things humming required a lot more cooling than a cpu. The PSU needed 440 VAC, and needed 6-8 gallons per minute which cooled the transistor bank in the power supply as well as the tube itself. Landside this was provided with city water, but on the floating set we did just as the above poster suggested and built a huge closed loop heat exchange with the lake as our heat sink. Of course, even with more typical water supplies we still used a proteus valve to kill power to the unit if the flow ever slowed or stopped.

        As an aside, if you ever want to see three people really jump in a crammed laser booth, it will happen when a water leak springs up at a soldered joint just inside that power supply and just above the lunch box sized transformer in the bottom of the unit, also real close to where the three phase power ties in. That resulting bang will really get your heart pumping !

    • What if he gets a leak on one of his computers? It looks like from his set up that the whole pool could then be pumped into his computer room. Condensation will also be a problem if his pool is colder than his house.
      • Re: (Score:2, Informative)

        by Ira_Gaines (890529)
        If we knew how big the pool was, we could do the math to see how many gallons "8 inches of water" is to see exactly much would be pumped into his home.
      • by Agripa (139780)
        If he had placed the pump on the outgoing side all of the water block connections would have been at negative pressure preventing water leakage where it would do the most damage. Swimming pool plumbing tends to be made of copper alloys like bronze so I doubt corrosion will be a problem as long as he sticks with copper.
    • Re: (Score:3, Funny)

      Well I hope his webserver isn't one of those machines... Making it to the /. front page, his kids are probably boiling quite nicely now otherwise!
    • Re: (Score:3, Funny)

      by zCyl (14362)
      It would also be a cheaper way to heat your pool in the winter and make your neighbors jealous!

      Finally! A way to rationalize building a Beowulf cluster. :)
  • by Mr Chund Man (1013539) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:31AM (#17487840)
    Yeah, someone is gonna have to fill me in. How does one cool noise?
  • Pool water? (Score:4, Insightful)

    by Eevee (535658) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:33AM (#17487858)
    Because I always choose clorinated water to ensure the maximum corrosion in my computer's cooling system.
    • by Batou (532120) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:40AM (#17487902)
      ... not to mention peeing in the pool ...
    • Re:Pool water? (Score:5, Informative)

      by mbone (558574) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:55AM (#17488008)
      I had a job cleaning pools when I was a kid. I would worry about algae and other slime. It grows everywhere and needs to be cleaned out regularly.
    • Re:Pool water? (Score:4, Informative)

      by Gordonjcp (186804) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:01PM (#17488048) Homepage
      I'd be inclined to build a heat exchanger to couple water from the pool into a cooling loop for the PCs.
    • for you non-plumbing types:

      graywater [wikipedia.org]

      blackwater [wikipedia.org]

    • by Ellis D. Tripp (755736) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:24PM (#17488282) Homepage
      To avoid the problems with chlorinated pool water corroding the waterblocks and other hardware, he really needs to install a water-to-water heat exchanger in the system. Pool water would run in the primary side of the exchanger, with distilled water or glycol on the computer side. A second circulating pump would also be needed.
    • Re: (Score:3, Interesting)

      by drxenos (573895)
      As an inground pool owner myself, I can tell you that clorinated water will not cause corrosion. After all, your ladders have metal legs. Corrosion is caused when your PH balance or alkalinity (measured in ppm) are off. Of course clorine is a little basic, so you have to take that into account when balancing your water, but once balanced, the clorine will not rust your metal.
      • I can tell you that chlorinated water will not cause corrosion.

        Chloride ions are extremely corrosive. They are the major reason that seawater is so corrosive. Stainless steel and aluminum are pretty resistant to chloride corrosion at low pressures and temperatures (such as a pool). Heat that pool water up to about 500 degrees at a couple thousand pounds and then watch what happens.

        For many metals, a high (basic) pH reduces the corrosion rate.

        If you want metals that really resist chloride corrosion, then you need to look at nickel based alloys: inconel, monel, etc.

        • by drxenos (573895)
          Right, that is because seawater is NOT balanced. Properly balanced (measured in PH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness), chlorinated pool water does not cause corrosion no matter how hot it is or how much chlorine you have in it. With unbalanced pool water (at ANY temerature), your ladders, nuts, and bolts will rust very quickly and you will see a lot of yellow stains on your liner (which, by the way, you use powdered vitimin C to remove). As a matter of fact, during spring start up, you "super-chlorinate"
    • by sczimme (603413) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @02:19PM (#17489382)

      Because I always choose clorinated water to ensure the maximum corrosion in my computer's cooling system

      Believe it or not, there are pool chemical suites that do not use chlorine. For example, the one I use includes a very strong (90+%) hydrogen peroxide as a sanitizer.

      • Re: (Score:3, Funny)

        by Hadlock (143607)
        You should talk to armadillo airspace. They were looking for a reliable supply of 90%+ Supply of Hydrogen Peroxide last year.
      • Can you tell the name of the suite you use? Or give a link? 90+% is hard to believe, and I would be really interested in seeing the types of containers/safety precautions they use.
      • And some use ozone. Chlorine is still the less corrosive of them.
  • This greatly reduces noise cooling requirements.

    So, if it reduces "noise cooling requirements", this means that users are OK with having their computers run hotter and be noisier if they are cooled with swimming pool water? I don't see why.

    (If you mean "cooling with swimming pool water is less noisy than cooling with fans", say so.)
  • Tropical aquarium (Score:4, Interesting)

    by Zzeep (682115) <kenneth@vang[ ]sven.com ['rin' in gap]> on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:39AM (#17487892) Homepage
    Once I had the idea to cool my computer with water from my tropical aquarium. Or, to put it the other way, heat my tropical aquarium with the heat generated by the computer. I didn't implement the project because the aquarium was nowhere near the computer, moving them closer together wasn't feasible, and I didn't feel like putting a hose through the living room just for this project. So this project is filed with the dozen of other cool projects to do later in life.
  • Turn it off. (Score:4, Interesting)

    by Anonymous Coward on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:39AM (#17487896)
    Turn it off. Right now.

    Chlorine. Bird droppings. Leaves in the pool. Human sweat, with its high salt content. Algae heaven. That setup is going to provide very effective cooling for a couple of months before something corrodes through - and when it does, you will have a leak. Possibly a big leak - and a leak that will not stop flowing until the pool is empty, potentially enough water to flood your house.
    • Re: (Score:3, Interesting)

      by erroneus (253617)
      I agree. You'd be FAR better off with a semi-elaborate radiator system than with pool water and all the corrosive materials.

      Take what you've done and get a (preferably new) truck radiator and rig THAT up as your means of cooling off the water. Make the water as pure as possible. Life will get better after that. And if you insist on using the pool for this novel purpose, then put your radiator in the pool. The heat from the water in the radiator will be absorbed by the pool water. But even then you can
    • I'd assume, by looking at his little illustrations that he's tapping into the supply after it's been filtered.

      also, because of the chlorine, algae isn't gonna grow.
      • Re:Turn it off. (Score:5, Informative)

        by Smidge204 (605297) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:29PM (#17488348) Journal
        Chlorine is highly corrosive. Ever wonder why everything in a pool system is made of or coated in plastic?

        The chlorine attacks iron even in ally form, rotting stainless steel at an alarming rate. It will also react with copper (slowly, but the higher temeratures in the water block are going to help it along) to dissolve the copper into a Copper (II) Chloride solution. That corrodes the copper waterblock and puts the copper into his pool - not good. Aluminum will cause a reaction to make aluminum chloride, and reacting with the water to ultimately form aluminum oxide (which will fall out of solution and likely clog and small passages over time) and hydochloric acid.

        You need a heat exchanger to keep the chlorine away from metals. That means a non-metallic heat exchanger or one that's been coated with a chlorine resistent material.

        A better solution would be to get an aftermarket automotive radiator and an electric fan, and use clean water (distilled or at least low mineral) with a coolant solution specifically designed to prevent corrosion.
        =Smidge=
      • by bcrowell (177657)
        I'd assume, by looking at his little illustrations that he's tapping into the supply after it's been filtered. also, because of the chlorine, algae isn't gonna grow.
        That's all fine, in theory, but ... First off, the filter isn't perfect, and it might operate more or less effectively, depending on whether you have the right amount of diatomaceous earth in it, how long it's been since you backwashed, and whether you have any holes in your grid. Also, chlorine doesn't eliminate algae completely, it just red
    • Two Words (Score:4, Insightful)

      by profplump (309017) <zach-slashjunk@kotlarek.com> on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:12PM (#17488166)
      Heat Exchanger
      Just because you're using the pool as a heat sink doesn't mean you have to run the actual pool water through your computer.

      Now, this guy doesn't seem to have caught on to that, but it's not a totally implausible solution. Keeping the heat in water, even through an exchanger, is still more efficient than trying to dump the heat directly to the air, at least until you build a radiator the size of your pool.
      • Not totally impractable 1 lb of water will rise in tempetaure 1 deg F for every BTU so using a water to water NOT a Radiator and a pair if small 1/200 hp circulating pumps pushing the water around in a closed loop system he would get a consistant operating temp btw propalyne glycol/water mix in the computer side of the loop will stop any corrosion problems
        the W.W. Grainger Co has most of the parts in their catalog
        http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml
        Depending on how far you have to run your cooil
    • As pointed out in TFA, the pool plumbing is connected at the skimmer level which only has the potential to drain the first 8 inches of pool water before the pick-up surfaces. Still, it would be more than a small damp patch if it leaked in the house.

      I completely agree that running pool water through water blocks to cool computers is a Daft Idea(tm). A heat-exchanger linked in somewhere near the pool or one actually in the pool would be a better idea, preferrably with some ethylene glycol mixed in on the wa
    • by DrJimbo (594231)
      Good point, but there is a very easy solution.

      When I worked as an electronics engineer many years ago in NYC, one of my fellow engineers had done some work for the Navy where they needed a raft floating in the ocean covered with copper. They also have similar corrosion problems with large steel ships that float in the ocean.

      The solution to stop the copper from corroding was to attach an electrode to the copper sheet that was made of a different metal with a different electrovalence (or whatever) so
  • Chemistry? (Score:4, Interesting)

    by Deadstick (535032) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:41AM (#17487904)
    I'd be inclined to talk to a chemist and/or a metallurgist about compatibility between the pool chemicals (chlorine, various hypochlorites, carbonates, bisulfates, etc.) and your waterblocks.

    rj
    • Re: (Score:2, Insightful)

      by jbengt (874751)
      Well, according to TFA, he already corroded the aluminum blocks and replaced them with acrylic. He doesn't seem to have learned, though, as he's talking about submerging his houses A/C condenser coil (typically copper tubes, aluminum fins). Guess it'll take a little longer for him to find out about other incompatibilities.
    • He mentioned already that the tops of his waterblocks corroded, so he replaced them with acrylic. Pool water just isn't all that nice a solution in general; he'd be much better off with a heat exchanger setup, so he could run distilled water with the usual anti-algae chemicals in the cooling loop (I'm guessing that enough watercooling additve to mix a pool is both cost prohibitive and not very healthy to swim in).
  • by (H)elix1 (231155) <slashdot.helix@nOSPaM.gmail.com> on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:49AM (#17487950) Homepage Journal
    Watch out for condensation if your coolant (swimming pool water) is colder than room temperature! You don't need crazy temp differentials to cool a CPU. If you pull water from outside, odds are it will be colder than the air around your water block. This can cause all sorts of problems. Room temperature water is even easier to deal with than cold water. If you are just looking for quiet operation rather than crazy overclocks, you won't need the pool.

    Plan for a bit of condensation. Flip your motherboards around so if drops of water (*god forbid*) were to form, they drop away from the mainboard. Water from condensation tends to be pure enough that it won't short out your system as easy as one might think. Still... bad things can happen.

    Also, you will want some sort of anti-crap mixed into your water, or you can get all sorts of funky growth. More of an issue for closed systems than water from a swimming pool (with all the CL, etc). Be sure your piping can handle that. I've seen folks use hose that did deteriorate over time. Not pretty. A clogged 'artery' on a heat sink will kill your system dead. Non-conductive anti-crap additive is a really good idea.

    Lastly, if the water pump dies, everything else will die. Make sure you have some sort of kill switch so all your hardware shuts down if you lose water flow.

    Check out the overclockers forums out there. While you don't need the extreme lower temperatures, a big radiator and large low RPM fan in another room make for a very quite office environment.
  • wrong pump (Score:5, Interesting)

    by YrWrstNtmr (564987) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:52AM (#17487968)
    The pump is a Grundfos hot water recirculating pump. This type of pump is ideal because it is designed for continuous operation and has very small power requirements (~85 watts). This pump is not approved for outdoor use, so a waterproof box had to be constructed from sheet ABS plastic.

    And here we have the first potential failure in the chain.
    Putting it in 'a waterproof box' is not the same as using a pump designed for outdoor use. Condensation inside the box WILL kill it.
    • Re: (Score:3, Insightful)

      by fractilian (704807)
      Depending on temperature conditions the heat would build up in the box also, cutting the lifespan of the motor down. Since he has a pool to begin with I would assume he lives in a area with hot summer temperatures. Just my two cents(probably not even worth that).
  • 85 Watts! (Score:3, Informative)

    by MegMuffin (1047704) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @11:58AM (#17488028)
    From TFA, it would seem that the authour wants to have a cheap way of cooling his system. 85W is a considerable cost. A lot of fans could be run with that amount, and "silent" fans thesedays are getting to be VERY quiet.
    • by Barny (103770)
      The old addage "2W of cooling for 1W of computer" holds true, if you keep 3-5 systems inside a house you will either:

      A. need to leave an air con on low all the time (variable speed or "inverter" style ones are best)

      B. deal with a stinking hot room and the possibility of cooked parts every now and again

      100W of cooling seems like a good way to cool 300-500W of CPUs, maybe a heat exchanger (yeah, second pump needed) to keep the nasty chemicals away from the PCs, and of course have current monitoring on the pum
    • A lot of fans could be run with that amount, and "silent" fans thesedays are getting to be VERY quiet.

      Quiet? The typical "quiet" fan sold these days is about 20-25dB. Many are higher despite the bogus advertising that reads "30dB is a quiet library". Unless you're playing music, have the TV on, or live beside a trafficked roadway, that translates in a fairly noticeable whine. Multiply that by any number of fans per system, and you end up with a lot of unwelcome noise. And there is no indication that pl
  • Heat Exchanger (Score:2, Insightful)

    by prothid (302906)
    This is a neat idea, but as pointed out in other posts, there are some serious drawbacks as far as corrosion and other contaminants in the water. Have you considered using a heat exchanger? This would isolate you from pool water and you could fill the lines with clean water to avoid all of these issues.
  • by INT_QRK (1043164) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:04PM (#17488088)
    When I was in the Navy, most of our critical systems, especially combat system computers, consoles, and the like, were water cooled. What the heck, we were generally surrounded by the stuff. Then again on a warship we had the plumbing, back-up systems, and the personnel to handle everything from routine maintenance to casualty repair. I'd hate to see the effects of an earthquake, pipe freeze/burst, or an electrical outage. Did this guy say he lives in California?
    • Did this guy say he lives in California?

      I don't know, but just from the nature of the project I think we can be pretty sure that he does.
    • Re: (Score:2, Funny)

      by wesborgmandvm (893569)
      Did this guy say he lives in California?

      he's cooling his computer with his pool, He MUST BE from California :)

  • by Ed Almos (584864) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:24PM (#17488286)
    I did something similar with a large tank of tropical fish, the heat from the computer supplements that provided by the tank water heater. Note that this is a LARGE tank, about 3 foot x 2 foot x six foot in US measurements, don't try this with a smaller tank or you will have boiled fish for tea.

    Ed Almos
    Budapest, Hungary
    • Re: (Score:2, Insightful)

      by Anonymous Coward
      REally? because I bet you could not raise the temperature to more than 85 deg if the ambient is 70 deg in a 6 gallon tank with your computer.

      6 gallons of water is a LOT of thermal mass, putting in into a cooling tank with an open top is a really big thermal release.

      Althoguh most of you here know incredibly litte about physics and chemistry so it's no suprise there.

      Your "uber PC" could be easily coold with probably 3 gallons of water in a open tank as the only cooling vessel. evaporation is far more effici
  • Safeguards? (Score:4, Informative)

    by hcdejong (561314) <hobbes@xmsnBLUEet.nl minus berry> on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:24PM (#17488294)
    1. Two of the photos shows water piping (including hose connections) right above a set of power outlets. Any leakage here will guarantee a short.

    2. I don't see any sensors that will shut off the pump and computers, should the circuit run dry. Water leaks in the house are messy.
  • Accidents? (Score:2, Insightful)

    by mano_k (588614)

    That reminds me of a friend who was quite proud of his fanless water cooling solution which worked with several litres of water as heat dump in a container sitting under his desk.

    When one of the main pipes got loose somehow, it not only fried some hardware, but majorely pissed of his landlord...

  • by gweihir (88907) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:27PM (#17488322)
    Pumping contaminated swimming pool water directly into sensitive cooling equipment is plain incompetent. Sorry about this hard statement.

    Problems:
    • Corrosion. Unless you want to dump some few thousand liters of anti-corrosion fluid into your pool? And what do you use to clear you pool? Clorine? Ozone? Both a very bad idea in a cooling circuit....
    • Clogging: Even with filters, something will be getting through may well cause problems up to completely ineffectiveness
    • Air buildup. Air will disolve in the water outside and may accumulate in the computers.


    The right way to do this is with a heat exchanger that is robust on the swimming-pool side and has conditioned water in a closed circuit on the other side. Requires two pumps, but has a change of working longer than a few (if that) months.
  • by ScrewMaster (602015) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @12:36PM (#17488434)
    About ten years ago or thereabouts, I watercooled a system by welding two pieces of copper tubing to a thin CPU-sized copper plate. I then used rubber tubing to run water from two buckets through the copper tubes. I used the siphon effect (one bucket high, one bucket low) and it worked fantastically well for a couple of hours (the CPU was at room temperature) until the water in the upper bucket ran out and I smelled something getting hot. Then I frantically moved the buckets around and got another couple of hours. I was impressed with how little water flow was required (I never bothered with a recirculating pump since it was just a way to kill an afternoon. I tried overclocking (a pain in the neck back then ... motherboard jumpers out the yin-yang) and did get an extra 20% or so, if I remember correctly. I think it only a P133 or something like that.
  • Two ball valves were installed to allow easy shutoff close to the computers as well as a gate valve which allows precise bypass control. This way, computer connections can be exchanged without the need to shut off the cooling pump.

    One tiny flaw. Gate valves are shutoff valves. They offer pretty much no flow control whatsoever. If he wanted control, he should have used a globe valve.

    I give the whole effort lots of geek points. However, I doubt very much the cost of the project is worth it.

  • As everyone with a clue points out, he needs a heat exchanger in there somewhere.

    Control Data, in Chippewa Falls, MN, used to use an outside water cooling loop which pumped warm water into the ground via one well, and pulled in cold water via another well. Ground temperature a few hundred feet down was relatively constant year round.

    I once worked at a large industrial R&D center which had a sizable decorative pond with water spraying into the air in front of the building. This was actually a heat

  • Not only do you want to run non-distilled water through your computers, but you want to use heavily chlorinated pool water? You're using a continuous rated water pump, but one that's not rated for outdoor use? Below water level (of the pool)?

    I was unaware that gold could corrode or cause corrosion; that's why it's used so heavily in jewelry to begin with? Could that in fact be the chlorine comming in contact with the aluminum, creating aluminum salts? Hopefully the first computer's water block doesn
  • by dirkin (177494) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @03:09PM (#17489894)
    My old university once cooled the main server room with water from the fountain outside the building....

    Worked fine until a particular group of students decided that it would be great fun to make a big bubble bath out of the fountian... several gallons of 'joy' soap later, and the server room was overheating a bit, and the pumps were burning out.

    Oh well...
  • Give this guy a hand. He invented the swamp cooler...
  • by mapkinase (958129) on Saturday January 06, 2007 @05:27PM (#17491252) Homepage Journal
    put your CPU into a separate room.
  • I'm about 200 yards from the lake in Zurich (Switzerland) which is glacier fed. Even in full summer, solar heat makes it just about nice, not really warm). I must see if I can run some hoses :-)

The study of non-linear physics is like the study of non-elephant biology.

Working...